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Do you actually have a cavity tray in the wall as per the drawing? If not then given that this area is hidden I'd go up three courses of bricks instead of two. It doesnt have to be a uniform 150mm it can be greater at the low end of the gutter. I suspect the roof/lead man will make a hopper where the existing downpipe is and have the top part of the down pipe discharge into it. I would consider replacing the lower part of the downpipe with a 110mm pipe to reduce chances of blocking. Discuss with him first though.

Yes but for less time. Overall if the thermostat and time clocks aren't changed the bills shouldn't increase because the heat losses should stay the same. In practice if the floor is hotter there might be increased losses into the ground.

I hired an excavator, wacker plate and small dumper. The dumper was needed to move some of the soil i dug out and the concrete from the front of my house around to the back. Also used excavator to dig trench for power cable. Think excavator was about £160 for a weekend.

Its probably time to get a lead worker to visit and tell you what he needs. You need that triangular bit of wood to support the bottom of the gutter. Should slope towards the downpipe. Where is/are the down pipes going? Typically the lead gutter extends over or through the wall and into a hopper at the top of the down pipe. If there is a down pipe at one end only the other end needs a bit of wall to hide and form the end of the gutter. So your first picture appears to be right assuming there is no down pipe at the near end. A small capping stone could be added after the leadwork is done. If there IS going to be a down pipe this end then he may have gone a bit too high. I'd probably stop the wall at the bottom of the lead gutter level so the gutter goes out over it. This is a rather grand version showing gutter coming through hole in wall. Best one I could find in a hurry.

My outbuilding base was about 6mx5m. The shuttering was easy and I had ready mixed concrete delivered. The hard part was raking and levelling the concrete. Wife and I tried to slide boards back an forth across top of shuttering. That was much harder work physically than expected. We struggled. I had to frequently wade in and rake concrete to move it around otherwise we couldn't move the levelling board. Got it done but it took more than one beer to recover. The two courses of engineering bricks was the first bricklaying I had ever done. I set up strings on posts as guides for line and level. It was pretty easy. Put a bit too much mortar on then tap the brick down until level with the string and scrape off excess mortar. Easier than tiling a wall or floor.

Not sure if this has appeared here before but for some reason youtube recommended this vid showing a Belgian "lego" like SIP system. Looks interesting if you want to literally build your own house. Home page.. https://gablok.be/en/

A course or two of engineering bricks is easier than doing the concrete. I had to do mine twice - after laying a course of bricks i discoved the bag of "ready mixed mortar" i thought I was using actually had a bag of cement in the bottom. ?

You dont really want the timber sitting on a slab unless the slab is above ground level and the shed is larger so water doesn't sit on the top and wick under. What I would do is build a slab slightly oversize at ground level or slightly above. Then lay two courses of engineering bricks, a DPC and shed on top. Then inside put a sand blind and DPM, then however much insulation you want, and an osb floor or similar on top. Some sites recommend a VCL layer under the OSB. One course of engineering bricks is about 75mm tall allowing for say 55mm insulation and 18mm OSB or 50mm insulation and 21mm OSB. Two courses would be better at about 150mm high allowing 120mm insulation and 20mm OSB. The cost difference is really just the engineering bricks. I calculate one course is about 135 bricks and two about 270. So around £70/£140 at Wickes retail price.

That would be ok or @nod's suggestion. You can also cast your own padstone either in situ or make your own mould. https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/p03n6tt8 Edit: Sorry its telling me the clip isn't available.

+1 Not quite sure why they even ask this question.

I'm hearing there are delays for regular mortgages. On the radio they warned some might not make the stamp duty deadline.

Not all can be tiled on direct. Which are you looking at and what do the makers say?

A: Plywood is better than chipboard. Two layers of ply with staggered joints even better. Remember it must be rigid to tile onto. The wood should also be sealed. B: Presumably you mean.. Tiles Routed board with UFH Chipboard/Ply Insulation between Joists

The two most most important things are Depth of insulation under the UFH - How much can you fit? How deep are the joists? Enough coverage - If you have a room with a lot of glass (high heat loss) and kitchen units (reducing area with UFH) then the amount of power delivered from floor to room might be inadequate. Perhaps work out the power based on 65-85 W/m^2. PS Don't put UFH under the fridge/freezer

Paving Expert site is also good.. https://www.pavingexpert.com/featur03 Long walls should have piers at regular intervals, or zigzag them to make them more interesting and do away with piers.

My first reaction to seeing this.. ...Is that heavy rain will overshoot the gutter. It will also be very important to get the details under the gutter right when its built. The facade tiles would need to be behind the drip bead shown. In case you are wondering.. you can't hide the gutter behind the tiles.

Main thing is not to make it too close. If its a bit further out you can always batten the wall before plaster boarding.

I'm not 100% sure but most timber used in construction is graded either C16 or C24 standards. Google found.. https://cdn.buildresources.co.uk/sites/582/docs/BM_Trada_fact_sheet.pdf "Building Regulations require structural timber used in buildings to be strength graded and marked dry graded". But lots of people, including us, use green oak in construction.

There is a list of appeal decisions here.. http://www.permitteddevelopment.org/Incidental-Use-Appeal-Decisions.php Some large outbuildings were refused but some were approved at appeal.

Im sure you know that the issue that must be addressed is the weight of the roof pushing the walls out. This is normally achieved by triangulation/joists but another way is to use a structural ridge beam... This works by using a steel or possibly a large wood beam instead of the normal thin ridge board. The ends of the beam carry the majority of the weight of the roof so must rest on padstones in the gable walls or possibly on steel or large wood posts that go down to the foundations. If possible avoid having doors or windows in the gable walls as that can complicate things. The rafters should meet above the ridge beam and be connected together (perhaps with steel straps) so they effectively "hang" from the ridge beam. There are versions of this that use purlins to carry some of the load. These also reduce the unsupported span of the rafters and consequently their dimensions can be smaller. Lot depends on what the roof covering is going to be - tiles are much heavier than polycarbonate sheeting! https://www.beamcalculation.co.uk/start-calculation/steel-ridge-beam/

Google found.. https://www.bauder.co.uk/technical-centre/design-considerations/flat-roof-design-considerations/falls-and-drainage#:~:text=According to BS 6229 %26 BS,along with any internal gutters. However I can't find where it says that in Part H. Part H doesn't appear to reference either BS standard. Perhaps see page 38 onwards.

Normally there are at least four stages.. 1) Design and Planning Permission 2) Building Control Application and Approval 3) Getting quotes and choosing a builder 4) The build Some people employ an architect to do/manage all four stages. Other people only use an Architect for the first two stages. Others don't use a builder (instead they hire contractors and manage the build themselves). Others hire a project manager to oversee stages 3 and 4. Which route you take depends on how much involvement you want and knowledge you have. Using an Architect to manage all four stages is expensive - think their standard fee is around 11% of the build cost. A QS would typically offer to do two things for you.. 1) He would estimate the build cost from the architects plans, and check builders quotes are consistent. For example is one quote less because the builder left out the kitchen or assumed a different nominal figure. 2) Carry out regular valuations of the build and recommend stage payments to the builder be made. If any changes are required during construction he would agree the extra cost or reduction in the builders quote. Employing a QS is also quite expensive.

Even where you dont have a cabled network I've found the powerlink kit works well. A tx unit near my CU and I can plug a wifi AP anywhere in the house, even out in the shed which is what I got it for. I get a WiFi connection connection speed limited by my broadband connection (around 40Mb/s according to fast.com). Edit: I probably wouldn't build a house that relied on it but it would be my choice over wifi boosters/repeaters.

+1 Otherwise I think they recommend aiming for 1 in 60 with 1 in 40 max and 1 in 80 minimum.

There are several ways to improve wifi coverage but .. First thing I would do is download this free Wifi Analyser App for Android or a similar one and check what channels are in use near you. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.keuwl.wifi Put it Channel mode (see buttons at the bottom) and walk around where its bad to see if there are lots of other wifi stations in the area. Although there are 13 channels a wifi access point effectively broadcasts on a block of 4. So in practice life can get tricky if there are more than three or four wifi access points in close proximity. Channels 1, 6 and 11 are recommended to keep them from overlapping. However most ISP give you router set up on channel 1. So one cause of poor coverage is interference from a neighbours wifi that is also on ch 1. You might be able to improve your coverage simply by switching it to ch 6 or 11 for no cost at all.