Temp

Those with holiday home only allowed to use them for 90 days at a time.. Daily Mail: Half a million Brits can only stay in their holiday homes for three months at a time from 2021. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-9019917/Half-million-Brits-stay-holiday-homes-three-months-time-2021.html

It looks like some sort of anti short cycling feature. It monitors actual flow temperature and target flow temperature and treates the difference as an "energy deficit" that it counts up. So if the difference was say 5C for 3 mins that would be 15 units of deficit. When that deficit reaches the level set in the Energy Integral parameter it turns the heat pump on. When the deficit has been eliminated it turns it off. I've made up these numbers, I've no idea what value the Energy Integral should be set to.

On page 10 it says the units of Energy Integral are degrees. So its not energy consumption. See para 3.6 on page 15.

An integral is typically a total over a period of period of time. So an "energy integral" could just be your total energy use over a period (day/week/year) etc. On the other hand it could be marketing BS. If there are any graphs involved an integral is usually the area under the curve.

PS Duct should be insulated anyway.

Condensation is less likely at higher temperatures. So I would expect proximity to ufh pipes to make condensation in mhrv duct less likely.

Diagram 44 Page 67 of part j shows that the opening part must be 300mm vertically or 1m horizontally AND shows that a non opening part of the window can be nearer.

How fast/slow is the pulsing? I've found some clusters of LEDs flicker badly when dimmed even with the right dimmer. This is particularly noticeable when viewed out of the corner of your eye because the edges of the eye evolved to see moving predators. Im talking about 50Hz flickering here. Some LED bulbs can flash or pulse more slowly when dimmed below some percentage. Typically 20-25% not usually as high as 50%. I guess this is more like 1 to 5Hz flashing rather than flickering. I believe there are some dimmers that can be programmed to switch off when dimmed below a programmable value. Perhaps check the data sheet for your led lights to see how low they say they can be dimmed.

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If the ups/server and cameras are powered by different RCD I wonder if some kind of loop is formed that can trip the RCD? I know it definitly shouldn't do but it just feels like worth seeing if it trips with everything disconnected from the server?

Page 67 of Approved Doc J

I was asking because some people propose building caravans and houses from containers thinking thats a way of avoiding the need for planning permission.

https://cpc.farnell.com/powercool/1200va/ups-1200va-3x-13a-plug-rj45-3x/dp/CS25752?&mckv=sxWeea6ad_dt|pcrid|288268707748|kword|1200va|match|p|plid||slid||product||pgrid|46979450092|ptaid|kwd-6307168992|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-SKU&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtqL-BRC0ARIsAF4K3WEWnFsgy3FZdYpxJeoWcWgYMZVymLUAOEAUYsjzVZTYBkJ3AOKxEZ8aAm0TEALw_wcB Has two 12v 7AH batteries = 168 WH assuming 100% useable which it never is. The inverter and other losses might reduce that by 50%? Call it 100 WH ? Draws 10 to 40W. Depends on disc activity. Top end of that range if recording video? How are the cameras powered? Also off the UPS via POE hub? So I would predict somewhere between 2 and 10 hours at most.

+1 Would help to know more about why you want to build a "caravan"?

Ah I think the hole for the door knob will be wrong height if you turn it upside down.

Can you turn it upside down? Does that work or do I need another coffee? Failing that most good glass merchants can make shower doors to fit any opening you have at a price. Measure carefully though.

I used switches to detect the doors being opened and turn on lights. Helps remind people to shut then.

Seems that's because the mhra are doing a rolling review.

Last I heard Moderna one of the other vaccine makers had applied to US and EU regulators for approval but NOT the UK.

If you can afford the time then I think I would also go for a knock down and rebuild. Your situation is somewhat unique in that they are already allowing the external appearance to be significantly changed by removing the cladding. I think the key to a new application would be to argue the end result would be identical to the conversion already permitted. So avoid any temptation to change the design at the same time. Perhaps even use the same drawings. Ideally find an appeal that allowed a similar case and submit it with the application. I'd like to think the planners could turn this around in 8 weeks but depends how pedantic they are.

And..

More emails disclosed in The Times today..

Ok so things are a bit clearer. If you decide to press on with the frame then... The SE clearly believes the steel frame needs some sort of under pinning. Thats kinda a separate decision to the floor make up. You could go back to the SE and ask if more conventional strip foundations can be used to underpin the frame together with a beam and block floor. Some sort of decision needs to be made about the ground level outside. Either leave it high with tanking (how?) or excavating down and perhaps putting a French drain around the outside. I'd suggest both issues should be discussed at a meeting/zoom call with you, the SE, Architect and builder. It might be they have good reasons for suggesting the existing design, if not then the outcome should be a decision that either the Architect or SE should produce a revised foundation design drawing that takes into account both issues.

If you decide to apply to knock down and replace I think it would be important NOT to claim this is "necessary" as that could undermine your Permitted Development. Class Q buildings have to be "capable of being converted". Better reason would be that it allows a greater level of insulation.

Beam and block is really just a floor system. The castle raft them sounds more like underpinning for the frame or have I got that wrong.