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Stephen cooper

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  1. Ok so this is all hypothetical and somewhat out there but stick with it! I was chopping down a tree in my parents garden 6 month ago to to use for various DIY projects. Recently whilst turning one of the branches into Christmas tree decorations i had a bit of a light bulb moment. My house was built in the 1890's and my roof is built of all hand carved logs. It looks as though someone at the time chopped down local trees, carved them to shape and turned the right sized branches into rafters. In theory could the same be done now? Because when making the Christmas decorations I noticed that after debarking, the log i was working on is the exact same size as my rafters. Say i found on Facebook or the like someone with a large tree they want pollarding or something (maybe need the whole tree felling)? Depending on the size i could get potentially a few rafters right there for free. I assume not any tree would be suitable, i guess different species have different strengths? Would it have to be dried before fitting, if it was freshly cut the log would still have sap in it. Unless i time it near winter when the sap retreats back down. Then i guess building regulations would get involved in some or other fashion. Yea it was just a thought i had and wondered, for someone who has the ability to actually fit them (not me) would this be do able.
  2. @DavidFrancis ahh ok i understand now thanks. The purlins are very large and don't look like they've been trimmed/sawn down (not that i would really know what that looks like) so that would make sense. Ok so based on all the information in the various links i think this may have been evidence of a previous infestation that is no longer active. Some of links mention the frass can be dislodged by vibrations. We are on a main road with busses and lorries right outside so there are plenty of vibrations all day. In the beams visible on the second floor you can also see holes and sections where it looks like the wood was starting to turn to dust. I assume in the loft is what happens to the beam when an infestation is allowed to progress unchecked for quite some time. Based on the fact i haven't see any insects in the house or attic (apart from lone wasps) i don't think this is active. I'm still going to apply treatment to it myself anyway as im half way through and it can't hurt to do so. I will put up some fly trap paper things as mentioned in one of the links and just keep an eye on things. If i see any evidence of insects up there then ill get someone professional in. I think with this being my first house and never seen anything like this before i panicked a little! Thanks again for the advice all.
  3. OK, thanks for the information everyone ?. Feel a bit better knowing what it is i may be facing and have a bit of a plan to get it sorted. Going to continue treating the rest of the timber up there, at best it will prevent/deter anything from spreading. At worst it'll not make the situation worse. Ill find somebody who specializes in woodworm, thanks for the link Joe i may give them a shout, to have a look and see if it is active or not. Then ill get someone to have a look at what's left of the purlin to see if it is structurally sound and go from there. To me it still looks sound but it such a huge thing i don't fancy it falling through the ceiling! @PeterStarck interesting, so its the larvae that cause the damage. Weve been here for three years now, and been in the attic on a monthly basis and so far the only insects I've seen up there has been a lone wasp. Iv'e not seen any evidence that there as been anything either, no bodies anywhere and I would have found them in the crevices when cleaning all the beams in prep for treatment. I guess this could all be faff over nothing, maybe its a historic issue that has been treated in the past and the purlin was considered still sound.
  4. On some of the other beams there are the little holes that I associate with wood worm. I didn't realize the sections essentially reduced to dust is what they do. Actually it was because of those little holes that i noticed this, due to its location when using the loft for storage i couldn't see it. I've been cleaning all the beams up then applying woodworm treatment to all the timber up there. I assumed the holes were historic however but figured i would treat it anyway to be safe. As I've been brushing down and hoovering the beams i haven't noticed any insects on the wood, not i know if they would be noticeable. Judging by the size of the holes i guess there like small ants in size? Would the insects them selves be noticeable, would they come if the wood is banged? I have been banging around fitting some wedges and never noticed anything coming out the woodwork (actually get to say that literally). I assume a builder is still the go to trade to get it looked at or is woodworm treatment a specific thing in its own right? @DavidFrancis no idea sorry, not even sure what type of wood it is. I saw someone elsewhere mention oak and latched onto that because i like the sound of it! Silver lining if the beam does get replaced i have a huge chunk of salvaged wood I can build something with!
  5. Thankfully its not listed. Never considered point 3 like that. I suppose its had modern repairs through out its entire existence. Just what 'modern' is varies depending on time. After looking more closely at pictures of dry rot, what ever this is does look different (to my un-trained eye) to dry rot.
  6. Thanks for the responses. Got the screw driver out and gave the area a sharp prod. Also took some pictures, really should have just done that in the first place. Pictures one, two and three are taken from the bottom of the beam, to get that angle I'm pretty much under it having to look directly up with the phone above my head. Picture number four is taken from the top of the beam. There are two sections of what i assume is dry rot, but really have no idea. They do not connect but judging by the size of the two areas i wouldn't be surprised if they are joined under the surface. The areas with the rot feel slightly soft compared to the areas on the side away from the gabble wall. The screwdriver doesn't penetrate the wood. I tried to clear it out as best i could with a brush and the hoover but it just fills the air with dust (don't worry i used my respirator, i assume breathing that stuff in wont be good). The main concern, i assume, is on the bottom of the beam. I circled the areas in red. Its hard to see from the images but that whole side all the way into the wall, the face of the beam is loose. Prodding it with the screw driver it feels like it's one whole piece but spongy. Like if it was to pry that whole face would come off in one go. I assume from that that the beam is compromised going into the gabble wall. To what extent in the other direction not too sure. If the beam is compromised i assume, like rust on the car, only way to be sure it cut out the entire compromised section? I'm going to get someone out and get them to inspect the beam. Ill ask them to inspect all the purlins whilst they are at it. Out of curiosity if the beam does need repairs what, generally, would be the process? Would the entire purlin be replaced or is it possible to chop out and stitch in a new section? We have zero load bearing walls on either floor so no idea how the roof would be supported whilst repairs are being done. Would be interesting to see. In terms of ventilation I assume it is well ventilated. It doesn't smell moldy up there, plenty of fresh air. Plus when i open the front door with the loft door open it creates a large draft so I guess it has good airflow? Iv'e been up there during heavy wind and rain and its dry, however i don't feel any wind but the white sheeting (not sure its name) moves slightly in the wind.
  7. Sorry but i couldn't find a suitable group to put this in. I'm in need of some advise please on the process, as a home owner, to get a rather fundamental repair done to my home. I'm a first time home owner, never before had to have work done to a property I've been in and I'm quite lost in what i need to do to actually get this fixed. I own a house built in 1890, its roof is all hand cut beams and it looks amazing (the engineering gone into it is borderline art in my opinion) but Iv'e found a large section of dry rot on the end of one of the purlins. I contacted a local roofer who advised me to contact a structural engineer. I'm going to do that this Monday but even then not too sure what the next step would be? I assume they would inspect the roof and give me some form of report of the integrity of it and recommend repairs? Would they then also carry of the required work to repair it? Would i need to contact a roofer or joiner or builder or (i have no idea as im sure you can guess) and forward on the work that needs doing? Would this be something that goes through insurance? My other concern is this repair would essentially chop out a 130 year old piece of unique history and replace it with a perfectly square machine sawn piece of timber that would ruin the look of the structure. I have grand plans to remove the ceiling and expose all this fantastic joinery. Probably never happen but i like that its up there and this could be an option! Anyway any advise on what exactly i would do to get this repaired would be great. Not specifically the process as a tradesperson, but as a home owner. Thanks!
  8. My only fear with that plan is if ever i was challenged about permission and lost i would be left with large heavy tools that would not be found in your average shed that i would have nowhere to house. The goal is to set my self up with a small workshop so i can invest in tools iv'e always wanted but never been able to store under the stairs. Sorry the lawned section is fenced, its the gravel section at the back that had the car on in that image that isn't fenced. But then again maybe I'm over thinking it, i mean unless my neighbors complained whats the likely-hood that it would ever get noticed? Sorry?
  9. I can try and draw up a better diagram if this is a bit rubbish, but my property is circled in red. The section with the arrow is where i wish to put the shed. The red/gray thing there was a 2006 Fiesta i was stripping so you can get an idea of the size of the space. That is the back the house so the primary elevation would be on the opposite side. The reason i wish to put a small shed on the back instead of the side is we plan to build an extension on the side (house came with permission, sadly it expired before we were in a position to build anything). This shed, I'm hoping will be my miniature workshop for working on my cars, so within the two years i will have it set up with equipment i cant fit anywhere else (welders, hydraulic press etc) If i build it on the side when we do the extension i will be left with nowhere to put that equipment. Oh and no fences. I'm not averse to applying for permission if it is required (assuming i have a reasonable chance of it being accepted). It's just everything Iv'e been able to find suggests its not needed. Even though Iv'e got it stuck in my head that because of the road it would be.
  10. Well that makes that easy. So according to that the fact the boundary may be next to a road is inconsequential. Does make me wonder where i got the extra road requirement from, assuming i hadn't made it up in my head which wouldn't be the first time. Are these rules global for the whole of England or can different councils bolt on extra conditions?
  11. Hi everyone I'm wanting to build a shed. Been looking through various sources online and through local council information, which is terribly difficult to actually find anything, to see what rules i have to follow with regards to planning permission. I could have sworn i read somewhere that there is a clause that if i wish to build an outbuilding within 2.5 meters of a highway i need planning permission. However that was a little while ago, now I'm looking into it more seriously i can't find that information again. If i look on the kirklees council planning & development site (https://www.kirklees.gov.uk/beta/planning-applications/find-out-if-you-need-planning-permission/default.aspx) it directs me to the Planning Portal (https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200130/common_projects/43/outbuildings) which has no mention of highways. Only maximum height if im close to a boundary. Where we live we have a section of land behind the house which is more than big enough to put a small shed on, but it's right up against the road, no path or anything. Just my land, kirb, road. The road isn't a through road, just a small road for access to the houses at the bottom. Can anyone confirm or deny that because the boundary is up-against a road I am indeed going to have to seek planning permission to build it? I hope not, It'll be a right faff just for a shed. I wouldn't even know where to begin! Thanks.
  12. Hello So I'm a DIY-er, probably a tradesperson's worst nightmare, or they see pounds signs to fix the stuff i get wrong who knows! I'm a Software Engineer by trade. Spend my time working with web based technologies (C#, JS etc) However client side technologies is the area i really enjoy. Attempting to learn some lower level stuff working with C but its painful (I miss dynamically allocated arrays!) I mostly work on cars, but anything i find interesting ill take apart to see how it works. Been experimenting recently trying to communicate with the cars CAN systems for a home-brew power folding mirror system, making good progress. Been getting interested in changes id like to do to my home and garden hence joining the forums. Always enjoy learning new stuff! Stephen
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