IGP

I found this interesting

Thanks! I’ve got 180mm joist depth which comes out about 0.2 u value. The void was probably about another 80-90cm to the ground below from the bottom of the joists. it’s just nice in winter when you can walk barefoot and not feel freezing on your feet.

I did this, got a lovely warm floor! Things to reflect on - I went mineral wool over the hemp they specified and used the Pro-Clima membranes and tapes etc. The Pro-Clima membranes are amazing, but they’re a bit over-kill for the application in my opinion looking back. Get standard breather membrane (windtightness) and vapour membranes (airtightness) and you’ll be fine. However the Pro-clima tapes and membranes were worth the money and I’d highly recommend them regardless.

I’d say that’s not quite right. check out https://heatpumpmonitor.org and quite a lot of systems pushing 4+ SCoP easy.

I’ve got EPS beads in my 1928 semi detached, 65mm cavity and can highly recommend. Not only is it warmer, it’s quieter too!

Beads everyday over blown in wool. They flow better and do not snag on the rough inside of the cavity and drain better. If I was building a fresh wall, have a nice wide cavity filled with mineral wool batts however.

Good stuff, As we're coming out of winter, keep pressing on the loft insulation from the government schemes. However, if you're still not anywhere by September time I'd just pay for it, it will be a few hundred pounds but very much worth it. How big are your radiators? Single panel? Could be that there is not enough surface area on the radiators to really give enough heat energy off no matter how big your boiler is. Hence always cold! Can you get a few photos of these if you're unsure?

I just wrapped the sides of the unit (the back is mounted on brick wall) in the foiled backed insulation. For the front I just used the same insulation but used Velcro to attach it so it’s removable for filter changes.

Yes I taped both membranes to the brick. I didn’t insulate the walls internally, got cavity wall insulation.

The WiFi bit isn’t needed, save your money. Once it’s setup it’s basically leave the unit to it. I’ve clicked the boost button once on Christmas Day with family over. I just leave the integral humidity sensor in the unit increase and decrease the fan speed in proportion to the humidity increase from showers etc.

I installed a Vent Axia Sentinel FH in my 1930’s semi in a cold loft and it’s performing quite well. I just wrapped everything in insulation (photo without everything fully insulated).

I’ve heard to fill them to loft insulation height with EPS beads leaving them ventilated but covered with a chimney cap.

Do heating engineers have hydronics qualifications to install any type of heating system? I thought they were only legally required to be Gas Safe? Only reason I ask is I was having my boiler serviced and the engineer slapped the flow temperature right back up to full. I asked him why and his response was basically “the boiler modulates to be efficient” which struck me as like he didn’t actually know what he was talking about in terms of efficiency. I’ve heard others say similar things which rings alarm bells that it’s not just the ‘one bad apple’. Surely engineers should know how to make efficient systems and if not, shouldn’t be mandatory when installing any wet heating system?

Also in terms of the design, I used BPC ventilation and they gave a rough design for me to follow with approx placement locations, numbers of pipes that connect to each plenum etc.

I’ve put window film on it in one of rooms, it helps but isn’t a wonder product. I’ve just DIY’d an MVHR install in my 30’s semi. It’s made a huge difference in air quality. It’s no longer stuffy, there’s no condensation on any windows as we used to have humidity 65-80% regularly. I feel I sleep better with the fresher air in the house which is something I didn’t expect. Also my partner hasn’t used her inhaler since we fired it up, but that be coincidence. All in all, I’m super happy with it but it was loads of work! I’ve now fully insulated the unit (photo taken before) and has helped a lot with warmer supply air. I can recommend MVHR.