Leaderboard

I now have 2 x Sunsynk 5Kw CATL batteries and 4 x AO Lithium 5Kw's total investment has been £3600 for the batteries. All purchased on 18 month 0% free credit card with logic that I can deduct 18 months of tariff savings off the cost of the batteries before they become a real cost.

I would just keep it simple One hot and one cold manifold in plant room. Then one of the two options below. Option 1. Looks like a 5 port manifold for hot and cold. A single 15mm feed from manifold to each wet room, in hot and cold. From 15mm pipe in wet rooms, teeing off to users - sink, toilet, shower etc. (this what I did and have seen no issues. 2. Bigger manifold in plant room, with individual (suitable sized pipes) to each user in the house. So a mix of 10 and 15mm.

It's not a cheap option, and it's applied as a plaster a few mm thick rather than as a paint, but tadelakt is another possibility. It's chalk-based, durable, vapour-permiable, antibacterial, fungicidal, can be tinted almost any colour with mineral pigments, and can be made waterproof (by rubbing it in olive oil soap) for use in bathrooms & showers. And apparently it can also be applied to plasterboard too. Although the materials are relatively cheap, it's labour-intensive, so a premium finish unless you learn to apply it yourself. I'd like to get round to trying it one day.

Update: Received the following just now- “Please accept our apologies in regards to not informing you when we issued the CIL Liability notice out at that time, as the originally email with the notices was sent out to your agent directly dated 04/10/2023 (attached). Due to the situation where development has commenced on site and you didn’t get notified, on this occasion we will allow discretion whereby you can submit the relevant forms, and we will grant the relief. Please do note that the full CIL charge plus the additional surcharges will not be imposed.” Thank goodness! These last 24 hours have been traumatic to say the least. But it appears that they do have some heart following my email to them detailing all the flaws in their process conducted. Thank you all for your input and advice. What an amazing platform we have here 😀

It's not an ideal location though, I have Pylontecs in a lobby on the N side of the house, even so I see cell temps of 28C on occasion. Also have fitted a linked smoke alarm, and on the other side of the kitchen door a fire extinguisher. Insurers don't mention battery systems so I imagine they are regarded as mainstream now. without a BMS how do they get balanced if they need it?

Hi @JamesP Reason for the two different types of batteries is that I originally managed to source 2 x 5kWh ( better not get it wrong twice ! ) Sunsynk batteries al almost 1/2 price, however when I came to expand decided to go with more generic 'server rack' type batteries as you can purchase at much better prices. As long as batteries are of same fundamental design, in this case 16S (2.3 - 3.4v cells) in series with integrated BMS then you can mix and match quite happily even though manufacturers don't like you doing it. The two Sunsynks are connected to and managed by the inverter via can bus the other four batteries are wired in parallel as 'dumb' batteries. The state of charge and discharge is the same across all of the batteries and works really well. I installed inverter and batteries myself. The inverter automatically decides when to use the batteries and feed electric into consumer unit based on a simple timed schedule. Same for when it charged the batteries from the grid. I charge batteries between 00:00 & - 06:00 along with heating hot water and running the heat pump at slightly higher temperature just to boost the slab ready for morning. I don't see why batteries couldn't go in your plant room, mine are located in attached garage. Lifepo4 batteries are extremely safe however not sure I would have them inside the house?

Here's one way:

Noted. I think its WC that is the game changer in terms of stability, a technology thats been around for decades and is mandatory in some countries. It seems illogical to some, given that its room temperature that matters, but of course its perfectly logical because it means that the control system is ahead of the game rather than always playing catch up and the emitter temperature and hence output is more closely matched to the demand. Its something of an indictment of our heating industry that the technology was shunned in the UK until heat pumps forced it to happen!

Right, resin is a no-goer according to the Epodex website. Minimum temp for use - 150. Recommended temp 200. As the floor standing stuff is due for install next month, those temperatures are not going to happen Quarry tiles it is 🙂

When I had a power cut, It glitched the controller and I had to do a factory reset to get it working again. Cant remember the specific issue but sounds similar to your, unit would say "on" but nothing happened. Only issue I've had.

PV is cheap, batteries aren't Actually PV including mounts should be around or less than £200 per kW. An inverter to support couple of hundred pounds.

Our pool is effectively in a small basement as described. The thing they are missing is it had to be tanked to stop water coming in and it has to be insulated. Otherwise you will lose heat to the ground. The pool costs the same to heat as a space that size would cost heated to 28C. It actually costs more to run the filter and dehumidifier. I have a Niveko pool which is made of polyurethane resin. It looks and feels a lot nicer than fibreglass but is a bit more expensive. Have they not mentioned air handling and dehumidifying in the costs. That was another 20k for mine. It heats the pool and extracts heat and moisture from the air. Also the filtration equipment looks quite minimal. I have a sand based filter, pump, centrifuge, uv disinfecting and automated pH regulation. There is literally nothing to do, the pool looks after itself.

Sounds like a soft error, you might be able to recover by doing a factory reset (having carefully recorded all settings first!).

The only water you are shifting is what comes out of the jet. Could be fed from the north sea, the same amount of water will come out of the jet. Resistance etc will skew the numbers a little, but most of us will have snuffed it before this matters, in reality.

We had a very similar challenge. Own the land, part of which is / was an orchard. We built on that old orchard. 'Chocolate Box' countryside: lots of opposition. Getting on with people , while useful, is a periforal issue. Its the quality of the support - or objections - that count. The key theme is is whether the objection (or support) is Material to the Application Local Planner is the next stop. Choose carefully. That isn't easy.

Yes, I think that sounds like a very good idea, and fortunately we get on well with everyone around here - at least we do now!

Thank you so much, a very valuable and valid insight. I think you're so right about the neighbours too, it's a very co-operative community and the environment means a lot to those who live here so I'd very much want to present it as enhancing the landscape and our ability to manage the land better, which is heartfelt. We're not just being opportunist, we really want to live here. Thanks for the advice and your experience.

A recap of what you must do to ensure you don’t go through my nightmare which thankfully got resolved: During planning stage, complete and submit CIL PAAIR Form (CIL Form 1). Prior to commencement of build, complete an Assumption of Liability Form (Form 2) and submit it to the Local Authority. Submit a Self-Build Exemption Claim Form, Part 1 (Form 7) confirming you meet all the qualifying criteria for a self-build development. Do not commence development before the Local Authority has confirmed the grant of relief. Prior to commencement of development, submit a Commencement Notice (Form 6) to the Local Authority and the Local Authority must acknowledge receipt. Within 6 months following completion of the development, submit the Self-Build Exemption Claim Form, Part 2 (Form 7) to the Local Authority together with supporting evidence.

No issue with what you are suggesting. Sometimes the permanent live is wired to the switch, sometimes to the fitting / ceiling rose.

It's strange reading this thread, it both chimes and doesn't with my experience. That maybe the difference between applications for extensions and those for new builds. It makes me think that maybe these two processes could/should be separated! After all they are very different sides of the same coin. I spent 10 years or so working as an AT in Wiltshire putting in lots of applications for extensions to houses, I never once had an application rejected and can't remember many taking more than the statutory 8 weeks to go through the process. I am now going through the application process to build a new house for ourselves, in Dorset, and it is a world away from my previous experience with planning departments. It has taken weeks longer than the 8 it should, the PO hadn't even looked at the application until we sent a strong worded email to his supervisor, and once this had been done he passed the application. As regards corruption in the planning process, I am sure it goes on, as it does in all walks of life, can't see that there is much that can be done about this though.

How about carrying the rear dormer through across the whole width? That would either let you fit the staircase as you mention to use as a room above the workshop, or alternatively give the house a bigger upstairs - push bedroom 3 over the garage and you could have a galleried landing right around the stairs, plus additional space (another ensuite say) where bed 3 is now

Its been a week since I migrated to Tomato and couldn't be happier. Yesterday I used 33kWh at a cost of £1.65 House is nice and toasty, plenty of piping hot water so the other 1/2 is happy also 🙂

We've previously installed a 2-panel bifold (Korniche) in preference to French doors because it allows you to park both doors on one side of an opening (say towards your boundary side) and make better use of your patio. Many French doors are installed such that you can't fold them back flush with the wall and having only one side of the patio blocked worked much better for us. If you do this though, you definitely need a separate 'traffic' door elsewhere as the 2-panel bifolds I've seen can't be opened and closed properly from both sides and would be annoying to use as your 'go out to the bins' door every day. In your case @Berkshire_selfbuid it looks like you have a side door from the utility for that sort of traffic so 2 panel bifolds could both open away from your sliders giving you a nice wide unobstructed patio (and symmetry)

I disagree, as I said above it shifts water in a cone from the outlet, on the pool I installed the cone was quite narrow, getting wider with the distance. Back then I was fit and I could not swim against the cone and touch the side, the effort you put in matched the distance from the output pipe. The cone of pumped water never really touched the bottom of the pool (that I noticed).

Call cool energy they will open now. Have you tried switching the whole lot off and on?

This is why in the majority of situations, they know how to fit windows but are not aware of the rules or requirements.

Limited or delayed contact from any party is one of my bugbears. I’d usually chase after a week and then every other day after that. So I’d therefore suggest you follow up again after 10 days to see what’s what.

I’ve never understood why people have 2-panel bi-fold doors, which are in theory French doors. Bi-folds traditionally work with a minimum of 3 panels. I’d therefore suggest sticking with French doors or increase to 3 panels where the outer one would be on a tilt opening.

You won’t have the headroom to position a compliant staircase in that position. The new stair would have to follow the profile of the garage roof slope so would start from the rear and the final step/landing would be near the middle of the ridge. So unless you don’t mind losing some width from the garage, then that is an option.

No. A pump is intended to carry so many m3/hour for whatever purpose. The higher it has to lift the water (the head), the more energy used, or less water carried. But in a closed loop the height does not apply

I suspect you were saved by the fact that your CIL bods are as nice as they are here in East Suffolk. I also suspect they used the notice thing to sidestep any difficulty they may have had in doing what they felt was right. In your shoes I’d be hand delivering a really big pack of choccies and a handwritten notelet thanking them for such a rapid and positive response. In our society we are first class at moaning and often really crap at saying thank you.

For what it's worth my ashp was finally fitted a fortnight ago following a two year long and very painful planning saga. Installer set it up in a mode combining wc and control based on room temperature, all using the heat pumps own system controller with no external controls. After the first week I disabled the room temperature element of the control, and now have it set up on wc only, trvs fully open with heads unscrewed so they can have no effect. The result so far, in my house and with my pump, is a more stable house temperature than with the mode in which the installer left it, and much, much more stable than was ever achieved with my gas boiler operating at fixed flow temp with a thermostat and trvs. I have rads, not ufh with a massive slab BTW. Obviously this is one case only, however its doing what the theory says (and what should be the most cost effective), so it's not really a surprise. I would suggest that those who are sceptical of wc might wish actually to experience it if they haven't already!

In the end I decided to do just that. Fingers crossed it will be ok.

Render (Sto, Webber, k-rend etc) on to your ICF is by far the best option.

I often see distemper mentioned in the breathable paints discusssions.

Can’t you just cut out the stud wall section? Just use 60mm or 80mm wood fibre board fixed directly to the walls with plastic pins, render/plaster on top. I just used sand/lime for the render with mesh. as to paint why not lime wash - you can buy large tubs of white and some powders for colour. Maybe a little restrictive in colour options but it’s pretty straight forward to apply so long as you wet the walls down before and as a bit after it has been applied.

Excellent. I’m a bit like that too. Sometimes sleeping on stuff is the best way to fix it.

This actually is not an unusual approach in gaining approval for an additional dwelling. Obtain planning approval for a large two storey side extension first. This establishes the mass, scale and appearance is acceptable to the planners. Then a second application to create a new dwelling from that extension potentially faces fewer objections by the planners. As DevilDamo says, the Council will have specific policies for new dwellings which need to be considered as regards, amenity space, living space parking etc but it's worth seeing if you can get it to comply. Building Regulations are more complicated for new dwellings than extensions but then you don't get anything for nothing!

Most British people don't want more houses really. Other than for themselves of course.

Actually I thought Angela Rainer made sense on this subject on Sunday morning with .kuensberg, the LPA have a planning guide for the area negotiated with the locals and the gov have a national planning policy and if applications meet both criteria then planning must pass the application.

If I put my foot down, my V8 AMG returns less than 8mpg. "Smiles per gallon" my friend. You are dead for a VERY long time, fill your boots and do NOT listen too much to bean counters. Most get buried with their money and are boring as feck. Most won't buy a round either.

>>> Is it so fundamentally broken I think it is - the LPAs have way too much power. In particular they can delay for ever and most planning judgement is just personal opinion - which varies with the case officer, the day of the week, the weather etc. The rules need to be slashed by 50% or more for self or small housebuilders. And both the LPAs and the Inspectorate mislead the governement and the public with the way they mis-report their stats. An architect friend tells me that if the French equivalent of an LPA doesn't make up its mind by the state-imposed deadline, then the application is automatically allowed. Here, delay is routinely used as an LPA negotiating tool.

We did the same but I used a variable speed dust extraction unit and even on the slowest speed I had to restrict the hole so much to get it to hold the pressure.

Yeah we did a sheet of OSB with a fan in a window. It sealed nicely against the gaskets. Dead easy, just measure the tilt and turn sash and cut the OSB the same. It stayed in there for weeks.

Sure. Heat doesn't rise when moving between solids. So it will try and move both up into the house and down into the ground. The higher thermal conductivity of a liquid screed means much more heat captured/transmitted upwards into the house, instead of lost below.

3x the conductivity means warmup in 15-20 mins not 2 hours Will be cheaper to run as less heat loss below.

You've always got the option of swapping sand/cement screed (75mm) for liquid screed (40mm) when dealing with a tight buildup. It's a much better product also (higher conductivity)

This is of course the marmite subject on the forum. On a cold day, and particularly on a cold, wet dreary day, we like to indulge and fire up the stove, it heats the whole house hotter than we normally have the main heating set for, and we like to indulge in a bit of free extra heat. And then it is some time before the heating comes on again as the house cools down so a saving on electricity.

It'll do the job then. If any doubts, you could lay a layer of concrete on top with reinforcing mesh in it, tied in to the existing slab with dowels. Would be slightly higher but you'd have no doubts.

Hi Thorfun. I was wondering that at 250mm thick there may be a fair bit of rebar in the slab. I would have a quick chat with your SE to check how they have designed the slab and if it is ok to introduce repeating weak spots by way of the pipes. Practically I would be cautious here with a basement. It's hard enough if you are a contractor to deal with a concrete pour, the risk of a burst shutter, delayed wagons etc. If they have to also negotiate the UF pipework without denting it, get good concrete compaction.. you need room for a poker or tamper between the rebar (essential for keeping water out) this may attract a premium at least. My feeling is to keep it as simple as you can. Do your structural slab, take a break to see if water comes in then do your UF as a screed laid all level later. If you do get water ingress then if you have pipes in the structural slab then this could make it more difficult to fix any leaks. Yes, you have the extra cost of the screed but structural slabs are not that flat so the initial perceived saving may not fit with the time you'll have to spend laying / levelling the floor finishes, or finding the one dent in a UF pipe loop that stops it working.