Leaderboard

We’re very happy with it. Finally watertight, and can start the internal work now!

@joe90 reporting back, done me steps. Really do need skirting now as there are gaps galore at sides, knock thru walls uneven etc. The pB to wall glue is excellent for general wood to wall btw. quite pleased, but by god took a whole week..

Our thermostat is set at 23C. Anything below that is just unpleasant.

Our front and back door from Pirnar which we are really pleased with

out of the cab like a pocket rocket, IC cover off. There it sits. Grinning. Look at me! Aren't I clever? A perfect fit almost. Reach in, try to lift it. Hernia warns against anything more strenuous. BuggerAndDoubleBugger. Reach down into the hole, three tonne strop and a couple of shackles round the boulder, hook up to the bucket. And lift. (By now the bells are ringing loudly even for me...) POP. ...it actually sounded like that. Out it all comes boulder, IC riser and all. And of course all the surrounding soil rushes in and fills the IC base and pipe. DAMN_BLOODY_NATION. They say nature abhors a vacuum.

Lead valley is your friend there - only issue will be the Jack rafter isn’t high enough to sit valley boards on so you may need to pack it.

They'll be able to price it up, I think you are overthinking it, get the drawings and design done for the stage of the project you are at, and if you need more information down the line you need more information. If you're going with a kit manufacturer they'll produce their own engineering calcs etc anyway

I blame the geology. That's wot didit. And too powerful a digger. Oh, and my stupidity - a bit. BOBCAT digga on hire. Beautiful proportional controls. Smooooove, fast, slow, millimeter precision, spacious. Hear the warning bells yet? Final foul drains to be dug. Easy peasy lemon squeezee. Dunnit before - by hand as well as machine. Whaddya want? Depth, accuracy correct width. Oh how long it took for me to learn that the hard way. How very steep was that learning curve. Up to now I've only dug through glacial till. And garden soil. This dig was to be different. Mudstone and sandstone. Yuk. The type of boulders where the bucket teeth leave smoking grooves on the rock faces. Time after time. Suitcase size boulders one after the other. Some obviously had received the tender ministrations of a glacier. Nuvver peel of the warning bells? But I'm 'ard: tough as a buttercup. Nuffin stops me. I get everywhere. But even I have to admit defeat occasionally. Solid wall of rock. Hmm? BCO: mind if I put the I/C here because...? Tickety boo. Backfill time. Yo! Easy.

We are set at between 20 and 22 depending on the room. My wife was complaining that the kitchen was cold even though it was 22 the other day and the heating was off. I think that at this time of year the issue is that it starts to get colder and darker outside, but it often isn't cold enough inside for the heating to kick in. Thus you don't get the radiant heat that helps you to feel warm irrespective of the air temperature. Once it gets colder and the heating kicks in more it feels warmer even at the same air temperature.

We have ours at 18 The default is 21 which is far to hot

We only have UFH downstairs, and in the bathrooms upstairs. Thermostats currently set to 20 degrees, currently rooms sitting at 21, it has overshot a bit and all thermostats off. it's only about 8 degrees outside. But this is the sort of grey, miserable day, when regardless of what the thermometer says, you "feel" cold and when like this we tend to light the stove and get the whole house up to 24 degrees or so. That stops us "feeling" cold.

Love it! Very similar to the first design we chose.

Here’s one of the side doors. No comparison to the one we chose, and not *that* much more £££

1:1 cement and sand thin mortar bed will sort that. You won’t split slate fine enough. Worth checking the other end too, is it absolutely level..? Depending on the length of the beam, it may be that it’s deflecting enough to kick the end up slightly. Are they being bolted down at all..?

We considered RK Doors too. Pirnar just had the edge on price, and we really liked the guy we worked with. Very responsive and very reasonable.

Good that you went for a 1100mm wide door, our door is the same size. I see a lot of houses with a pair of doors when they want a wider door, but no one wants to open two doors all the time so usually it ends up like having a smaller than normal front door. One wider door is a better option.

Builders not a creative and just sees from door as a door . When it’s yours it becomes personal . I love our front door ! ( r k doors )

Looks like quality . It’s funny how ‘personal’ a front door becomes . It represents the house I always think and teases to what’s inside .

Ours all seem to have snapped fine. I think these are the older clips but its still the same principal. Watch this video from 2:12 onwards https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiQVjQe0mlY

They snap off easily as you knock them off inline with the grout line.

I could take you up the road and show you one that's about 4ft out of the ground and must be 10ft by 6ft. The farmer has made no attempt to move it. The field fence goes up and over the top and down the other side.

The stone to the left is Norstone graphite lava and the wood effect is Trespa romantic walnut

No, I fitted them myself

I did one recently and cast a ring beam with wire in it and bolted to that, worked great.

We had a similar sized greenhouse at the last house I simply laid a single block on its flat side down On a bed of motar Then screwed the frame to the middle of the block It’s been down for about fifteen years and seems ok

Our greenhouse is 9-sided. I cast a concrete ring-beam roughly to size/shape and then laid engineering bricks to the actual shape. Frame is then screwed into rawplugged holes in the bricks as per pic.

Mineral gypsum has a density around 2900kg/m3, gypsum as in plasterboard/plaster has a density around 850-1000kg/m3. No, air permeability is a bulk process. Water vapour can escape by a process known as diffusion, this is a molecule by molecule process which bulk air cannot do. It is this process that vapour resistance values relate to. It is perfectly possible to have an airtight house which has little vapour resistance. Anything described as a 'breather membrane' should have a low vapour resistance while inhibiting the movement of bulk air. The cellulose does not get wet. The external air heats up as it moves into the wall by absorbing heat from it. This greatly increases its ability to carry water vapour (its relative humidity or RH is decreased). In warmer climates where the external air is warmer than the structure it can be a problem, but not in the UK.

Exactly. I'm grassing on him.

Thanks @Ferdinand looking at this with the worktop saved away for later it will fit snuggly In this space

I think this might be it.. see section 6 (4) https://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2002/9/part/2 "(4)The period for registration is 2 months beginning with the date on which the relevant event occurs, or such longer period as the registrar may provide under subsection (5)." Edit: section 7(1) implies the transfer is void if you dont comply with section 6

Yes, this happened with HMRC. I made an error on the SDLT1 form by not writing in an address for the land (although the instruction clearly said that if the land had no address, instead I should submit a plan, which I did). It was rejected because Q28 is a mandatory question, and not completing the box is an automatic fail. We've now been fined £100 for not submitting our land tax payment on time, because they rejected the form and the payment. Suffice it to say I have appealed the fine based on their own guidance for completing the form, which offers the option not to complete that particular question...

I hear what you are saying. But his problem is one room takes forever to heat up. That room has plenty of flow, nearly twice the calculated required flow, and it is still taking ages to heat up. The other rooms even with very much reduced flow seem to be heating up okay. So yes in an ideal world you need to persist with balancing it so all rooms heat up at the same rate. BUT the main issue is why is this room taking so long to heat up, and I would say we have proved it is not a balancing issue so for the moment I see no point persisting with that line of attack. I would next be using an IR thermometer to see the actual floor temperatures of the different rooms. My guess is the problem room will have a very much lower floor temperature due to the floor make up in that room not conducting heat very well.

I can help there. Being the forum cheapskate, they are already in pots growing for a couple of years time. The aim is blueberries from late June to mid September, different foliage colours and varied flowers. There is also a box, a blackberry and my previously neglected Fuschia which is kindly giving me a new flush of flowers after I apologised to it and extracted it from its sulking corner behind the bamboo.

oh gosh, I'm only 25 years so I have a way to go

Perfect level master can be used on walls, but as you have already worked out - you can use a spacer with your levelling system. This our floor using the 3mm clips and corner spacers

that's cheap, cheap on both the build costs and the percentage

How good is the correlation between thermostat settings and actual room temperatures? At my mother's at the moment and it is sweltering.

My heating wouldn't be on yet if it was set at 18-20C. I wouldn't be married either!

Excellent! Wendy particularly likes your console table .