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Photos of tiling and work.and new toy a Peterson sawmill LINE_MOVIE_1592462720839.mp4

Back in June 2017 we found a house for sale close to us in Holywood, Co. Down - 4 bed bungalow, 115m2 on a large plot on one of the best streets in the town. Within our budget. Couldn't believe it! So we put in a offer at the asking price. Didn't hear anything back. Phoned the agent a few days later and bidding was going on way above our offer... developers with cash. Obviously they saw it a potential site. So, we accepted our loss and moved on. Then, two months later, it appeared back on the market! Issue with site lines meant you'd never get permission for additional units on the site. So back to our original offer, and it was accepted! It was a kip. We knew there would be serious renovation works and were budgeting to spend £80k+ on renovation and extension. Turns out we were very optimistic. Estimates started being bandied around that were double our budget... kind of in the new house build territory. So we took the plunge and looked in to financing a new build. Turned out more difficult than we thought - no local lenders would offer a product, luckily we got a recommendation for Ecology and they would allow us to convert our existing residential mortgage to a self build, once we had full PP. In Sept 2018 after a year of planning, we finally got FPP. Original house: The issues were much bigger than we though - no foundations, lime mortar was crumbling away. The brief of the new design was straight forward as we knew what we wanted - simple, 200m2, 4 bed, big open plan living area etc. The sloping site complicated matters a bit... so much so we ended up including a full footprint basement, rather than have split level living. The design at the front is deliberately simple as we're in a conservation area and didn't want to battle too much. Rear is where all the action is!! The design has changed since these renderings - no garage, and smaller courtyard and few retaining walls. These pushed us out of budget when the QS estimates came in at £340k! Almost £100k more than budget. Latest floor plans: Basement: Ground Floor: First Floor: As I type this, we have just started site clearance and ground works..... with an interesting find that could threaten to eat up our contingency already!!!

Ah but this time you buy the glazing first and build the house around the glazing.

No leave it. I think i could broker you a deal with someone that has some walk on glazing. You could walk over it and look down every day.........

All my work

That's a good point - if I end up having to stone face then it could be 100mm insulation + minimum 200mm stone. However in that situation I'd likely need to use the slate window ledges that are common round these parts, so the sill projection wouldn't need to be too big.

I will be positioning my windows 60mm in from outside face of ICF plus thickness of render using a ply box to fix through into the concrete core. In hindsight I think it would have been preferable to use a plastic board like stokboard instead of ply Splayed reveals are possible with ICF, Ive got some EPS mouldings on order which will be foamed in and rendered over.

@Conor, just make sure you measure it correctly, we don’t want a repeat performance now do we ?

He's an architect, he won't be joking about that!

Needs digging out as it needs to have water in rather than mud... but got to say it would make a brilliant feature with some lights in it and walk over glazing..!

We are planning on building a very modern house in the garden of our current home a listed building. As we get older we realise that low beams and steps are not conducive with getting older hence our new project with flat floor, higher ceilings and a lift! Nearly there on submitting detailed planning permission having got OPP last year. We are going to self manage the build using contractors/trades as appropriate.

A certain forum member is going to get very excited. You might get a PM. Just remember my introduction fee, I mentioned it first.

If only we knew someone interested in selling some.

Can you move the wall and make a feature or of it in your basement.

Probably useless to most people but its freeeeeeeeeeeeeeeceee! (at the moment) https://www.amazon.co.uk/Solar-Energy-engineering-photovoltaic-technologies-ebook/dp/B0198VHPHM

There are two things here that should help. The first is to document the agreement in both sets of deeds, and mark the boundary with "boundary features" (which are used by surveyors in determinating the boundary on the ground).In this case I would put in concreted in metal posts, which will last half a century, and get the church person to say yes to the placement. Probably using "estate fencing" (which is the metal stuff they put alongside roads in country estates) or concrete post and mesh fencing (which is the stuff you find inside hedges that was installed in the 1950s) would be appropriate. Or fencing repair spurs and wooden posts. The important thing is to create a long term footprint on the ground to provide direction beyond the General Boundary Rule that will still be there in 2075. All these types of fencing are relatively cheap if bought carefully. The other is to invoke the 'Measured Boundary Rule' procedure, where the Registry accept a mutually agreed boundary documented with absolute locations (ie GPS) by a mutually appointed (probably RICS) surveyor. Since you like the outcome, I suggest that you take both party's costs on the chin, which will let you sell it as generously providing a once-and-for-all clear solution. And hopefully build an excellent cooperative relationship. If it is a CofE church, they are likely to have a local architect on retainer for Quinquiennial Reports, who may be a useful contact to know about, though Churchwardens are usually extraordinarily sensible if you don't brush their fur the wrong way (they have to manage Vicars... ). Ferdinand

Ah, the UK land registry does not seem as helpful as the Scottish one, and does not preview the map on the screen before you buy. But I found this one https://www.ukplanningmaps.com/buy/ That lets you preview the land registry maps on screen before you buy so from that you might be able to identify your boundary and see if you can find any identifiable objects to align it with. EDIT I see that site only allows two free searches before it forces you to place an order so get it right first time and stay on the page until you have extracted all the information you need. Or while away some time searching for other sources of maps, "planning maps" seems a good search term.

Yes - cut a piece longer than a branch fitting plus a length of pipe that will hold two slip couplings - which is about 300mm. Mark the pipe where the tee needs to sit, taking into consideration the length of the socket on the pipe. Cut the length of pipe out with enough space to slide the tee onto the stub. Chamfer, lube well and slip the tee onto the fixed pipe. Now measure approx 300mm from the tee back along your second fixed pipe, and cut and chamfer. Accurately cut a length of pipe to fit the gap, chamfer both ends and mark the pipe where the slip couplings are mid point. Lube up and fit both slip couplings. Put it into the gap and then slide the couplings into place to the marks you've made. Time for a cuppa and a chocolate digestive...

Thanks for all the posts. I ended up changing the solvent weld elbow into a compression elbow and then got the rubber seal which fits perfectly for anyone else looking for a solution to this. It just sits inside the regular compression seal.

Frankly if you and the church agree and you have a document showing their agreement who’s going to argue? After so many years it will not matter anyway. I sold a strip of land on a previous house and land registry records were completely wrong but they accepted our mutual agreement and altered their records ?.

Have a play with fitting but I think off the vertical i'd perhaps pop a 45deg y juntion with another 45 getting you to 90 for your connection. Then I'd take the vertical up and try to put some kind of lid on it at surface level(I know most rodding points are suited for 45deg on the surface). Then the manhole 3m away as you say. I reality if it worked before fine it will work again but would be nice to have that vertical access for if anything ever went wrong

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-tayside-central-45286413 https://www.hutton.ac.uk/news/scotlands-first-vertical-indoor-farm-unveiled-hutton-dundee-site

Was you fiddling a couple of days back and you broke our internet?

One of my Airbnb geusts was working in this feild and at the time I was intrested, lost his bloody details now..... but his research was to do with LED grow lights as it was a very cheep way of. Increasing yield on a large scale, so hopefully someone knows something. I want to eventually look at the feasibility of doing it throughout my planned polly tunnel to extend the growing season..... linked in to the whole thing being powered by a moderate sized wind turbine..... mostly just dreaming at the moment but........

I think you’re going to have a budget issue - working on old houses is expensive, add on unusual design such as cranked skeilings and other details and you add to costs. I understand you want to do this to make space and add value but I would check very carefully first as I think you’ll find this has the potential to be a very expensive conversion.

@JSHarris, once again a very comprehensive and helpful response. Thank you.

It’s ok ; I have 4 different sizes available!

You dream of being caught? Or just being in prison?

Well not all of them obviously otherwise I’d be in prison

The post you have been waiting all this time for has finally arrived @pocster

Architect has just suggest we turn the 90 corner at that part of the house to two 45s so it would be within the building.... build up to floor level and stick on walk on glazing. Not sure if he's joking....

Pocster fiddles during the night It was a horrible sight. All we knew the lights went out. And Buildhub had a terrible fright. (and a law suit)

were they cheaper? and if so by how much