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Aha. The second law of programming. "The Last n% of a program takes (100-n)% of the time to complete". I have a Plan F for you. Prevent all the echoes thusly, and save the repair time: At this point I think I need to run and hide.

One posted on another forum (if I can find it I will copy a link) where the reflected light made an image of, well, the first word of the thread title.

Thought I might make a start...

£20 a bag ( 20kg ) is the average. I use 'standard set' or 'extended set', different makes use different names for it but you get a good hour in the tub and it cleans off things easily after 2 hours. If this is for porcelain tiles then get a new tiler NOW. If its over tanking and with porcelain then punch him in the face first and then sack him.

There are online tests too. http://www.electricalcoursesuk.co.uk/exam/ I just did it and got 60% and I can't even wire a plug so you'll piss it !!

But even a model can cause confusion. Apparently when they were putting in the application for the Hockerton Housing Project houses they had a scale model which you could lift the top off to show the internal layout of the houses and how they were built into the berm. Somebody (a councillor?) asked if the roof would lift off the real houses. ?

Or vice versa.

? Love it.

I managed to track down the tiler we used in our last build and he is now on board, through the trade account I got fast set flexible adhesive for £10.95 a 20kg bag(plus vat)

My software was extremely expensive. She insisted on diamonds. Issues real-time instructions. Needs chocolate too.

I think you may be overthinking a bit soon get it all tiled and have another look. You can change the bulbs to one with a different spread pattern so may change it i wouldn’t panic yet

I worked on a scheme of townhouses in a terrace. The engineer set out using his laser total station, all computerised and accurate to within 3mm. I called on site and could see that the setting out "pegs" were zig zagging down the line. The pile layout was in a straight line. So using a tape measure , 10 mins later all were reset correctly using the foundation drawing and a tape measure. remember if it looks wrong, it probably is wrong.

I’ve the exact same system It was commissioned a couple of months back simalar problems to yours I decided in the end to drain it all off and refill Works a treat now

@Dreadnaught i suppose my thoughts depend on how your slips will fix to the frame, i am not keen on anything fixed directly to the frame I would want to see a void to act as a drainage plain any moisture that finds its way to the back of the slips needs a void for it fall down and out my last house had an insulated frame, then an uninsulated cavity, then a block outer skin, then rendered we all have to make choices based on our thoughts and research, but I would rather have a system where I would be happy standing with a hose pointing directly at my external wall knowing if there is any moisture penetration then it has a path to escape.

@Me111 To be honest I think that given your constraints it is bloody difficult to create an effective and atttractive layout at a reasonable cost, to the point of being almost impossible as far as I can see without accepting some sort of major compromise for *someone*. Creativity required. So.. What is in the Hall cupboard, and how big an ensuite do you want? I assume that the child in the front bedroom does not need that enlarging. The best option I can currently see is this: 1 Move the extension to the other side, across bedrooom 3 and the lounge. 2 Get te space for your ensuites from the hall cupboard - but that wall might be structural - and by nickIng the bit from bed 3 on te left inside the door. 3 Enlarge bed 3 into the new extension, and sideways by a couple of feet or a metre Into the 14ft 7 wide lounge. A 12 ft wide lounge can be zoned lengthways into eg eating, sitting more easily than a 7 ft wide bedroom. 4 Lengthen the lounge into the rest of the new extension as a sunny sitting space. 5 Patio doors in te master to a secluded south facing terrace. 6 Eventually get rid of the wall between kitchen and lounge that will give you a correctly orientated modern through room. One advantage is that your extension would be away from both boundaries so no Party Wall Agreement pfaffing, at the cost of more messing about with stud walls. Another advantage is that you get three practical double bedrooms, rather than 2doubles and a corridor. Suspect this suggestion needs to be drawn to be appreciated. Ferdinand

I would have agreed with you a few months ago but I find them great now that I know how they work TBH especially with the central controller that does every room (Lizzie has her app for that but that wasn't available 8 years ago when we bought the controls). They do take a bit of getting used to for sure though.

@ProDave been there done that thank you!?

Hi All, Came across this forum by mistake, and it’s best mistake I’ve made haha. The information and contributions made on this forum is amazing, almost like a hidden gem for self builders. I am currently in the near end of planning stages and getting ready to turn that vision on paper in to a reality. Regards, KSR

Even just the country helps as there are very different regs / processes up here in Scotland for example and it prevents people from giving you the wrong advice.

I think I've a load of 2391 past papers here too...somewhere...if I find them I'll send it all on.

Always sweetie! ?

@Nickfromwales, you can borrow my (fairly old) multifunction tester if you want to practice and get up to speed. It's nowhere near as easy to use as some of the newer machines from Fluke or Megger, but it will do every test needed. I bought it second hand when I thought I was going to be able to wire our build and get BC to sign it off, but only got to use it enough to find out how it worked (all testing back when I used to do electrical work years ago was with an Avo 8 and a Megger, none of this connect a magic box up, press a button and wait until it beeps and gives you all the info!). I can't see that I'll need it for a while now. Last time I used it was to do an EICR on our old house, and next time I'll use it will be to do a periodic check on the new house, I suspect. I could bring it with me to Bristol, if you want to borrow it.

Two "musts": Don't shag the neighbours missus / daughter Don't run over their cat/ dog

Like this. Window sill is in fact that much wider than the sink. Done well should be no chance of water getting under the 3cm upstand or sill. And the white upvc will match the windows.

Welcome to THE forum for all things self build - anybody who can make what is essentially a creamy liquid stick to a ceiling gets my respect!

Getting the neighbours on side is quite easy Keeping them on side is the tricky bit

here is a BBA cert for a very similar Pavatex Diffutherm system bba-certificate-for-nbt-timber-frame-rendered.pdf

@Weebles we have two electric ovens (neff hide and slide) and a 5 burner LPG hob. Above the hob is a luxair glass extractor fitted with twin carbon filters set to recirculate The oven units have vents at the back but the Neff seems to vent through a vent above the doors at the front. As they are next to the hob extractor the heat would be drawn into the extractor I have found that the house stays cool if you do not introduce heat including from outside so i do not really want to open doors or windows. However that is my only choice as an MVHR even on boost cannot remove the heat from cooking( we have fitted two ducts to the MVHR extract in the kitchen that copes well with smells from cooking. I wish i had put a duct from the luxair extractor to the outside wall so i had the option to vent the cooker hood outside( i know that the negative pressure caused by the removal of 980m³/hr at full belt would require us opening a window but at least that could be at the cool side of the house. I would have not cut the hole until i had passed the air test and fitted an air valve to shut it off if needed.

Tell them it’s global warming ?

I doubt they would notice as it’s a fully automated system. There are loads of factors that affect generation, and adding something like an optimiser to an existing MCS install could do the same, as could just trimming trees.

@lizzie Thanks, I think that's good advice. We will most likely build the house and garage in parallel and use a different storage option for materials to save money on the inspections. I also need a warranty to prove I am a self-builder for my CIL exemption which is another good reason. @curlewhouse Thanks, I read your blog and that is unreal ! I am not using mainstream (ibeam timber frame with cellulose insulation) and for that reason am using a building inspector familiar with the build method rather than one provided by the warranty company. It is more expensive that way but will hopefully prevent any unnecessary delays. Stunning location and lovely house by the way.

Bagged adhesive is the only way to go. I would be slightly worried if he wants tubs.

Dai Doubledecks playin' the final vinyl?

I am at a similar stage and considering diy setting out to save £500. My house position is also vague with nothing substantial available for precise positioning of the footings. I have two hedges, a lane, another ancient property about 15 meters away and one new house 30 meters away in-build. The local planning officer told me they don't resort to enforcement when the position is less than 0.5m out. My house also has an interesting rotation 10 degrees different to the building-line alignment of nearby properties, so I plan to reference a solar azimuth table and align the front elevation to a shadow at the right time of the day. I have done multiple trial set outs of the foundation plan by resorting to school boy trigonometry, the bit that worries me is "levels". I don't get all the mystique about levels but have 3 weeks to get my head around the subject. Everyone in the building trade assumes I will be paying an expert to obtain laser calibrated "levels", this feels like overkill considering the max fall across my footings is 250mm. Easy visual trigonometry can be done at this web site, it is preferable to scaling up from 3,4,5 triangles: https://www.visualtrig.com p.s. Do all you trigonometry diagonal length calculations back home on a desk, it is too much bother to fiddle with a trig web site at the plot on a sunny day.