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The attic trusses arrived today after making a three hour journey from Inverness to Skye. Offloading took place at our site entrance. Our joiner did a great job weaving between odd trees on our access. Trusses unloaded and ready to start being fitted over the next few days. Had a sneak peak on the top of the scaffolding to get a view from where the treble velux windows will be fitted.

Sorted. That one ordered. Came down to £349 with a discount code, and remarkably, free delivery all the way up here. Buildhub. The forum that likes to save you money.

For anyone on the verge of committing to purchase a Sunamp unit, you may want to bite the bullet sooner than later: current 10% discount - or 20% for a fully-paid purchase by 29th June!

Do you know what the scientific method is?

Before your scientific method came along to save the world and provide an indisputable universal truth, the human race was doing quite well. In 70,000 years minus your 300 we had the agricultural revolution, the appearance of art, writing, national constitutions, the wheel, Roman engineering, Religion, money and the Duomo in Florence. The scientific method is just a consensus algorithm that allows second rate minds to play science with the big boys. Archimedes did not need the crutch of scientific method when he jumped out of the bath, he just knew.

Tanked = adhesive Untanked = silicone

So to put you all out of your misery as your probably on the edge of your seats waiting for the result i filled a 1000 litre tank in 16 minutes so looking at all your guesses that seems very good maybe one less thing to worry about.

Back of envelope calculations Assuming you can store and use 6KWh of electricity every day, @12p per unit that will save £0.72 per day That's a saving of £262.80 per year. At a cost of £5345 that would take 20 years to pay for itself. I doubt you would really store and use 6KWh every day, especially in winter so savings would be less. Will the batteries really last 20 years? Not there yet I am afraid.

Or alternatively, it probably isn't possible to summarise 70,000 years of history while also sketching out a new general theory of humanity in a single book, without a significant risk of over-generalising. Yup, that rings a bell. And during that period, people were murdered for heretical theories based on simple factual observations. The scientific method has a lot of flaws, but it's still the best approach we have (one of those "it's the worst approach except for all the others" situations). If anything, the problem we presently have is that the general population doesn't understand or accept much about science. If they did, then they'd do a better job of understanding science's limitations, and potentially wayward scientists would be kept honest.

If it is not too heavy stuff you are doing, permanent spray glue for picture mounting could be an option if you get a decent one. Would probably need an absorbent surface however.

That scares me tbh! I need more time to fanny about hence asking if a slower approach is sans activator.

I used the glue on what was the side of the cupboard, and the activater on the furry side of the hardboard. Got caught out by the speed of binding when doing the first side .. virtually no time to adjust at all.

Anyhoo, back to Glue. Tried the Mitre Glue to stick the liner to my dead-built-in-microwave space. Goes off damn quick, and sticks like .. er ... anything.

I had that type of beko fridge with the water dispenser for near 8 years. Never gave a min of trouble. Only got rid as it didn't fit anywhere in the new house. It's still going strong in the sister in law's.

This one any good? Not sure about delivery to you. https://ao.com/product/crfdl7914s-beko-fridge-freezer-silver-48404-28.aspx?&WT.z_PT=MDA&WT.z_AT=fridge freezers frost free&WT.z_MT=Search&WT.z_MAT=Beko&WT.z_FT=Free Standing&WT.z_PC=CRFDL7914S_SI&WT.srch=1&WT.z_KW=CRFDL7914S_SI&WT.z_DT=m&WT.z_RTM=PLA&WT.z_CN=MDA - Fridge Freezers - Gen&WT.z_AG=Type Generic&gclid=CjwKCAjw68zZBRAnEiwACw0eYXvX6GLZv2Cgove8mIyOxHGoLfI5cevdAcfPx3d7oSSKEtRTwRG_OhoCx4QQAvD_BwE

Not sure of the pressure but I'd say it's a bit above average. We can get >40L/min in the main bathroom with everything open. We have a 25mm main to the house, and from there to the outside tap we have a run of about 15ft in 15mm copper. We also had an underground rainwater tank available that holds a few thousand liters but that only lasted 1 day watering the turf. The combination of sun and wind meant the turf started to shrink if left unwatered for more than an hour so it was a constant battle to move the sprinklers around fast enough.

This reminds me of the time I went to look at an oven from the high street - would have bought if it there had been a decent price. They had two of the particular one I was looking at on display in different areas of the store. As I looked at it, an assistant came out and changed the price on the display, reducing it by £150. He didn't change the other one. So, I approached a different employee and asked about their price match policy. At the time, it was double the difference if you found it cheaper elsewhere. "So, it has to be a bricks and mortar store?" "Yeah." "And it has to be within 10 miles?" "Yeah" "And it can't be using a staff discount or anything?" "Nope. Where have you seen it cheaper?" "It's just over there!" Amazingly, he did not find this as hilariously funny as I did. I argued my case so extensively to the manager that he gave in eventually. I suspect that they have since changed the policy.

The first two drawings here show the difference. In a counterflow arrangement, the fluids move in opposite directions. Theoretical efficiency is 100%, although more than 90% in the real world is doing well. Crossflow means the fluids move at 90 degrees to each other. This simplifies the connections in a device like that shown above, but theoretical efficiency drops to 75%. A parallel flow, where both fluids are moving in the same direction, is at best 50% efficient. The one linked above is crossflow, but with a double-back path (blue arrows) that will tend to bump the theoretical efficiency up from 75%: To turn this into a full counterflow unit, you would change the divider strip layer to look like this, with the parallel dividers being parallel to the coroplast tubes: I'm not sure that a lack of sealing in the channels is likely to be a big issue, but I agree about the thickness. You could always use flat sheets of thinner material and alternate the pattern above with the pattern below: The problem is that anything thin enough isn't going to be very rigid, so might be annoying to work with. Some sort of jig would help, and once the first few layers are done it should stiffen up and make things easier. Sounds like a lot of work, but hey, it's not like you've a bathroom to finish @Onoff Another diy option is to make something like this, using thinwall plastic tubing: Make the (white) plates out of something like XPS (perhaps melt holes through). To be honest, I love thinking about this sort of thing, especially when I have a big bit of horrible work that I'm trying to get done today(!), but I'm less sure about relying on diy solutions for bringing fresh air into my home long term.

There is a causal relationship here. High Street retail is in its death throws, its remaining function to satisfy those who demand compulsive retail therapy between episodes of Jeremy Kyle.

I was recommended hatha yoga (restorative).

Just on this, you shouldn’t be relying on the tanking to stop water getting through - it’s the absolute last line of defence ! Tiles and grout are reasonably waterproof - just look at a swimming pool for example. A full bed of adhesive is also pretty watertight, so with tiles, grout and adhesive, any water getting through will be minuscule and the tanking is there to provide a final layer. Be aware that the Aquaseal stuff doesn’t look like it’s fully covered but you put it on in two layers at right angles with a brush and it does work well. Don’t be tempted to put it on too thick or it will flex and the grout will move.

Only use the strip where the ply meets the MRPB. Tanking the pocket is more than suffice, unless your going to fill the bath with cheerleaders and red bull ?

I did quite a bit of research on sprinklers systems recently, and the Caber Colibri system looked decent for lawns. Jeremy has their drip irrigation system and spoke highly of it in my earlier thread. It's one of the options in PeterW's link above.

Your best bet is to leave it and let it establish naturally as otherwise you will be watering daily and probably going through 2-3000 litres a day. If you’re desperate to water it and keep it looking good then try these guys - always had good service and they know their stuff with irrigation equipment.

we put our seed down nearly 2 months ago and despite hours of sprinkler it is still very patchy and a dust bowl in places. I have taken to going over the dryest patches with the hose as well as the sprinkler. I ditched the long sprinkler (as one in your picture) and got a circular one that does a bigger area so I have to move it less. I am sprinkling in three moves and doing each area for an hour in the evening so 3 hours a day and now I am doing 3 times a week not every day now grass is growing. Yours looks bigger area than mine.

Not 45 degrees or the shampoo won't stay put . Just a couple of degrees will be ample. Water won't completely run off anyway as you'll have stuff on the shelves, so I wouldn't go mad. +1 to packing first, then tanking. Make the ramp out of a solid bed of tile adhesive. Wait until it's 75% cures and then drag an engineers rule over it to 'scrape' it flat. Fill any dinks AFTER it dries and then tank. Theres not much point in going crazy over the shower valve TBH, as you need access later down the road anyhoo. When you tile around the shower valve it's better to keep the tile adhesive about an inch away from the cutout, and then go around the cement board with CT1 or Sikaflex. Start at 7 o'clock and apply a nice continuous fat bead up and over all the way around to 5 o'clock leaving a gap at 6 o'clock for a drip gap. That'll manage any water away from the opening, should some ever get in there. Be very careful with the tanking strip, especially when overlapping from one to another, as you'll soon have created a high spot a good 4-5mm proud of the wall. Then you have to bring the rest of the wall out to that point so you don't get kickers. Butt them where there's no continuous water eg most of the walls, and only overlap on the floor to wall junctions and the floor to ceiling junction. All the walls / pockets you can butt and just tank the shit out of it ( over it ). Remember that tanking alone is bombproof, and stretchy too, so the strip is only for junctions where dissimilar materials meet and you expect movement. On the walls and the pocket shelves you won't get any such movement so it's really not needed. Adding it for the sake of adding it can cause problems ( with high points ) not solve them ( as stated above ).

Our sensors are in the slab - we dont have a screed - we used ufh pipe as ducts and it was very successful and easy to work with.

well I've just re-secured all our strong backs - its made Q a difference. Also added 18mm ply either side of the metal web joists - also a positive impact. After reading on this forum - I also secured the ends of the joists again so they are rock solid. All helps me sleep at night and hopefully has a positive impact on the floor as well!

If it’s half as good as Ray Parlour’s autobiography then it’s a cracking read.

There can be no sensible debate about MMGW unless you include in that debate the NUMBER of people on the planet. That is the taboo nobody wants to mention. So do we reduce pollution per person, the number of people, or both? I still WANT battery storage, but it needs to be an economic decision.

Rebuild cost has to allow a cost for demolition and clearance of the site in the even of the building so badly damages it has to be rebuilt, so add back on what you have taken off and you won't be far out.

Prisons dont seem that bad these days

We have negative pressure currently and don’t have any issues with the smoke coming in, at present there are huge gaps around the floors, soon to be gone tho. maybe it just isn’t as much of an issue as I’m thinking. didnt think about building regs for the supply as well as extract. it may just have to be a suck it and see project, keep my eye out on eBay for leftover/second hand components and just give it a go and see what happens

We find the main benefit of MVHR is the constant level of ventilation it provides. We still throw the windows open at night in summer to cool the place down.

Well. After a year of negotiating on a plot and trying to meet the many challenges it presented, we have, at the eleventh hour, reconsidered. No plot purchase, no build. We'll still be selling up and downsizing, but no fixed plans after that. There might yet be a future project, but there's nothing in mind at the moment. Thanks for all your support and advice. Might still drop by on occasions, meanwhile... Au revoir Dee

The ovens are not such an issue. Actually Howdens have a better choice than any single shop I have seen, I just need to see how much room for maneuver they have in the prices when I go back. The issue is turning out to be the Fridge. That has been subject to a lot of discussion. SWMBO now does not want a double door American style thing, they are "too big" But nearly all the upright FF's are 60cm wide or less and just too small and just look too tall and skinny. We found this Beko one that is 70cm wide and has a lot more volume. If we can get it for the £449 it was previously on sale for, we would buy one. Nobody local has it. Can't find it on line. There are a few on ebay but down south and collection only. The blood boiling thing is it is now on "clearance sale" for £499. If only that stupid woman would do it for £449 we would buy it, I feel I am being ripped off, being asked to pay more than a recently advertised normal price for a clearance sale item. This is as much a matter of principle than anything else. Oh and the REALLY stupid thing, they also had the new model that is replacing it. Exactly the same body and interior, just slightly different designed doors. £300 more. Forget that.

In addition to bracing the roof just with cross braces (in an area that is going to form part of the bedroom ceiling,) which is bad enough - the joiners have just found this so from the diagonal it's half cut through and they had just patched it with a little square of wood so it couldn't be seen. Like 6"sq and 1/2" thick. There is a velux installed close by and it would seem that they were cutting the wrong joist for it.