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Why would you consider a pellet fired boiler over an ASHP?

Go for it.

Are there actually perforations in the pipe?

Where in Oxford are you building? I'm around Oxford - no ICF but I got a JCB!

Though this seems to contradict what punter says so maybe I’m wrong and something has changed about how it all works

Is it a new build? You need to check to see if PD rights will exist - I think they are sometimes removed on new builds. if a refurb/extension then I know it was sometimes done by getting planning first and then implementing works allowed under PD before the works that went through the planning process. If you did the PD work after the scope of the planning works might effectively remove PD rights. Depends on the scope of works.

I would have gone for 25mm battens if using pegs. As it is what about 40mm flat end pegs that won't puncture the felt. Might have to use the 30mm pegs if the peg hole lines up with a rafter. Something like this (H40ALISP1): http://www.samacfixings.co.uk/Products/details?nodeid=117 Every tile should have at least one peg . Personally I would just be going with two in each. The weight from the other tiles will hold tiles without a peg in place but long term I wouldn't risk it. So if that leads you to giving up and ditching the peg tiles so be it. At least your tiles look nice and flat! Mine were all over the shop and made it more like a jigsaw puzzle.

i think my first call would be to isolate it, clean it up a bit with wire brush and then slap a load of PTFE tape on and tighten.

I am considering making a claim for unpaid work from a plastering company for a couple of grand. It was for work done over a period of time in 2017 and I sent a final invoice in December 2017. I think (maybe wrongly) that there is a 3 year time limit on claims so want to get on with it. Basically I got paid for some work early on but carried on working too long without getting paid. In January 2018 I managed to get him to email me a credit note on headed paper for the full amount. After months/years of no communication from him and apart from 2 payments of hundred quid it has proved impossible to get him to pay. I haven't tried any form of alternative dispute resolution because I know from my dealings with him that it is pointless. I know that he has had multiple CCJs against him. He is still trading under the same name. Just wondering if anyone has any advice/words of wisdom. And if I get a ruling against him how can I force him to pay? Is it a case of debt collectors?

It takes a surprising amount of time to do the initial grind, the finer grinding is much quicker - a week in total for about 40m2 it took me. I was taking quite a bit off though as I had added a bunch of larger stones into the top of the pour and wanted them properly exposed. Also - doing it myself I bought the grinding discs and they aren't cheap (though the initial grinding discs have a long way to go before they run out). Presumably the £120/m2 price includes the concrete pour and mesh. I can see how it adds up.

I hired a grinder and did my own polished concrete in Oxford area with ufh pipes attached to steel mesh. Done it twice now. Getting a flat pour will save a lot of time later with the initial grind. Can give more info on technicalities if needed. I didn't power float as I was advised against it by the place I hired the grinder from.

Thanks for all the input. I managed to get the stopcock working (almost - it still doesn't shut it off completely though) enough to do the job. Regarding the incoming mains - Thames Water say they don't do anything beyond their external stopcock. All pipes from the external to internal stopcock are the responsibility of the homeowner. I wonder if that has always been like that.

Thanks dave I will try that. Yes I think it is lead pipe below so I will take care. And yes I did check with the neighbours and the water was still flowing!

So I find out that the internal stopcock has seized. Go outside to the Thames Water stopcock that feeds 2 properties. Tell the neighbours I'm going to turn it off for a bit. Stick my arm in and twist right until it is all the way off. Lo and behold the water keeps flowing in the house. Seems weird as the tap seems to move ok so don't see how it isn't working but it doesn't seem to be. Phone the glorious company that is Thames Water to see if they can come and mend the outside stopcock - apparently they have a new policy involving not doing 'routine' maintenance and the gentleman on the phone says that they won't come out to mend something like that as he says you need to use the internal stopcock. I calmly suggest that it won't make changing the internal stopcock very easy and so surely they have to mend the outside one. He suggests a plumber to come out and freeze/crimp the existing internal stopcock so that it can be changed (sounds a bit beyond me). Has anyone heard of that before that they won't sort out an external stopcock? Is that even legal/ allowed by the regulator? Going back to trying to unseize the internal stopcock - a quick look at youtube suggests loosening the gland a little and then forcing the tap back and forth if possible until it works. If I try that and force it too much so that the handle breaks I presume that won't cause a leak at the stopcock - is that true?

those look pretty cool Zoot! now come on - if you can make/repair those you can slap a shelf on or put some skirting on without any help!

Zoot - am I right in thinking that you are a cabinet maker? Is this true? Correct me if I am wrong but I thought I saw something to that effect in a post a while ago.

Compression joints only. No soldering.

A brush maybe?

Doors are one thing I let other people do. Learnt from bitter experience!

I have one HMO that I have had for a number of years. Never had any issues or ever had to consider any legal action but am in a situation where it would be good to know where I stand legally. Bit complicated so I will try and explain as simply as I can. Tenant in question (Tenant X from now on) living in house on a tenancy that ended 1st September 2020. Arranged a new tenancy with different people (signed only a couple weeks before 1st September) that runs from 1st September for a year. Due to the late signing of the contract they aren't moving in till 20th September (and are only paying for half September's rent). Tenant X helped show the new tenants around the house when I was away and is in contact with them. He came to an arrangement with the new tenants about staying on at the house to help with his work situation before he heads back to his home country (in exchange for paying bills/ leaving furniture). I objected to this partly because tenant X arranged this with no communication with myself and as I want some time to work on the house a bit and hate having messy tenancy endings that overlap in any way. Ultimately I agreed as the new tenants appeared ok with it but I asked tenant X that he move out by 16th Sept. Despite two reminders he never confirmed that he would do this. Forward to the present and after I say I will be coming to check the house is left in a similar state to which I gave it to Tenant X and he informs me that due to exceptional circumstances he isn't leaving yet and has agreement with the new tenants that he can stay a bit longer (potentially a week into October but I really don't know). I spoke with the new tenants and they said they were ok with it partly on the understanding that I was happy with it (which is what Tenant X told them was the case). Clearly I am not happy with it and indeed I had made it clear to tenant X that I was not ok with the any overlap from the start. Where do I stand legally? If I want to force him to leave what should I do? I've never had to resort to an eviction notice and don't know much about it but how does the fact that effectively he is out of contract but still there (on the agreement of the new tenants) affect this? Clearly I shouldn't have let it get to this situation but I am a reasonable person and assume others are until I find out otherwise and have never felt the need to use anything other than dialogue with tenants to sort things out. I imagine this will get resolved diplomatically somehow but would greatly appreciate any advice. Ultimately I want to keep my relationship with my new tenants as good as possible and it seems that they are being pushed into a position that they shouldn't have to be in.

Why not concentrate on making the internal leaf airtight since it is easier and more effective? There isn't any real advantage to having two airtight layers.

Thanks for all your advice. Still undecided of course!

Definitely make it absolutely certain that the council know work has started.

Hydraulic lime is what you want not hydrated. Hydrated is used more like a plasticiser. You can do all rendering/plastering with hydraulic lime and sand, no putty needed - a lot cheaper I would think. I would use sharper sand for scratch coats and a finer plastering sand for finish. Is this external as weather protection and internal? Is it a conversion or just staying as a church? If a conversion how are you insulating?

So I have two solid oak doors (external) that are going in. Would it be crazy not to put any oil or varnish on them? I am happy for the colour to age naturally. I have 2 carpenters on site and one says go with Osmo/Danish oil and the other says don't bother. Doors are on sheltered side of building not in a wet area. The only argument I can see for going with some sort of finish is that it can cut down on any expansion/contraction but I'm not sure how much that is true.