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Sorry for the basic question. Am I correct in assuming this is distinct from the main power to the ashp ? And why is that better than Spurs off, say, a ring main?

Lime wash isn’t so expensive. Bit different to put on than normal paint but very easy once you get a couple things right (dampen wall before painting and go for thin layers). are you planning on insulating the walls? You can still do that with a breathable buildup (lime plaster backing coat/airtight layer, wood fibre board, finish lime plaster). I’ll second putting in a french drain along the outside wall.

Just realized that this differs from the usual Ecodans in that it uses a thermal store not an unvented tank - presumably that means you need to get the temperature of the water higher (so less efficient).

That looks interesting for what I need as well. Anyone know if these can be put into reverse for cooling? I know with some other Ecodans people have said it can be done (though not obvious from the literature or sales speak).

it looked cheap from the photo. maybe that is where your issue is? just a thought

how much was the carpet per metre squared?

The JCB has been very useful - bought unseen from a Scottish golf course. Bit sloppy so not great for detailed/accurate digging work (its an old X reg). 360 needed for some of that. Very good for moving stuff around - forks on the front for moving pallets/compost loos. Has been reliable too. Beckley sounds nice - I drive past there most days. Good luck.

Fair enough. I thought that while it may be true that RHI payments are good for biomass the current wisdom is that burning wood perhaps shouldn't have been viewed so favourably (worse pollutant emissions and the failure to recognize the uses of wood that can actually lock in the carbon capture). Clearly electricity needs to be generated somehow but I'm not sure Drax is the solution. Comparing ASHP and pellet boilers also does seem to point to much more hands on activity needed for pellet boilers and more space needed. Not that ASHPs can't have their own issues.

Why would you consider a pellet fired boiler over an ASHP?

Go for it.

Are there actually perforations in the pipe?

Where in Oxford are you building? I'm around Oxford - no ICF but I got a JCB!

Though this seems to contradict what punter says so maybe I’m wrong and something has changed about how it all works

Is it a new build? You need to check to see if PD rights will exist - I think they are sometimes removed on new builds. if a refurb/extension then I know it was sometimes done by getting planning first and then implementing works allowed under PD before the works that went through the planning process. If you did the PD work after the scope of the planning works might effectively remove PD rights. Depends on the scope of works.

I would have gone for 25mm battens if using pegs. As it is what about 40mm flat end pegs that won't puncture the felt. Might have to use the 30mm pegs if the peg hole lines up with a rafter. Something like this (H40ALISP1): http://www.samacfixings.co.uk/Products/details?nodeid=117 Every tile should have at least one peg . Personally I would just be going with two in each. The weight from the other tiles will hold tiles without a peg in place but long term I wouldn't risk it. So if that leads you to giving up and ditching the peg tiles so be it. At least your tiles look nice and flat! Mine were all over the shop and made it more like a jigsaw puzzle.

i think my first call would be to isolate it, clean it up a bit with wire brush and then slap a load of PTFE tape on and tighten.

I am considering making a claim for unpaid work from a plastering company for a couple of grand. It was for work done over a period of time in 2017 and I sent a final invoice in December 2017. I think (maybe wrongly) that there is a 3 year time limit on claims so want to get on with it. Basically I got paid for some work early on but carried on working too long without getting paid. In January 2018 I managed to get him to email me a credit note on headed paper for the full amount. After months/years of no communication from him and apart from 2 payments of hundred quid it has proved impossible to get him to pay. I haven't tried any form of alternative dispute resolution because I know from my dealings with him that it is pointless. I know that he has had multiple CCJs against him. He is still trading under the same name. Just wondering if anyone has any advice/words of wisdom. And if I get a ruling against him how can I force him to pay? Is it a case of debt collectors?

It takes a surprising amount of time to do the initial grind, the finer grinding is much quicker - a week in total for about 40m2 it took me. I was taking quite a bit off though as I had added a bunch of larger stones into the top of the pour and wanted them properly exposed. Also - doing it myself I bought the grinding discs and they aren't cheap (though the initial grinding discs have a long way to go before they run out). Presumably the £120/m2 price includes the concrete pour and mesh. I can see how it adds up.

I hired a grinder and did my own polished concrete in Oxford area with ufh pipes attached to steel mesh. Done it twice now. Getting a flat pour will save a lot of time later with the initial grind. Can give more info on technicalities if needed. I didn't power float as I was advised against it by the place I hired the grinder from.

Thanks for all the input. I managed to get the stopcock working (almost - it still doesn't shut it off completely though) enough to do the job. Regarding the incoming mains - Thames Water say they don't do anything beyond their external stopcock. All pipes from the external to internal stopcock are the responsibility of the homeowner. I wonder if that has always been like that.

Thanks dave I will try that. Yes I think it is lead pipe below so I will take care. And yes I did check with the neighbours and the water was still flowing!

So I find out that the internal stopcock has seized. Go outside to the Thames Water stopcock that feeds 2 properties. Tell the neighbours I'm going to turn it off for a bit. Stick my arm in and twist right until it is all the way off. Lo and behold the water keeps flowing in the house. Seems weird as the tap seems to move ok so don't see how it isn't working but it doesn't seem to be. Phone the glorious company that is Thames Water to see if they can come and mend the outside stopcock - apparently they have a new policy involving not doing 'routine' maintenance and the gentleman on the phone says that they won't come out to mend something like that as he says you need to use the internal stopcock. I calmly suggest that it won't make changing the internal stopcock very easy and so surely they have to mend the outside one. He suggests a plumber to come out and freeze/crimp the existing internal stopcock so that it can be changed (sounds a bit beyond me). Has anyone heard of that before that they won't sort out an external stopcock? Is that even legal/ allowed by the regulator? Going back to trying to unseize the internal stopcock - a quick look at youtube suggests loosening the gland a little and then forcing the tap back and forth if possible until it works. If I try that and force it too much so that the handle breaks I presume that won't cause a leak at the stopcock - is that true?

those look pretty cool Zoot! now come on - if you can make/repair those you can slap a shelf on or put some skirting on without any help!

Zoot - am I right in thinking that you are a cabinet maker? Is this true? Correct me if I am wrong but I thought I saw something to that effect in a post a while ago.

Compression joints only. No soldering.