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I'm installing 3 multipanel shower walls and am planning on leaving a 5-8mm gap at the bottom to seal with silicone. Should I cut my internal corner profiles to the exact same height as the multipanel so that there is the same gap at the bottom all the way round?

When wiring face plates for a ring main with 2.5mm wire is it advisable, sensible or unnecessary to double over the wire where it gets tightened to the connections? I ask because I seem to remember my previous electrician saying he always liked to double over any wires up to and including 2.5mm to provide a better contact. My current electrician isn't doing that so I am wondering if I should ask him to. Any thoughts?

I'm with you!

I can't see how space saver stairs could pass building regs bit you could ask. I installed some in a small attic conversion to bedroom in my previous house but there was no chance of building regs approval due to stair angle and height at top of stairs. I just accepted it was done without building regs approval while making sure it complied with regs as far as it could. It was pretty common practise on the street.

Don't forget to paint the ends of the planks when you put them down to dry. Less chance of splitting due to differential drying times.

excellent suggestions. I have some expamet lying around so I will go with that. Not sure why I didn't think of it given the number of bits of timber in the old walls I have covered with expamet before rendering already!

I have a small internal timber frame dividing wall that I want to render on to. What is my cheapest option for a board that takes render? A quick look at the internet finds options like this: https://www.insulationshop.co/9mm_renderflex_polymer_render_carrier_board.html But they seem expensive!

Are you moving in to the house straight away or is there a period of building when nobody is in the house? If the latter then you have a better chance of digging up floors so that you can get insulation under UFH. If you are not going to address the air tightness of the building then I would suggest MVHR is not suitable. If you do a thorough refurb then you have every opportunity to concentrate on air tightness detailing. This is much harder to do if you plan on doing things bit by bit if you have to live in the house while works are going on. I originally planned on a pellet boiler to power my farmhouse but I am glad I didn't go for it in the end. Many arguments against them from an ecological/maintenance point of view. If you can get your heat demand down I would say an ASHP would be best way. What are the internal features that discount IWI?

Do any comparable neighbours have 2 storey garden buildings? If not it would be unlikely to be viewed favourably I suspect.

Sounds good to me. You can normally get the amount you need pretty accurately especially if you have 5 pours before the last one. And you can order a set amount of concrete plus - so if you need some more then they will deliver what you need. Maybe worth checking with the concrete company.

or get some cardboard and make a template

I had a similar issue and ended up with an extra step (sizable, not just like a stairway step) up to the door as I think a 200mm step would be a bit much. Maybe set up a the step with whatever is to hand to get a feel for what is and isn't acceptable.

Spray foam or bonding.

I got mine from my local Buildbase - cheaper than any internet price remarkably! I have an account so maybe that helps.

I'm looking to minimize a timber frame wall between bedroom and bathroom/landing. It is about 5m long with door in middle and two walls at right angles either side of the door. No need for sockets in the wall, except a light switch. If I was to try and use 50 x 75mm timber on its side so the depth was 50mm, 15mm soundbloc plasterboard each side and 50mm acoustic R45 slab, would that: 1. be sufficient structurally? 2. be sufficient acoustically? (if not what if I added 2mm acoustic rubber matting?)

Apparently so! I've been asked for one by Oxford City Council on a 2 year HMO license. I have a certificate book for fire alarms but much of that has stuff regarding larger more complex systems. Anyway I have booked in someone to do it for £50 so will see what he does..

Does anyone know what exactly is included in a fire alarm test certificate for a small HMO (4 bed , 2 story, grade D rated)? The obvious things to me are: battery check fire alarm unit checked/cleaned/tested - including testing that smoke and heat engage relevant alarm suitability of existing fire alarms and locations record of any false alarms from tenants clear signs for what to do/who to call in case of emergency and maintenance issues ensure building structure still suitable for escape route Am i missing anything?

I know plasterboard is cheap Dave but wouldn't that lead to quite a bit of wastage. Not sure I could justify that for something that should never show.

I would - don't see a problem with it so long as you have good fixing.

I see Dave, thanks. The CU placement ideally goes in the space above the shower - its a vaulted barn roof with access from a mezzanine/bed level so will have room to get cables in.

1 - is it ok to have a Consumer Unit located directly above a shower ceiling? 2 - is it ok to have ring mains cables/ 24 volt transformers in ceiling void above shower? 3 - cant seem to upload a picture so i will try and explain this one - ring main has sockets on two side walls and the cable runs at socket level along the middle wall: is it ok for there to be no socket on the middle wall and for the cable run to considered a safe zone?

Bits of wood embedded in the wall make fixing a bit easier.

Sorry not very clear - by radial I just meant similar to a single radial electric cable run where one cable to the first socket, then a cable from that socket on to the next, etc rather individual cable runs to the main input (which I understand is radial as well !) Thanks for info Jeremy I will think on!

If I am wanting two or three ethernet sockets in a small office/studio does one take a different cable back to a patch bay for each socket or can they be run in a radial fashion?

That is most helpful Dave - the three core being additional to the main feed makes sense. And using 1mm everywhere is good to hear as I have seen some pretty busy back boxes!