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Also - would it be ok to put an equal t where the first 90 degree is and branch right for sink tap and put the outside tap feed on the left (before the dishwasher)? Or should the internal pipe work all follow after the outside tap?

Yes it isn’t great! And one of the reasons I want to sort it out. I’m also getting rid of the waste pipe behind as it is for a sink that was never used - should make it easier. Should I use copper pipe from outside all the way to the isolator and then plastic from there?

As the title suggests I am going to fit an outside tap. The mains comes into a separate boiler room (with pressure restrict or) and then splits to 3 feeds into the house (all with isolators in the boiler room). One of the feeds comes in under the kitchen sink as shown in the picture. Plan is to branch off the incoming 15mm just after the first 90 degree bend and before anything else. I understand I need a double check valve before it goes through the wall. Is it necessary to put an isolator in as well given that I can easily isolate this supply in the boiler room? anything else relevant? Does it matter if the pipe through the wall is level/sloping up or down? any major difference between outside taps?

I would say that the benefit of insulating internal pipes is limited (coming from someone who lagged the lot religiously!). I guess there is some benefit for the hot pipes but only if taps are being used reasonably close together in time as otherwise the heat just escapes into the house.

Too true. But why does it follow that we should accept being tracked in every other sphere of life?

Speak for yourself! I shall resist all such change. I'm with those above who are skeptical of the benefits of such things. I mean I can't even understand why anyone would want google or amazon or whoever having a permanent audio/video feed from various parts of my home.

You just have to get windows that are large enough. Mine are a little too high for regs so I have to put in a permanent shelf/step up for access.

I had a garden studio shed built out of SIPs including the floor and installed by a couple of Canadians where it is more common. They just put in some concrete piers and built off that. I didn't worry about vermin underneath and didn't have a problem (or maybe I just didn't notice the damage being done!). Anyway if the concrete base isn't already installed I'd definitely do that - much cheaper and provides the ventilation it needs.

Any recommendations? For me ideally it would be able to reverse for cooling and have simple controls in the 5kw range.

Normally Mvhr doesn’t move enough volume of air to be considered useful in heat redistribution.

No, I often get called by landlords to pat test a brand new item. But Temp is still right?

Is it not a regulation to have an accessible 3 pole isolator? If so how do you keep tenants from it?

I always thought this whole thread is a weird form of therapy for us all!

Ask Zoot?

When I get a chance I’ll check it is still working - interesting I had assumed it is working but I guess it is possible it’s not.

I’ve got an issue with mould growth in a Brink Mvhr unit. The extract fan has considerable mould on it. None in the ductwork/ manifold before it. The extract vents upwards (not ideal I know no) to a pitched roof cowl. So I presume the wet warmer air is condensing near the roofline and coming back down into the Mvhr unit. The ductwork is all insulated/eps ducting. the unit has been installed for about 5 years. I had the same problem when I last took it apart for a proper clean and I had to remove similar mould from the fan. I can see some mould in the heat exchanger on the extract side as well. given that both supply and extract go upwards through the roof can anyone suggest anything to help with the situation? More insulation around the duct to roof cowl?

Having a bit of bother with the main water in to a barn conversion. I think the leak is from the stopcock - not from the compression joints but where the tap section (sorry don’t know technical term!) meets the main bit. See the picture where my finger is pointing. is that a likely place for a leak (stopcock is brand new)? I’ve tried tightening it but not sure I can go any more but there still seems to be a little leak. Any suggestions?

it was a cheap shot I admit- I don't have a magic solution! But it really does seem poor for a scheme that already has low supplier take up to be a really slow payer to the suppliers.

It appears that suppliers are having big problems getting paid months after the work has been done - is it yet another quality government outsourcing success! https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2021/jan/28/green-homes-grant-uk-standards-body-calls-on-government-to-pay-up

boards should be glued down and screwed. expanding PU glue ideally. think there are some spray foams designed for this job as well. this sort of thing - https://www.stick2products.co.uk/products/chipstick-d4-liquid-pu-foaming-chipboard-adhesive

Seriously Zoot - just do what Dave has asked multiple times and turn all radiators off but a rad in a cold room. Make sure you have temperature readings of that room so you know the current baseline (both room temp and rad temp as good as you can). Compare with how the temperature measurements you get when only this rad is getting heat. Report back to us with the figures before and after. It really is easy to do and pretty quick to get the results back. I wouldn't start any process of 'going up the chain' (which I understand you are loathe to do) until you have done this.

I think it is fair to say that there are a lot of us on here struggling with this!

Ok ok. Understand that. In fact thats the first reply ive understood in ages. Apart from being called a c@@@. I understood that. So if you have understood maybe you could actually have a go at what he is suggesting! turn all rads down except for a cold room and see what temperature the room and radiator get .

Or, install the door as you want. When it comes to final inspection take the whole door off and put back when they’ve left!

So , third time lucky - have you checked if the rad valves on the warmer rooms are fully open?