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Ubink do a bunch of different ones. http://www.ubbink.co.uk/products/Roofing/Roof-vents-terminals.aspx

So I bought a toilet seat, came to fit it and can't seem to work out if it is just a poor design. In the picture you can see that the level of the pin into which the toilet seat bracket fits is higher than the bracket itself. So if I fit it the seat will not be resting flat onto the toilet bowl - just the front will be resting on the toilet and all the weight at the back will be on the bracket (not the white spacer/support on the left of the picture). Is it just another poor design?

Zoot - I can understand your misunderstanding of the phrase 'balance the radiators' since it is open to misinterpretation. What I can't understand is how you react once it became clear that you didn't understand it right - if I realized I did not understand something I would, as Declan suggested, do a quick google search and do a little work myself to find out what it meant. If after doing that you still don't understand sure go ahead and ask for an explanation here. Some things are more complicated to make sense of but I think after a little research in your own time (minutes only of it) you would have understood. All too often you expect someone here to explain things to you when you could be doing some of the leg work yourself. Rant over! So - have you found out if the radiator valves in the warm rooms are fully open?

You’ll be back Peter. Everyone always comes back!

Imagine two rooms with the same radiator size in each room. One room is large and one small. if both rad valves are open fully then they should both get to an equal temperature. But since one room is much smaller it will heat up much quicker and be a much warmer room (assuming similar insulation values). So, in order to get both rooms to a similar temperature you turn the rad valve down in the smaller room so more of the heat being provided by the boiler/ASHP goes to the rad in the larger room. This rad will be hotter in order to ‘balance’ the system. Of course it is normal to account for room size when deciding on radiator size so my example is a bit extreme but hopefully you get the point. So for your house it would be normal when trying to balance the system to turn the rad valves right down on any rooms that are getting warm and making sure the cold rooms have fully open valves. You should notice a difference in temperature between the rads once the heating has been on a while. In the workshop (which gets warm I believe) can you tell us how open the rad valve is (fully open, 75%, 50% or whatever)?

I have a burner and Mvhr and it works fine. Burners are much more efficient than an open fire - why the insistence on it?

I can see how a plastic plug will hold the insulation to the wall but what is securing the battens?

i like the shower with high drain - akin to the swimming pool foot wash!

Electric ones don’t break down as much! But for more hardcore cutting (excuse the pun) petrol can’t be beat.

Sorry not a detailed response to your last post but some few thoughts - noise: install a sound attenuator on both supply and exhaust - kitchen extract as an extra not needed if you go for recirculating hood - what air tightness are you aiming for? Ashp sizing will be affected by how airtight it is. If it is a leaky house Mvhr will be less use and you may need rads upstairs. Clearly you appreciate the need for airtightness but does the builder?

Just what I was thinking! If you do decide to render make sure you don't do it in one go. You need to fill in the gaps you are digging out first - throwing the mortar into the gaps with a trowel is the quickest way and gets it into the gaps nicely. Then render once it is a bit flatter.

I reckon you could take that frame out and the brick lintel would go nowhere. I've a couple myself that look a bit like that (maybe even less of an arch on them).

how flat is your floor?

if you have a planer - have a go to see how it feels on a spare bit of wood. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised by how straightforward and satisfying it is! Just make sure you set it up nicely so you can move along in a smooth motion. Really wouldn't take long either.

you can just use a normal planer to do that - they normally have a groove (sometimes more than one) that the right angle of the wood goes into = just tilt the planer to 45 degrees.

Much easier to cope with the height difference at the threshold. Could put a wooden strip across on a slight tilt. I think it would be madness to try to raise the parquet for that height difference.

What temperature is the the water that is called for the radiators set to? Have you bought a cheap thermometer yet?

Bit of bleach to rub it down helps

Good to know David - I'll go with the one Tony recommended.

do you mean the shed felt in the link I put in the first post or the 1F that Tony recommended?

I’d contact any local Brickie contractors and see if they need a labourer to mix up. You could offer to do a few days for very little to see how it goes and to see if you like it. You might get lucky and find someone happy to let you practise on the job in between mixing up.

Good point Jilly. I’ve a few bats flitting about but not living in that barn right now!

this sticks very well onto blocks and can then be rendered over https://www.ecomerchant.co.uk/pro-clima-contega-solido-sl.html

looking at getting some bituminous roofing felt to go under some double roman pantiles on an old elm framed barn. It is an open sided garage with no insulation in roof so the underside of the felt will be visible. Thinking roofing felt might look better aesthetically than a modern membrane. Any advice of different types of felt? Is something like this: https://roofstores.co.uk/iko-56045000-shed-felt-10m-x-1m-black designed to be draped between 400mm rafters?

And what is the benefit of being on a single RCBO ? Is it just to reduce chances of it tripping unnecessarily?