ProDave

What is the scope of the work? £150K sounds a lot if it is just supply and erection of a timber frame.

I have just got one. They do seem to work. Always before I have sharpened tooth by tooth with a file attacking the inside of each tooth. These work by grinding off a bit of the outside of the teeth and do indeed seem to work. Note they expect your bar to have two holes in the end of it. Mine only had one, so I had to drill a second hole.

You can do what I have done, Import the PME earth from the remote meter box, (My SWA incoming cable glands directly into the metal consumer unit.) AND run a 16mm earth cable to a convenient point to an earth rod somewhere around the house. This is just suplimenting A PME system (remember PME stands for protective MULTIPLE earthing. It is a static caravan where you must not import the PME earth and that must only have it's own earth rod.

Yes, I post facts only in that thread, but I could not honestly recommend that model to someone. You have to understand I got mine through a very round about route at a very low price, so I don't have much come back and accept the "issues" because I got it so cheap. If I had paid anything like full price I would have been fuming.

Yes use 10mm earth for everything, it's what you need in the house for bonding water, gas etc.

I knew the hot wire thing works for polystyrene (but oh the stink) I for some reason thought PIR had a much higher melting point and it would not work.

That's neat that is. Well done.

I will counter this. There are in fact only a few non load bearing internal walls. I built all of them myself first, before the floor went down or the ceiling went up. so yes a lot more cutting of floor boards and plasterboard and more dwangs to catch the edges. But nothing creaks or groans. As an electrician I HATE it when the joiner wants the ceiling up before the internal walls go in. It usually ends up asking them to mark where the wall will be so I can leave cables hanging out of the ceiling. Then the wall arrives and it is not where marked, so you have to cut holes in the ceiling to thread the cables out where they really should be. It always ends up as a dogs breakfast for everyone, all for the sake of not cutting the plasterboard edges.

Yes a combi sops heating the heating when it is heating water. Inmost houses you would not even notice that has happened. Personally I am not a fan of a combi boiler but I do like a good shower, and I have been in enough houses with a poor combi boiler where the shower goes cold if someone else turns a hot tap on.

The white one is ceramic and is an HRC (High Rupture Current) fuse which means it can interrupt a high fault current without failing. The glass ones might crack or explode if the fault current was that high.

Here is my suggestion. I hate, as in really really hate, flat roofs. To take the small gable away, and make it a big flat roof I think would look just wrong. How about make the whole lot over both dormers a low pitched sloping roof, sloping from the existing ridge down to the gable edges. It will be too low for tiles but something like box profile or standing seam would do it. I would strip it all bare, replace any all the rotten wood and re frame it with decent insulation and put the pitched roof on. I wouldn't want to attempt that without scaffold.

So where is the Oops? Looks like you have purchased a decent quality kitchen for a good price, so what's oops about that?

I doubt the space over a single garage is big enough. double garage perhaps.

So this is all about access and parking to the REAR of your house? I would demolish the southern half of the garage, leaving a clear driveway through to the end of your existing garden, where you can make parking / garaging as you want. Alternatively a brick wall down the centre to divide it into 2 garages and put a garage door in the back wall of the half you are keeping so you can if you wish drive straight through. you could even extend your half to a double length garage. Then sell on the bungalow with little more than a tidy up with a single garage.

Assuming you are using 25mm mdpe, it won't get damaged by burying it directly. It's used for most incoming water supplies with little more than a bit of sand to protect it from any stones in the ground.

T2A usually means time lag. So yes it is the right fuse. So 3 fuses have blown. Time to look for the fault that is causing them to blow. Is that leaking "Y valve" (I assume you mean 3 port motorised valve?) leaking such that any electrical parts of it are getting wet? Or the water dripping on any other electrical items?

I would get up a ladder with a slow running hose pipe to see where it is getting in. Starting above the staining above that window.

If it has to be a fire rated door, how is an individual chippy going to certify it as a fire door if he makes it from scratch? Surely it has to be bought as a fire door and installed to manufacturers instructions.

Why does the rainwater harvesting tank overflow need pumping and what can't that be in 110mm?

I am afraid I am a butcher when it comes to gardens. I don't have the time or inclination for flower beds and weeding them. I generally only have 3 gardening tools, a mower, a strimmer and a chain saw. At the last house we had a vegetable plot, but that too needed constant weeding, and the quality of what we produced disappointing, mainly due to the poor soil and high water table, even making it as a raised bed it was nearly always too wet. But the lawn has been mowed and trimmed a lot more regularly this year than most. I do miss the well drained light soil we had when down south, almost anything would grow in that.

Hi and welcome. Have you considered rebuilding the bungalow as your forever home and selling your existing one?

Ask for a full quote. that will give you all the prices. That will need to be a large cable for that run, something like Wavecon 95. I have never seen accurate prices but it is about £50 per metre, so there is likely to be £6500 worth of cable. You present house has a single transformer just for your one house. That will likely need to be swapped for a bigger transformer.

Post the whole quote. Is a new transformer needed for example?

At least one power cable and one control cable. It is very much dependant on make. I have a 50mm duct through my wall. Two 20mm conduits pass through that, one for power and one for control cables.

I would question everything. Ask WHY OR have subcontracted it? Ask about the £3000 alloctaed to each house? If it just has to cross the road straight into a cabinet, £3000 should cover that if they are too stubborn to share a trench with other utilities. Even start from scratch and talk directly to BT about a new connection? What most of us found is OR are a terribly hard company to deal with, but when you finally get their attention, the local guy on the ground is really helpful and once you have his contact details to deal with him directly things work a whole lot better.