macmac

The body colour of the original fuses was white, and my replacement was green, and they didn't change colour.

Yes, its the motorised valve, I've checked all of the electrical connections, eg: valve, pump, timer & connection box, and they all seem OK.

I would welcome some feedback on Combi Boilers. There’s seems to be a long standing debate that some say the heating goes cool when the hot water is running. Especially when you run a bath, or if you had a shower run off the combi. It’s seems that you have to have a boiler with the right LPS (hot water litres per second) but then to get that it seems you need a much more powerful heating as well?

Fuse types Whats the difference between a slow blow fuse & a anti surge fuse? We had a new (system) Worcester Greenstar 18 Ri Central Heating Boiler, fitted 8 years ago. It started with a leaking Y valve in the airing cupboard, which is inconvenient, but in the current CV climate it was bearable. The other day the boilers power whent off. I pulled it apart, and followed the fault guide in its installation booklet, which said to start by checking 2 fuses. The first mains fuse inside the boiler, had failed, so I replaced it with a spare that was included inside the boiler. It ran fine for about 5 days, then because the weather was hot (remember that?) I reset the timer to stop the heating coming on in the morning, so now it was just heating the water. Later that day, I went to turn on the heating, and the fuse failed again. I tried a new fuse from my old supply of fuses, and that failed instantly. The book says this fuse is a SLOW BLOW, and it's marked: [F] T2AH250VP My replacement is labeled: T2A / 250 So is my replacement fuse OK ?