ProDave

I suspect the issue is the floor make up between the new and the old. The new floor will have been built with proper amounts of insulation. The old floor will probably have less. Did you see what they did to the old room by way of adding insulation under the floor before laying the pipes? The sollution is likely to be to raise the water temperature by adjusting the blending valve on the manifold, and then slowing down the flow rate to the new rooms so they don't heat up too fast wile leaving the flow rate to the old room as high as possible.

I think people are confusing "zones" and "loops" It is normal to make up anytihing other than very small rooms from a number of different loops of pipe. 13 such loops in a large house in not unreasonable. But this does not mean each loop is individually controlled. It is common for each room to have it's own thermostat, and this is what is usually called a "zone" So the thermostat in the living room may control the water flowing to 2 or 3 loops of pipe at once. An alternative strategy is with a modern house being so well insulated is just control each floor as a whole from a single room thermostat.

Yes overly complicated, Why not just have one "green" dial on something like gridwatch, so you just have to look at a web page (no app, no sign up, no registering) to see how green the grid is at that instant?

Our village hall is heated by a GSHP from a borehole and it does not stop working in winter.

At least someone is thinking about ow to usefully use the heat generated by mining BTC rater than just paying to remove the waste heat from a building.

Noise compared to what? I keep saying, My ASHP probably makes about the same noise as the roar of an oil boiler burner, except the ASHP noise is outside so does not bother me. The only time it might bother me is sitting in the garden in the summer, but if it's warm enough to sit outside, it would not be heating the house, just the hot water, and you could go and turn it off and let it heat the water at a different time if that bothered you.

Another that looked at the 2 options. What i found was GSHP the price doubled when you added the collector pipes and fittings and the brine to fill them with. And the brine has a finite life so an ongoing maintenance / replace schedule. And GSHP puts the noisy compressor inside your house vs an ASHP which puts the noisy bit outside. I was doing a DIY install so no RHI and materials as cheap as I could source them so that probably made more difference to the overall cost than a paid for install perhaps? My ASHP carries on working all winter including the one night this year it got down to -17, so stop worrying they won't work in cold weather.

No the only requirement is not to overload the cable. In this case the radial circuit is fed from a 16A MCB so no problem just extending it in 2.5mm cable. You could wire an entire radial circuit fed from a 32A MCB as long as you used 4mm or 6mm cable,

In the context of motors, I much prefer the term "Variable Speed Drive" or VSD. It is unambiguous and clearly describes the function, to operate a motor at different speeds.

This Legionella ting is really only a thing if you have private (not mains) water, and the hot water is stored in a vented tank. Treated mains water and an unvented of water tank and there really is no risk. In any event this reg does not stop you storing very hot water, it just requires the fitting of a thermal mixing valve to blend the very hot water with some cold water to deliver the correct temperature to the tank.

i and welcome. Which part of the Loch? not far from me.

Smoke alarm is too close to the corner.

IPX0 is NO resistance to water (first digit is resistance to a solid object e.g a finger, second digit is resistance to water) So I would guess they have a perforated case and any splash of water could get in and upset the electronics. do you have a picture of them?

A Howdens quote is an opening offer to start the negotiations. You will almost certainly get a better deal going to a stone supplier directly for the worktop.

Another "solution" looking for a "problem" It would be interesting to hear one, but my gut says it is not going to be up to my standards.

Beware of bathroom shops. When we looked, I found the one in Inverness wanted to charge almost 3 times the price for multipanel compared to Jewsons price. That's why the advice is not to buy a package.

New CU is fine. Lights should be able to go on a new CU wit RCD's or even better on their own rcbo. The no earth on the ligts means you cannot use any class 1 light fittings or switches.

The replacement water boiler arrived today, very prompt service, and I have just fitted it and it's working. For anyone reading this, it's a Lamona branded boiling water tap from Howdens, the water boiler was badged Redring, but it turns out it is made by ProBoil. The original one was a Proboil 2 and the replacement is a Proboil 2X Their website is here http://www.proboil.co.uk/

On the ground floor, do not bother with any UFH in the entrance hall and stair well. From the past 2 properties, I found those loops almost never turn on, it is an internal space and only a tiny bit of external wall to lose heat. Instead, all those pipes that pass through the hall to get to their final rooms, spread those out at 200mm centres rather than bunched up, and that will give the entrance hall all the eating it is ever likely to need.

Hi and welcome. Moving from the flatlands of Cambridge to the flatlands of Caithness you should feel at home. Plasterers are a rare breed up here, it is far more common for plasterboard just to be taped and filled up here.

Are you miss understanding the purpose of noggins? You seem to be talking of adding them to stop the bend in the 18mm floor covering, which is inadequate and should be 22mm for 600mm centres. The real purpose of noggins is to stop the joists twisting and so reduce the sag along the length of a joist.

So the issue is a bedroom that is so well insulated, it warms up over night with the heat from the occupants. We found that upon first occupying our new house. Part of the issue is the calculated decrement delay was in the order of 13 hours so on a typical day with maximum heat around mid day, the peak internal temperature from that occurs in the small hours, no doubt adding to the bedroom warming overnight observation. Our solution is simple. Open the bedroom window and en-suite window a little at night and let the cool night air in. It only becomes a problem when the night temperature does not drop below 20 degrees, something that does not happen very often up here.

Peter's suggestion is the bees knees but means crawling under to fix the PIR. A half way house might just be to fix battens across underneath the posi joists to support the existing PIR dropped down to the bottom, and use Earthwool as the infill above the PIR. You want te whole floor up to do this properly. Then an air tight membrane all joints taped over the top before putting the floor back down again. P.S Posi joists would not have been my choice. I would ave chosen Engineered I beams. They then are easy to fit a bottom panel of OSB that just drops in onto the bottom chord and you fill with insulation, no web section to have to fill. (that paragraph for the benefit of anyone thinking of using posi joists in a similar situation)

Yes this is a real return transom https://www.scaffolding-direct.co.uk/used-kwikstage-4ft-return-transom.aspx And this is how you use it https://www.avontus.com/blog/how-to-add-a-return-transom-to-a-kwikstage-corner/

There are at least 2 different designs of Kwikstage Transoms, the ones you have pressed out of sheet steel as you have there, and some are made of two steel angle sections and welded together at the ends. I have always viewed them as completely interchangable. I have not seen this "return transom" you mention, do you have a picture?