ProDave

Looks great. My guess is all "your" kit was added after the meter was in? I suspect if you put all that kit in the empty box first then waited for the DNO to come and fit the meter they would have had a hissy fit. P.S the reason I dislike double pole Henley's is I found one once damaged. The web separating the two blocks is not very thick and I found a broken one where the two blocks were very close indeed to touching each other. Just keep an eye on that and treat them carefully. That is never going to be an issue with singles.

Try these people https://gsi-insurance.com/get-a-quote/household-insurance/#gf_10 Several of us have had good quotes and insured or "non standard construction" houses with them and certainly in my case I was happy with the price. Whatever you do, you are best off going through a broker, they know the market and who will insure what. My entirely timber house, with a burn running through the garden and willow trees within 7 metres turned out not to be a problem at all to insure.

Then there is the debate about where to put the "middle" hinge. I put mine, in the middle, but look at most office installs and the third hinge is a long way above the centreline, often not very far below the top hinge. That must all be about weight. The top hinge(s) are in tension, i.e. the weight of the door is trying to pull the screws out, so 2 hinges near the top spread the weight over more points. The bottom hinge is in compression so unlikely the screws are in danger of pulling out.

When you need that much kit, it is far better to put two standard meter boxes side by side, one for their stuff and one for yours, as in @MikeSharp01 post above.

If there is room in the meter box I would do it,. You split the tails with a pair of single pole 5 way henley blocks (those black things bottom right of first picture above) I hate, and never use the 2 pole henley blocks Dangerous things imho. The split tails feed into a 2 way RCD mini consumer unit then out to your outside stuff. Ig it is feeding a socket I would use a 16A mcb. The big BUT here is to do this you need to be competent and understand how to isolate the tails out of the meter in order to do this safely. That is the bit where you are probably better off getting a sparky to do it.

That's just bonkers. That would have me firing an email to the CEO of the company and say "the plans are there on your design tool if you want the business YOU convert that to an order."

Normal wiring regs. It is only a special location if it contains a bath or shower, so no special requirements for a room with a wc, no different to a kitchen.

Ask your BC inspector how large it needs to be to be classed as a "landing" and make it that big?

Another vote for 3. And you only want to do this once so get decent ball bearing hinges.

Reason for non compliance would be all stairs must be same rise and going. Nothing wrong with the wrap around stair if it was the same rise and going as the rest.

Hi and welcome That looks like it should be on Grand designs. Best of luck.

Well the job is done. What a morning of bodgery / adaptation. I bought the second one in my first post. As expected, I had to cut off the two "pips" on the bottom and it located using the two side notches for location. (bodge #1) As expected the body of this one is 2mm shorter than my original, and the locating ring would not clamp it down. I had to make a spacer washer. I found a large 2mm thick rubber washer and cut my spacer from that. (bodge #2) Next issue was completely unexpected and not mentioned as a "selection parameter" anywhere that I saw. In these, the shaft rotates (to select hot or cold) and tilts (to select flow rate) My original, the shaft tilts from lets say 10 degrees one side of vertical to 10 degrees the other side of vertical. The new one tilts from vertical to say 20 degrees off vertical. So clearly the tap handle mechanism is now offset and does not fit on. That one was a real challenge. I ended up filing 2 sides of the shaft to give it the angle I needed, which of course meant the shaft was now too thin across one dimension so I had to make a flat spacer to pack out the now correct angled shaft, to make it square again. (bodge #3) Then, due to a slight change in geometry, the microswitch in the tap handle mechanism did not work, I had to reposition the microswitch slightly, which involved a sharp knife and araldite. (bodge #4) Having re fitted it, the original leak has gone (gross leak from tap body) but only to reveal a slower leak from where the hoses join on at the bottom. That one I doubt I can fix so it will be a new tap eventually, but for now a cup can collect the drips.

There is your problem. ONE set of tails goes to the garage, which is where the solar PV power is coming from. The other set of tails goes to the house CU which is where most of the house loads are consuming power. You need to find the single set of tails after the summation point. It would be most unusual to actually have 2 sets of tails exiting the meter directly, so you probably have one set of tails out of the meter and then split with henley blocks or something similar. THAT is where your current probe needs to fit. Can you post a picture of that bit (not seen any pictures yet) At the moment your iboost is either seeing the generated power OR the consumed power, depending where you have put the clamp, but it has not yes seen the summation of the two.

Firstly there is something wrong with your meter or the way you are using it, it most certainly will NOT put 450V into the immersion heater between L and N. What it probably is doing is either phase angle firing our burst firing to regulate the power going into the heater, That might be confusing your meter? Who installed it? Can you post some pictures of the units in particular the placement of the current clamp that measures import / export.

No difference between hot or cold weather or stove lit or not. When it rained, the drip started pretty quick, so I am surprised sitting for a long time on the roof with the hose did not find it. I want a proper downpour of rain right now to see if it will leak again.

Dealing with a heat wave is a complex issue. Just turning the heat recovery "off" may not solve the problem. If the outside air is hotter than inside, then with no heat recovery, you will just be drawing warm air in to further warm the house. Think of "heat recovery" as "heat equalisation" as the heat exchanger does not know if it is supposed to be heating or cooling, only that it wants to equalise the temperature of the two airflows. If it is hotter outside than in, leaving the heat exchanger in circuit will cool the incoming air a bit to make it closer to the cooler inside air. Unless you are going to install some form of active cooling, we still find the best solution is shut the house up in the day to keep the heat out, and over night when it is cooler, open as many windows as you can to purge the house overnight with cooler night time air.

Almost 3 years ago, I fitted the wood burning stove and it's flue, detailed here All was fine until last winter, when every time it rained, there was a drip drip drip of rainwater coming off the sloping section of flue above the mezanine floor in this picture The water appears to be running down the outside surface of the flue pipe and dripping off the top or bottom of the sloping section in that picture. I have put off investigating as my own roof ladder is shorter than the roof so to use that means putting up a scaffold tower to reach up the roof from the platform. Today I borrowed a longer roof ladder so it can go up without scaffold, then spent some time on the roof, first with a watering can, then later with a hose, wetting the flue pipe, all the joints, the flashing where it goes through the roof, wetting the tiles above and to the sides of the opening. The hose has been running over an hour (and is still running now on the base of the flashing) and not a drop has been seen inside. What next? give the borrowed roof ladder back and wait for the next real rain? If it were my own long roof ladder it would be staying in place for some time. Just how do you find and fix a leak that has gone away?

I always use 1mm for lighting. You will need to feed something stiff through first and use that to pull it through usually. Can you not get onto the unused / unwanted leg of conduit and unscrew it? That will give you the side hole you want to exit the t&e cable.

I had this problem with my own ASHP when I first installed it, except the flow rate I was aiming for was quoted in L/Min. First thing I did was buy and fit an in line flow meter so I could measure the flow rate I was getting. Then I solved it by fitting a second in line pump, so now i have the Wilo pump built into the ASHP and a Grundfoss pump in the plant room in the Flow line to help things along a bit. I never did sit down and calculate what flow I should have got and what pipework I would have needed to change to achieve it. Fitting the second pump seemed the easier option.

Yes you can do that. Rather than cut the conduit, just pull them out at the first accessible junction box. You really should terminate them in the conduit box and put a lid on it, which really means drilling a hole in a lid and fitting a grommet, or getting some plastic conduit box lids.

Altering a conduit system is not easy, especially if you can't get full access. If you are planning to cut conduit and alter it still with the cables in, and you think you can cut the conduit without damaging the cables, then best of luck with that, do let us know how you get on. And beware of cutting the conduit and then leaving part of the circuit without an earth. I would seriously suggest rewiring the whole lighting circuit, or you will end up with a rats nest at best / major bodge at worst. And when the customer says they want down lights in a lath and plaster ceiling, I walk.

I am not convinced that is the best cylinder for you. Look how high up the heat pump input coil is. You have a 210L tank but it has a "dedicated solar volume" of 60L so when heated by the heat pump, you are only going to get 150 litres of hot water. It is less surprising that you ran out of hot water when you realise that. It is quite possible with the temperature probe location that there could only be 100L of hot water left before the heat pump even knew about it. Moving the heat pump temperature probe to the lower pocket would not work, because the heat pump would never heat that bottom part of the tank so would never be satisfied. The solar thermal system usually comes with a self contained controller that monitors pipe and cylinder temperatures.

That shows the tank temperature was 47 degrees and flow and return from the HP both 22, so the HP was probably idle. Tank temperature had dropped to 33 degrees, water flow temperature out from the HP is now 43 degrees and water return temperature to the HP is 36 degrees (so delta T 7 degrees) The heat pump has turned on and is busy re heating the tank. There is a setting somewhere for DHW hysteresis, which is how much the hot water has to fall from your set point of 55 degrees before the HP turns on to re heat it. you might need to adjust that. 20 minutes showering at 6L per minute was 120 litres of water. What size tank? It would have to be a small tank to run out of hot water jst from that shower. Can you post a good picture of the hot water tank and give us details of it's size etc? Where is the hot water probe? you will see a thin wire going into a thermostat pocket somewhere on the tank. This needs to be as low as possible, if there is more than one thermostat pocket, make sure it is in the lowest one. When I first fired mine up I had the probe in the higher pocket, which meant you tank would be half empty before the HP even knew it was starting to run out of hot water, effectively halving the capacity of the cylinder.

(almost building related) Just back from the first trip away in out new (to us) caravan. and come back with a list of faults to fix, the most pressing being all the mixer taps leak. I have dismantled the worst one, the basin tap. It appears to be based on standard cheap domestic plumbing and appears to use a non thermostatic, i.e. manual 25mm mixer cartridge. The original cartridge is made my "Mixar" but putting "mixar" into an ebay search gixes 0 results, so looks like I am not going to get an exact one. So I then start searching for generic 25mm mixer cartridges and find they are not all the same with some important but subtle differences. This one is the closest I have found https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273823021306?epid=1358563534&hash=item3fc11fb8fa:g:gVUAAOSwEDBdbp9B That's a very useful listing with a lot of dimensions and mine matches those pretty well. The issue appears to be how the cartridge locates into the tap body. This image shows it well It seems the standard 25mm mixer cartridges locate into the tap body by having two outward "pips" on the bottom that presumably locate into two holes in the tap body. Mine does not have those. Instead mine locates to the tap body by two notches on the outer edge of the body. That picture has 2 notches also but top and bottom, the notches on mine are 90 degrees to that. So that one is not going to work. I have found one that is close, this one. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/265077498057?hash=item3db7d9a0c9:g:vUcAAOSw4tNgQhu1 That still has the two locating "pips" but also has the notches on the outer edge in the place I need them. I guess I could carefully cut off the unwanted pips and let it locate into the tap body with the two notches. The "problem" with this one is the main body of the valve is about 2mm shorter than mine. I guess I can insert some form of spacer if that proves to be an issue. But part of me is saying i should not have to be doing all this bodgery, I should be able to just buy the cartridge I want. So I invite the forum to help me find the right one.

We have similar except we want to paint some decking and some timber cladding the same colour. That seems to limit choice somewhat. Only a few suppliers sell decking and "fence" paint the same colour and only in a few colours, mostly brown. So to get the colour we want we had to go to the big orange DIY shed where they can do both in a range of colours at the counter where they mix it. I will let you know when we get around to doing it how successful that was.