TonyT

You don’t wait till the end of the snagging period, you report the defects as they happen and any repairs are carried out under the contract. At the end of the defect period a meeting/walk around on-site is carried out to list anything needing fixed id anything living is supplied such as sedum we generally want a 2 year defect period on this to ensure it will last more than a season. it’s important to agree all this at the start, as it’s bargaining for the builder getting his retention money or worst case walking away( that’s why it needs to be a decent amount to prevent this) these discussions are then negotiated so the builder can foxtrot Oscar as soon as possible.

One joiner to fit everything, otherwise the window fitter will fit stuff and then the next guy will complain about what he did and so on. joiner all day long. and give them a spec of what you want done, so it’s fitted the way you want, so that way no arguments later.

https://www.axis.com/en-gb/products/axis-a8004-ve We use these at work, separate card reader required.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-stopcock-key-250mm/17971?tc=JT5&ds_kid=92700055262507126&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvqWO4bX57wIVvGDmCh3yHwHDEAQYASABEgLlh_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Isn’t there a dedicated door entry unit that can do all this with better connectivity and just forget about the door lock mechanism?

Heras?

https://www.netatmo.com/en-gb/security/doorbell no subscription

Yes, but looking at grand designs, building the dream etc. The one thing lacking in all these shows is H&S.

Just make a note of it in the paperwork, I see no problem with it as Dave says as long as Zs is ok. like the old houses that had a separate Wylex board for the kitchen, when kitchens became fashionable ?

The double pole isolation gives you the benefit of the appliances goes faulty and takes out the MCB/RCBO, you can isolate the equipment and carry on regardless until a repair is sorted.

Just make sure you put the deepest box in the wall possible as it’s a pain connecting grid switches! if you can get 47mm in, it will make live easier.

I wouldn’t have cement mortar any where an old stone build property and at every renovation opportunity take the chance to remove it. Cement mortar traps in moisture, doesn’t breathe, doesn’t allow for any movement. lime mortar allows allows all of that and it’s what the original structure would have been built with. https://www.spab.org.uk/advice/lime you have the internet with the worlds information and you tube videos showing how things can be done. Good luck

It was a quote not an estimate. I would chalk it up to experience and try not to be bitter about it as long as the final product was acceptable.

Remove the moisture and that prevents the problem. they wood treatment you applied won’t do any harm. it’s hard to see but doesn’t look like too much meat of the timber has gone. I would screw a 2x2 down the side to allow for plasterboard repair and help strengthen the existing timber.

No problem until someone decides to join into the ‘water pipe’ cuts through it after turning the water off and gets electrocuted all for ducting , but you would be better off with some 50mm flexi dusting designed for the job.

I’m with number 2 they are looking to address the problem of the rotting/damaged boards and then carry out a repair. trade 1 is effectively sticking a plaster over a cut!

And the led flood lights can be reused later with either a switch or separate Pir controller.

I’m a shower tray with upstand. Multipanel board, with manufacturers adhesive and then a good quality anti bacterial silicone around the perimeter.

Get some cheap led floodlights from B&q. 20watt, string them about appropriately. You really need to illuminate properly to prevent accidents/ poor workmanship!

If you are talking about future proofing a system boiler does that with the hot water cylinder having an immersion back up, use PV to provide power for the immersion. If you have experience of lack of water with a gas based system, it’s not installed properly or you aren’t using it properly. combis for small flats, houses. I have a WB high flow 550, a combi the size of a washing machine, only because I can’t find the space for a cylinder- compromise due to Victorian property

Get a system boiler off the gas, with immersion back up.

Personally I wouldn’t rely on one bolt, single point of failure and would always add 2. that’s just me, for all the cost of the bolts that’s all

What you need depends on your location and the location of the transmitter, strength of transmitter etc i can see the transmitter in the hills, so no need for a amplified unit, just a means of splitting the signal.

I’ve used larch as perimeter edging and nailed it down, works a treat, this was for a driving range and this was the specification that the astroturf supplier recommended.

Wasn’t PV to be 200mm below ridge height? So my memory recalls