TonyT

I think you have more options with mains lights. no need to worry about transformers etc

After the earths are checked, fit a capacitor across the lamp terminals that will dissipate the charge that’s causing the flickering

12.5mm for me all the time. denser, stronger than 9mm, easier to lift without snapping easy to mix and match with 12 mm plywood if you are double sheeting its like sarking board, cheaper thinner boards work , but just cause grief for slater due to bounce.

put a metal plate over the hole to save any future issues. safe plates are cheap, removing plasterboard to fix cables not so. https://www.screwfix.com/p/sabrefix-protecta-safe-plate-galvanised-90mm-x-45mm-20-pack/30038?tc=MC9&ds_kid=92700058021678484&ds_rl=1249407&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIvveM1ZKM7QIVDO7tCh2YvgwYEAQYAyABEgL6WfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

what earthing arrangement are the DNO leaving you?

Agree with ProDave, I took the same approach and flood wired all rooms with Cat6 and Sat cable, as I was rewiring and installing heating so had floor boards up. loads hanging in the Cupboard, terminated as and when required.

I did a lot for a while and can not justify the fluke tester at £10k got this https://cpc.farnell.com/peak/utp05e/atlas-it-network-cable-analyser/dp/IN07477?mckv=sIjS4m0kV_dm|pcrid|450989503080|kword||match|b|plid||slid||product||pgrid|88974634787|ptaid|dsa-847157790233|&CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-KWL&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIpZnendn_7AIV2O3tCh36cAR2EAAYASAAEgJdfvD_BwE I have the cheap and cheerful £10 tester that I bought in 2002 when I sat my MK data training course?

Well the dno don’t have to comply with BS7671 so their installation will end at the box. you will then need a switch fuse and a SWA run to the house lots of variables regarding earthing etc http://www.doncastercables.com/technical-help/ cable sizing calculator link above.

Make sure you use 35mm deep boxes far easier to work with

Maybe because the PV is pushing a higher voltage than the normal mains voltage for it to export to the grid.

Definitely worth it. if you can get PV you are laughing too!

Looks like their wayleave officer messed up, but that’s not your fault keep plying pressure on them

Do you have plenty of ceiling height ie floor to ceiling? it may be easier to strap the underside of the joists to suit plasterboard and use this to run the cabling in

I have a 125 amp single phase changeover switch that I manually operate when we have power failures, it’s linked to a small inverter generator in the garage that is on a commando plug and socket. prone to power failures in my area so this saves us grief. i can go and start the generator in the garage, let it warm up for a minute or 2 and then operate normally. Family know it’s 2kW max so it’s really has central heating, lighting and small power.

Sounds like a good idea! Whats the existing external boiler?

Have a look at Kingspan, yes the insulation people! They supply and install small pumping chambers in lots of different configurations, single pump, dual pumps, float on/off/high level warning etc.

Given the likely age of the installation that has that consumer unit I would be inclined to get the EICR done. this should help advise the condition of the existing wiring to see if it’s suitable for RCD protection and it doesn’t have any latent defects. rcbo/rcds are more sensitive than fuses and it’s not uncommon for a board change to then have a circuit not energise without some further investigation.

Yes 4 upstands mira flights safe shower tray 1200x800 model 1.1697.348.AS mira ascend sliding door no affiliation to any of the companies mentioned

20mm kopex/flexible conduit. cable run in conduit and conduit pushed into duct a short length and then sealed

I installed a raised matki shower tray and enclosure 15 years ago, all good, still all good- it has upstands which are a must for me. matki supplied extra door seals a few years ago, so good to see a product still supported. I’ve recently added a new shower tray , electric shower and door all from Mira.

Have a look at the boiler installation manual, it should advise on proximity of ‘boxing’ in, what access is required for airflow around the boiler, maintenance etc

Write to the energy ombudsman, energy companies are a royal pain

I would take 2x100mm ducts from the electrical area, and add a drawpit, then future garden ducts can radiate from this central location. this will allow for future cabling.

Get an independent quote. you only have to pay the DNO to make the point of connection, other approved contractors will quote have a search for contestable works

new member here, i have 550 cdi, so gone through some troubleshooting before. Would you be able to lower the flow temperature on the heating to a lower figure to help with the UFH issue, appreciate there will be a energy output loss to the Radiator circuit, but thought its worth a try good luck