TonyT

100mm hole through the wall, suitably sleeved with plastic pipe, with fully insulated pipes passing through penetration, not stop and start insulation. cabling through same hole. expanding foam applied, cut back and then taped over.

Nice, the quality on the 20mm wasn’t bad, just the roof boards. im hoping to felt mine this weekend and get some painting done.

Just finishing off a 9x9 feet version myself I have double doors at the front and a side window, glorified shed made out of 20mm T&G boards sold as a ‘summer house’ i binned the crappy roof boards and used some OSB and added extra roof supports to beef the existing, it’s a lot more ridgid

No I was linking to a website for you to find out what you are looking for

https://www.aico.co.uk/technical_support/alarm-siting/

https://www.uksuspendedceilings.co.uk/product/xt24-suspended-ceiling-perimeter-angle-wall-trim/ have a look at this website or Armstrong

150mm

Problem is you don’t push mesh into concrete, you lay mesh first with appropriate packets/depth and pour concrete on top , I see a lot of the push mesh into concrete brigade

My mono block has been down for 15 years and hasn’t moved, simply because it has 4 edges that aren’t going to move so the monoblock doesn’t move, and appropriate sub base installed correctly yes it gets a bit if moss, but either a bit of power washing or chemical application clears it- maintenance is required on most things to keep in good condition

Yes. Brands are not interchangeable

Yes all have to be the same make. https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/EI141RC.html?source=adwords&ad_position=&ad_id=454654373917&placement=&kw=&network=u&matchtype=&ad_type=&product_id=EI141RC&product_partition_id=998831689117&campaign=shopping_5_Percent&version=finalurl_v3&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-diC26Tb7wIVCKp3Ch3hXgVlEAQYAiABEgJM9_D_BwE as an example if the wiring is there, it’s not a big job

probably worth a Structural Engineer designing something for peace of mind

The bottom of the cabinet will start to delaminate as the adhesive melts.. assuming it’s not solid wood of course

Tell them is treated timber, That will be appropriately maintained.

Earth rod(s)at the cabin not difficult, terminate swa cable with stuffing gland to ensure earth not exported.

Sounds expensive, just do it yourself and everyone will talk you through it. You have a cable to the outside anyway so the hard work is done then get someone to test it, by the brick work you have done earlier I think your attention to detail for doing the electrical will produce a good standard

You resin in screwed rod, ( not the fixing you have already used) and tighten down with a nut and washer. you can pack under the steel with https://packersandshims.com/product/pre-galvanised-square-horseshoe-packers-shims/?attribute_pa_dimensions=50mm-x-50mm-x-1mm-x-m12&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI9OPgx-fY7wIVmrp3Ch3_owf1EAQYBCABEgKDS_D_BwE that will let you tighten down immediately and then fill the void with grout.

What’s the power requirements for the new cabin? where is the house in relation to the cabin for getting power? do you have a route for a swa cable run? do you have a new consumer unit with RCD’s?

Keep the gravel, it helps prevents lots of problems, rain bounce past the dpc

The mix should be a bit drier mix than normal, fully filled to the rear of the block

Aren’t blocks 215mm ? can’t you have a run of bricks somewhere to reduce the height?

When pouring grout, pour from one corner to get less air bubbles in the final mix. resin would be better for holes that close to the edge..

They are all clueless, you are as well waiting. I had 2 smart meters booked in for last week, 2 properties, different addresses, 3 doors apart they turned up with one meter.. not the fitters fault. Said only one postcode can be done in a day???

https://thecobbleshop.co.uk/product/whin-dust/ we use a lot of whin dust to flatten out surfaces

if I were thinking what could I get in the car and what was way to lay I would go for floorboards in this situation, easier to handle, manoeuvre, cut and fix down.