TonyT

Insulate pipework with climaflex

Agree 9mm on roof isn’t good. best to double up if you have already bought it

What’s the wall and roof construction, that will determine the best insulation fit cold roof/warm roof!

The charger will need its own circuit, depending on the equipment maybe a type a RCD, if protection is build into the charger an earth rod may not be required. lots to decide. It you really need the existing installation surveyed with the specification of the charger available to make a proper engineering judgement

Sounds like the architect fu@@ed up.

If you aren’t putting in the loo, sink, make sure you at least run some pipework and cabling and have it hidden behind plasterboard so access is easy once you change your mind and minimises disruption to the rest of the building.

I prefer to use the cut offs of the joists as the noggins not 2x2.

So how to you currently heat hot water? do you store hot water?

Change the Watts to BTU it will be easier to find

Efficiency, noise and cost are all variable with each site. but each manufacturer will post info on the first 2.

https://www.justfans.co.uk/acoustic-commercial-kitchen-inline-exhaust-fan-mps-p-2011.html?sort=1a would work but would be noisy just like a commercial canopy.

Met them at a build show and they came across well. I’m 30 minutes away from the workshop, so went to see that it actually existed. in the end got a better and more cost effective outcome by hiring a joiner and building on site.

Is this Claymore Timber in Ladybank?

What about air to air ie similar to an air con unit. wall mounted indoor unit and slab mounted external unit. and any hot water taken care by a point of use heater.

I would mark the position of the studs, gets the electrician in and leave coils of wires at switch drops etc, or indeed feed switches from below if possible so it’s was only light points to worry about , plasterboard then attach partitions.

Best to check out what user controls are in each, as in my opinion aren’t very user friendly at least on the models we work on.

You need to stick to the same manufacturer, if it’s old EBay may have something or post a photo with the info and someone may have old ones kicking about

Just skim the top soil off, stick down some membrane and whack a few inches of hardcore down

Shower tray with upstand and wet wall should equal no leaks. contact Company managing the grant immediately and complain.

How should we know? we don’t know how long the heating is on for, don’t know the occupancy, unit cost, what the air test result result. Etc etc

I agree with Dave, get a competent , even incompetent electrician to do it, it’s a doddle. spend the money on a structural engineer if you must. MCS no longer worth the premium now. self installing 10 panels myself later this year.

Just phone the hire place near you and ask to hire a diamond corer and drill( with a clutch) Make sure it has extension bars to cover the depth of the wall. Waste pipe is 110mm so it has to be a larger diameter than this. you drill a pilot hole then swap to the core drill, drilling the depth of the corer, pull it out, and tip the corer upside down to clear the debris, repeat until through the wall. the drill will have a clutch to stop you spinning around the drill when it jambs.

Fold sandpaper to suit the grooves

The internet.... type in make model and add installation manual.