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CH_18

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  1. Been thinking about the best way to support the frame from the bottom, what about if I fix some angle brackets off the inside reveals. I've added a couple of pics to show. Will this be enough support? Obviously there will be straps also.
  2. Thanks again @craig, appreciate your help. Option 2 (window positioned in the insulation layer) seems to be the way to go. My only issue is now figuring out a way to support the frame at the bottom. I will have the 150mm sill on the bottom but due to the weight and position of the frame (replicated by the piece of wood) the support would not be centered and may cause a cantilever effect (attached pic) Any ideas on how I can support the window? Metal dowels have been mentioned in other threads? Or simply angle iron/brackets? One last question, in normal situations where the frame is sitting on the sill, is this not a massive cold bridge? Or is there some sort of thermal break within the uPVC frame? Not really related but just curious. Everydays a school day 👍
  3. Hi @craig Thanks for replying, top man 👍 Have you got any examples of the above details for me to see, struggling to picture the setup. Has the first detail you attached just got a normal uPVC stub sill? I was hoping to use a 150mm uPVC sill for option 2, do you think aluminium will be better? Suppose it is slimmer and more pleasing on the eye. One last question, if the window is fully in the insulation layer does the window need supporting from the bottom or can you fit windows with straps only? Thanks again for your reply 👍
  4. Hi there, Our sills are not quite deep enough so I have two options below (wood simulating window frame position). I have just placed the sill in position to test fit, DPC's will be going in. See next post for pics... Option 1 (left) Go with a smaller reveal, with a cold bridge and not much overhang on the sill, although still clear of drip groove, which I think looks neater. Or Option 2 (right) Set the window back in the insulation space and utilise a 150mm uPVC sill to cover the flat part of the stone sill. More overhang on the sill but possibly looks a bit naff? (They are just off cuts of slate to replicate colour of sill.) I would really like to have smaller reveals but not sure if the cold bridge is worth the risk? Does it make that much difference? Any input is appreciated. Thanks
  5. As per the title, has anyone got any preference to which metal webbed joist manufacturer they prefer to use? From what I've been told, the mitek posi-joist system allows the designer to use staggered and single sided metal webbing on the design software? Looking at the design I've had it looks like some joists are staggered and not full length, which makes me think could be inferior in strength to the Wolf easi-joists maybe? Any ideas/input would be great, cheers
  6. I would like clarification on this also.
  7. Thanks for the replies everyone ? Yeah I think that's the way we'll be forced to go, strip foundation with b&b floor, followed by 150mm insulation plus screed. Could one option be to back fill with 600mm hardcore, put 50mm of sand in, then 300mm EPS blocks, then approx 200mm concrete? That would get us to around the magic number of 1.2m? Or would that build up not be structurally sound?
  8. Hi everyone, first time poster ? We are due to start groundworks on our build in the next few weeks. We planned to go with a ground bearing slab but after digging some test holes found that theres approx 700mm of top soil that needs to come off he whole plot before starting. To level off the site, the developer had dug out from the high level side of the site and dumped it all on the low side to level it out. (Our plot is in the low side of the site.) From the test holes we worked out from the top of our foundations to our finished floor height will be 1.2m. With 600mm of hardcore in fill that leaves 600mm to be made up with concrete and insulation. Are there any other options to build up the 600mm? I keep reading about EPS blocks, could that be an option? Or is the only option (sounds probable) a beam and block suspended floor? Ideally we'd want to go down the slab route if possible. Having a cold breeze under the house doesn't sound very thermally efficient to me? Thanks in advance ?
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