Oz07

I found the latest one a lot easier. You fill it out online

Once the ducting is in surely the unit could be upgraded in future if found to be underperforming. Bit like a boiler swap?!

My god you two are speaking another language

That's what I wanted. Although wouldnt work in cloakroom. It's done now. Im just going to have a switch above the worktop to boost. No biggie. Separate switches for wetrooms

Hijacking here. @joe90 you sure 50mm aav ok to stop a loo pulling traps? @Nickfromwales almost implies different saying can fit 2no. 50mm

Yeh I thought it was good to see manufacturers manual and confirm tile vents in spec. Does the condensate drain work no matter where in the unit condensation forms then? Ie both sides of heat exhanger? Excuse my Neanderthal understanding of these units. Yes I've made sure ductwork has steady fall but all way back to unit at present

Taking my MVHR ducts out through the roof and am going against couple of things. Firstly it says ducting should fall away from the unit. you can't really manage this with a roof vent no matter how you go about routing the ducting, you would always end up with a bit of a puddle as the roof is pitched and you couldn't 'fall' a duct to a pitched roof. At the minute i've set the ducting up with a slight fall back towards the unit. If any condensation does occur within these ducts and runs back to the unit will the condensate drain be effective or does it only work on the 'internal' ductwork? Second thing is BPC told me my roof tile air vents were unsuitable, despite being expensive and made by the manufacturer specifically for property ventilation, not soil. They put this down to my vents having 12500mm2 and needing 20000mm2 or something. In the end they then said that the exhaust only needs 10000mm2 so that one could be left but the other needed changing. They have sent me one with a cowl over the top. In the manufacturers instructions the unit says it only needs 10000mm2 clear vent for exhaust and intake so my tiles are ok. However no cowl on the intake. I've not had a drop of water come through even with that howling wind this week, the roof tile manufacturers have obviously built these to withstand weather. I would just have to clear any standing snow if that were to happen, although i'm sure snow would gather around a cowl too. Any thoughts? Thanks

Problem is how do we know what grade their made with. When buying timber you might buy c16 or c24 so have an idea. There was a good thread on here prob a year ago which explained benefit of different materials in doors

I've ordered those 20 quid each ones for water. Got an 8 port jg speedfit ufh/radiator manifold at a good price. All up it's 2 or 300 quid. I'd rather this than loads of tees and elbows

I priced up my loft at multiple places but I'm getting a supply and fit job cheaper than I can but the stuff. Around 5quid a metre at 300mm. What's the best price people are getting acoustic will for

5.50 on 12.5mm sq edge. 7.65 on 15mm about 9.50 on sound board

Those 20 quid ones were push fit input also wonder what manufacturer they are and how reliable

These 4 port around 35 exc https://www.heatdirect.co.uk/plumbing/plumbing-manifolds/emmeti-multiplex-sanitary-manifold.html These 4 port around 20 exc https://www.jtmplumbing.co.uk/john-guest-speedfit-c432/john-guest-speedfit-fittings-c167?gclid=CjwKCAiA6vXwBRBKEiwAYE7iS7tJ72FiVrpeaMNJ5YwcCDcO0sF0OvSMFepdXFtKwM99BOnmB4tOPxoCe9gQAvD_BwE Anyone pay less?

@pocster @Triassic Where is the best price for these then? What make?

he wont have a problem with you going wider its upto you. Reccomended overlap 200?

think he meant air change rate being too high? Check the qualifications and if the companies who quoted and designed are indemnified - see if that narrows down the suppliers and layouts? Ie one who is not qualified/recognised massively over speccing?

Do you think pressure regulator nessecary?

also i've been quoted based on 32mm connection which I think incorporates a larger meter feed. iirc someone on this forum had a 32mm feed connected with a smaller meter on the boundary, had photo evidence and got a substantial discount after the works had finished

what did you all do for stop taps? I've gone 32mm to 28mm convertor, 28mm stopgap then will probably step down to 22mm to feed a manifold

I had 25 similar distance was fine. Having 32mm in new place on 10m run because pressure seems crap locally and wanted good flow rate

Dave I think you set the timed boost from the units control panel. Remember reading something about it in the book

Dormus there is info and a wiring diagram in there but electrics is over my head. Looks like I'll just opt for 2 gang switch at bathrooms and separate switch in kitchen no major

First fix sparky tomorrow. I have received seperate boost switches for the MVHR unit. Can I just have the sparky link these to the two lights in the bathrooms? What did you all do in the kitchen? I could either have a standalone switch or is it possible to link to (recirculating) extractor power so when that's in use the boost kicks in?

Is it a case if it had bba when you built then still valid? Surely can't retrospectively withdraw certificates

@joe90 what's your u value? Are you at around 425mm thickness total?