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About gwebstech

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  1. Just to clarify - the £105 was just for the energy calcs rating or did that include the water calcs too? seems really cheap. I think ive paid £600 for all the tests - air/energy/water/fans and another 1 or 2 i think
  2. its the same guy/firm doing all my tests/checks - thats what i meant mate.
  3. wow really? unfortunately for me, my architect has arranged for a firm to come around - they are doing all the tests inc air test etc so im worried he might ask for it and like a tit ive already mentioned it to him ffs. I just assumed they would need the certificates. Like you ive done everything properly, im certain the doors are fully compliant but i just cant prove it which is crap really. If push comes to shove ill have to try and see a way aorund it thanks mate
  4. Hi Im wanting some advice on what actually happens to get your energy performance cert at the end of a job. As far as i know, you have to fill a form in that details the U values of the windows doors etc. Does the firm doing the EPC actually need to see the U value certificates to confirm what values you enter on the form? Im asking as ive come a bit of a cropper - i got my front and side door from a firm, and he gets them door stop international (a big firm near me actually, not some fly by night company). I didnt know then but know now, i needed a certificate to confirm what U value the doors are. Ive asked the guy and he said he hasnt had one, the firm he uses cant send me a copy as its all done online and they cant access his docs as its password protected - data compliance etc - so basically it looks like i m not going to have a certificate for these 2 doors which might leave me up the creek. Im hoping i wont have to swap these 2 doors and get new ones with certificates, the guy i got them form hasnt even replied to my last email. So if the EPC company need them im in a mess, but if ihe doesnt i can wing it. Can anyone shed any light on this process of getting the EPC? thanks
  5. looks nice mate, thats what i was thinking. Just build a stud wall with a recess in it, and i just checked the plasterers price for dot and dab - this wall works out to £88 just to dot and dab! so its a lot cheaper to stud anyway and it will look better. Thanks
  6. Hi all Hope everyone is safe and well. Ive been thinking, before the house im building gets plastered whether i should add some ducting in the walls to run cables for a wall hung tv. Obv theyd have to be slim ducting so as not to make the plasterboard stick out too far, aprt from that i can only think of studding the wall out and then its easier. The other thing im thinking is that this wall would prob be where the fireplace would be so that means the cables need to go at an angle but then that would look odd not having the sky box etc directly under the tv. So what did ou guys do? thanks
  7. sorry, only just seen this - i was just making sure not to get on the wrong side of the BCO that was all, ive clipped the pipes to the blockwork anyway thanks
  8. thanks guys, just as i thought, i cant find anything regs wise BUT the WRAS do say that all pipes in walls must follow certain methods - ie chased in for blockwork, inside studwork etc but why do they bother making this cra p up when no one follows their "advice" and yes NHBC do now say that plastic pipes need to be detectable inside wal
  9. Hi Im trying to find what is/isnt allowed regarding having either radiator or potable water pipes in walls in a new house. I ve seen the regs for chasing into walls but thats not necessarily for water, i know that plastic pipes in walls need detectable metal tape over them but not sure about using copper 15mm running down internal block walls. With your new builds, was this allowed? im sure all house builders use plastic in walls but i dont know for a fact. thanks
  10. Hi Ive been shown guidance from WRAS that says radiator pipes have to be chased into a wall in a new build. But is this what building regs says - ie do the regs supersede what this says? Surely on new builds all big house makers just put plastic behind the dot and dab and they dont chase pipes into the wall? What has happened with you guys new builds? thanks
  11. yes i think so, but i wont be staying there that long
  12. thing is - with an old house even if you dont have FENSA, when you sell you can pay a few £ for an indemnity policy to cover that. For new builds, its a different thing altogether. Im sure i can pay a BCO to come and certify them, but like i say, why should i when ive paid a BCO to sign this house off thanks
  13. thanks mate although my problem now is - how am i going to get these passed as certified?
  14. Hi guys Im building a new house and my building control are also doing the warranty. My BCO has told me he will need a certificate of compliance for the windows and doors. Now whilst im aware of things required, ie trickle vents, U value on glazing, lockable handles etc what i didnt know is that id need a certificate from the manufacturer for all these things inc PAS24 etc Ive fitted the windows and doors myself, my BCO today said that i should have probably used a FENSA or an approved fitter but my understanding (from the planning portal) is that you can fit them yourself as long as they are certified by someone. I was under the impression that with a new build FENSA isnt needed as the BCO is supposed to sign the windows off, my BCO says this isnt his job and fair enough he needs the certification to show that these windows are up to scratch. But the manufacturer doesnt provide PAS24 certification so now i potentially have windows and doors fitted that are not compliant. So my question is: how can i now get these windows and doors shown to be compliant? I am sure that i can pay the council or a building inspector to come and sign them off but then whats the point of having a BCO on my new build when i have to pay another to come and pass my windows? Can anyone help or does nayone have experience of this? thanks
  15. Hi Im just wondering what brands of loft ladders youve used that have helped you pass air tightness tests ive seen a decent loft ladder for about £120 and it says its airtight, but not by how much. Ive seen some others by wellhofer that seem to be really good on the airtightness but theyre a lot more expensive. Im just wondering if you guys had any previous experience because i realise this is just one part of the air test, a house is only as good as its weakest link obviously but if cheaper ones have passed, then i dont necessarily need the more expensive one. thanks for any help