Oz07

I'd be more interested in what the frame is built from and the longevity of this if it was a forever home. Do the high quality window suppliers just use the same size rebate with deeper beading for 2g as opposed to 3g? My nans been in her place over 30 years now. Got the rosewood upvc they put in when renovated before moving in. Changed a few units but the frames still serviceable now. How long are the "good quality" 2g Windows expected to last above the standard upvc product? Got the standard upvc in mine and got a good air test result. I think when it comes to Windows be careful not to overspend and don't believe all the hype.

Same here went with small champher blocks. Not tumbled either I'm not paying extra for my blocks to be chipped up.

I got it in a few seasons.

My friends are hindhead I know it's pretty pricey round there

10k per m2 crazy. Whereabouts is this @joth

Lintels over an 8inch (I used 6) pipe built into the wall. Fill gaps in with compo and crap.

I meant concrete bricks/brickette/clunkers.

Why not introduce 3 course of coursing brick above joists and brick it back in 300mm from bottom of joist, ie around top of chipboard level.

Why wouldn't it. I used some of that board it's nice to cut. You must be a sucker for punishment curved wall on a shower!

I think with regards to access a driveway can serve upto 5 dwelling before the spec needs upping. Check it out I know my last place had this as mine was the 5th

Is it already used for access?! Difficult to argue against if so

I prefer this way. Get double the amount of 75mm

No ufh

I used 200mm eps under my slab was equivalent to 150mm pir from memory but significantly cheaper

I was always led to believe ground bearing slab more efficient than block and beam because the temperature below it is higher. I think warranty companies prefer block and beam but they are dearer and not as simple.

Think question two will to a small extent depend on question 1. Don't discount a ground bearing slab if you do go for strip footings. I personally think separate slab and screed is old hat nowadays. Welcome any way your project should go down well here.

How are you all finishing these warm deck roofs at the edges. I did one recently that was getting on for 400mm thick all in. Cut the ends of the joists so they tapered to 100mm at the end on the eaves as per drawing but still leaves a thick fascia. I see some builders finishing the warm roof at wall insulation point, with a step down to a standard cold flat roof for overhang. Not sure how this effects condensation.

Yes. I'd move it below the slab

Gas the easiest to deal with Leccy ok Water the worst.

Not a bad shout @Gus Potter keeping it simple and doing away with fixings and metalwork. Could make it work to course height

Just use a board way easier.

Re speed skim. Plasterers I know love it for flattening off. @nod?

Prep even more crucial on solid concrete imprinted driveways. Concrete doesn't flex!

I got a ccj against a 1 director Ltd company recently. I hope it's knackering up his personal insurances too.

Most small whackers should be like 100mm layers max at a time with 4 passes in each direction.