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Found 8 results

  1. Cavity trays made using DPC roll are often shown simplistically crossing the cavity at an angle from their top on the inner leaf to bottom on the outer leaf. In reality, even if you try to run the DPC material down the inner leaf before crossing the cavity, you will still create a void behind the cavity tray that will end up uninsulated: Is there a way to insulate this void or is it a matter of trying to keep it as small as possible? Preformed corners and stop ends all seem to adopt the shape on the left and so will create quite a significant cold bridge. I'm using blown bead insulation. There is no route for the beads to get between the gas membrane and cavity tray. Also I wouldn't want the pressure of the bead blowing to dislodge the cavity tray.
  2. We're using Thermabeam rather than beam and block, but the compressive load under the supports will be similar. As there are concentrated loads, do I need to use a specific type of DPC? What DPC do people use for beam & block beams to bear directly on?
  3. The NHBC guidance documents show the outer edge of the cavity tray DPC going past the edge of the lintel (see below). I've not noticed this done and have seen it trimmed back from the edge, for example this video. What did people do themselves here? I'm not sure which presents the greater risk of capillary action drawing water into the cavity under the DPC of the cavity tray?
  4. Could someone advise me on the correct procedure for overlapping the dpc on my extension. The house dpc is one brick below floor level. 1- Do I / can I, use 300mm dpc as a cavity tray from the extension floor level down to match the house dpc level (one brick) if so how many weep holes should I provide ? 2- how do I tie this in with the house dpc, do I need to chase very far in to overlap extension dpc and house dpc? 3- How should I approach the virtical dpc/starter kit, how far in should I chase the wall etc. Many thanks in advance! I can post pictures if necessary.
  5. So it seems I have missed the fine detail on my vehicle garage doors. Brickies have constructed the reveal with a cavity and closed it by returning block with insulation strip and dpc in the same manner as a window. The other day I was gazing in thought at the house and realised the sectional garage doors will be fixed internally to the inside blockwork skin. What then would I do with the reveal:- - leave as is and plaster over to internal skin (door face) with the dpc in place. Would dpc still be effective? - remove insulation and dpc and close cavity completely with block, what then do I do for dpc to stop damp spread internally with a 215 mm internal leaf. Some pics to help hopefully. Thanks in advance.
  6. Just about to build the wall connecting our house to the piggery. The wall has a full-on foundation, piles and all (for which there is no need, but thats another story) This is the junction between the house and the wall. You can see the DPC and radon barrier in the house. The wall hasn't been poured yet. (empty Durisol blocks) You can see the EPS300 butting up to the Durisol block. There's a 100mm + gap to make up the wall to the house DPC level. As it's a garden wall, there's no need for the horizontal DPC is there....? But should I run some DPC vertically between the house and the garden wall?
  7. So I have a timber frame with an outer block and render skin. Our external finished ground is going to be level with the slab (including channel drains at every opening). MBC have installed their DPC under the sole plate and lapped it down to the ring beam that supports the blockwork (see image below). I think I've gleaned that standard practice is then to add a second DPC 100-150mm above the external ground level and lap it down onto the frame DPC. Does that sound right? However, where I'm confused is where to put the weep vents? If they go at the bottom then they will be blocked by the external ground. If they go at the higher level then the lower section could just fill up with water. I'm beginning to to think I've got this detail all wrong?
  8. A bit of a spinoff from my other thread. I am replacing a back galley kitchen in a 1900 terrace house due to damp over a decade having stained the back of 2 base units. Date is approx 1960-1970 (based on different bricks from house and knowing when my local council did grants), so probably a mix of solid wall and cavity. The plan is to strip out the kitchen, and do some protection against what I expect to be rising damp ni the walls. I can see 2 options: 1 - Strip plaster at bottom and Inject DPC. 2 - Do not strip plaster, and attempt to seal with eg "Damp Seal". My inclination is to do both 1 and 2, but I will not have the option of leaving the walls exposed inside for more than 24 hours to dry out as it has tenants in situ. I get a clear week to work but more will be awkward. Potential problems: 1 - One wall is external, one is party. Are there difficulties injectnig a DPC into a party wall? Do I need to do a PWA notice etc? 2 - I would like to insulate the external wall as much as is practical, but what is the method? I reckon I can lose only perhaps 25-30mm off the kitchen width, and I really don't want to take it all back to brick even on one side. Can I bond PIR or PUR backed plasterboard directly to the existing plaster? Any comments are welcome. Ferdinand (Aside: may be off line for a bit due to antipodean holiday, or may check in if the marsupials are boring).