Oz07

Detail while fitting a new bog. Poshest tradesman around!

Not to hijack but i'm planning to use 10mm in a renovation scenario. It's a gravity fed system. It will be swapped over at some point to mains pressure. Is 10mm asking for trouble or will it be fine while on gravity? I assume if it works for 1/2" copper it should work fine for 10mm

Tanking east but bit messy. What do the hardibacker boards rely on at joints, internals and shower tray? Ct1?

Because these are fibreglass will it do away for need of liquid DPM too?

What about accomodating the different floor level between rooms (used to be 2) Any recommendations on floor drain?

Cheap vs expensive

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F382400171129

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F372506784497

What about the trap and gubbins? Any reccomendations for a decent make

So online some of these channel drains can be had around £50 with others from recognised names coming in around £200. What's the score?

sides cut longer then notched at blockwork on bottom. Creates a drip

Labour usually more expensive in summer as supply is shorter

Does the novelty wear off after a week?

Can we see the bikini model

Thanks for replies. Will be mine yeh but not forever home. I always thought a tray was just neater less to worry about. The more I think about it though I'm leaning towards floor drain. I've got to rip existing (25/30mm) screed up in shower side of room anyway. Was previously two rooms and floor not level between them. I've also got to break out some concrete to get a drain in regardless of which option I go with as currently solid floor. I suppose if I go wet room style it means I'm deffo having tiled floor as opposed to vinyl planks etc If I rescreed at 30mm ish bonded to concrete below am I okay to liquid dpm on top then tile on top of that? No doubt there are adhesives suitable for on top of liquid dpm?

anyone out there...

Can brown be used below suspended floors with no light then? I've used befits

Boxing in the kitchen could work really well and leave means of access if you're clever about it. You could even have a bulkhead built which comes down to top of standard wall unit height. Perhaps sticking out more with some downlights in. Its the route I would favour. Especially as you seem to have a full bank of wall units.

Got a bathroom to renovate in a bungalow. Screed is coming up and being re done. Drain has got to be bought in for shower as presently over bath other side of room. Bearing this is mind i'm trying to weigh up pros and cons of shower tray or shower drain. Tray seems a neater choice in terms of fit and forget, no tanking floor etc. I'm just thinking though I could put a shower drain in centre of where I want shower. I've fitted the Mc Alpine ones before and they go into top of 4" waste. I could get this done and ready for screening. Whereas with a tray i've got to choose tray, locate drain position, get plumber to first fix ready for installation of tray, then screed and have tray and waste fitted. Am I missing something or does this sound harder work than just a floor drain. So whats the pros and cons and why

Providing the pipe is low enough below sub base don't worry about pea gravel not compacting. You will compact your sub base above the pea gravel and will spread the weight. As been said could backfill with clay but you want surface water to be able to migrate down into pipe? What about 6f2 for the main fill with a no fines material for last 100mm below path. Type 3 or whatever that is.

Crack on. Let bco have a look before backfill

Permission yes but this could be indirect if neighbours pipework currently only serves them. Sounds entirely desirable OP. If i were you I'd be concentrating on making sure you have a legal right to run drains on their ground. The work is the easy part.

I want cheap and cheerful

What's best to seal my new garagefloor with? Apparently pva reactivates when gets wet

10/10 would employ