dpmiller

yes, but there are only two wires and you can adapt or extend as you require, just pay attention to the polarity

it's just two wires though.

I wonder if being powered ON all the time will actually slow response tho- even with no flow or energy input aren't they going to close down to try and maintain a deltaT? How will they then respond to a very slow rise in supply temp?

I've recently bought a Cool Energy 9.5kW unit and it was easy to instal and has a pretty intuitive controller. Temperatures can be set freely for heating or cooling...

but when did folk become so combative and thoughtless? Didn't seem to be an issue when *everyone* lived in rented terraces with outside loos... and don't presume everyone in the countryside is neighbourly.

^ yep more of the green or reddish-brown algae over here it seems.

what kind of "sound insulation" is it presumed to be?

I dealt with World Heat, very accommodating.

And caution here, some of the cheaper mirrors don't have an isolating transformer for the shaver socket...

jeez that's a monster for your wee bungalow... jet's either 0.75 or 1.0 but that's quoted at a standard pressure, so the actual recommended pressure varies.

nope.

1 vs 2 ducts is more about flow restriction/noise/ duct length than room size.

your jet will be something like .55 USgal/hr and it's a one pipe system so that all the flow you need. No, a car one doesn't really do it. Your really looking at the balance between CO2 and O2 in the flue gas (it needs to be pretty badly rich before the CO starts rising in my experience) there's a kind of a knee-point in both of the gasses and you can balance them looking at flue gas temperature too. Minimum excess O2 that keeps the CO2 at specced levels, with no CO and minimum flue temps. Easy.

did oil run out when you broke the oil line at the pump? Yes? firevalve is OK.

there are other suppliers of very similar bespoke units that *will* deal direct, too.

Flame size looks good. as to the clag in the chamber, excess air can do that, as can poor fuel quality. the only way to set them up right is to do it the right way- pressure gauge and combustion analyser. That's probably worth the £75 a year as you can blow 10% efficiency up the flue as excess air... But as to this one and it's lockouts? Being a Riello makes it really difficult as the pcb uses a tapping on the motor for it's power supply, but I'm looking at the lockout chart and there are no specifics for lockout w/ NO light so I'd be suspecting the box if there's a clean 50v from the motor. Open the box and look for dry joints.

that's a LOT of rust. Pumps generally are stiff to turn as they have springs inside preloading bits. plus oil isn't compressible...

my 9.5kW unit cost a fair bit less than that.

have a dressing room beside the bathroom?

it'd be worth looking. It would be rare for such a large tank to have only one element, I'd say.

I'd say it's very pertinent. Another angle is that many of the TF suppliers will actively refuse to do a formal quote unless you've actually got planning permission, you mightn't even be able to get a guide price from some until that time. They're *that* busy...

nearest pole looks like 240v so you would certainly appear to be on the end of someone else's transformer and yes, it might need an expensive re-size to give capacity for you.

I'd expect a dry bearing to squeal like a pig as it nipped up. Does that boiler have a sight glass, or can you run it with the baffles out for a minute? You can do a rough pressure set by flame size- as big as possible without actually touching the back wall...

which one were you thinking of?

remember it's a split, doesn't make things easier...