dpmiller

and? any updates? Chris seems pretty knowledgeable.

so what (in numbers) *is* the humidity in *any* part of your house, or outside it for that matter?

all our battening is 35x50

no , set to depressurise. easy to feel draughts then...

so the plastic case is directly on the wall then, the top hangers aren't isolated IIRC. Need to rubber-isolate the hanging points or maybe build a shelf and set it on it, over a rubber layer.

PUT A HEATER IN THE ROOM FFS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I "feel" you still gotta read up on dewpoints and condensing surfaces.

I just went with their cheapest blue stuff and couldn't fault it, tbh.

honestly Clive it's so internittent we're clutching at straws. Pump/ control box/ tiny air leak in the oil line that builds up to a big airlocking bubble? All possible...

both diesel and 2T are designed to be burned and do so with as little residue as possible. 2T is formulated to disperse in the base to lubricate, diesel's additives protect sensitive injection equipment at speeds and loads far in excess of your burner's capabilities. Engine oil, unless it's one of the latest formulations for cars with Particle filters creates a fair bit of metallic ash when burnt...

not all. Half-ish

that'll do. Lash it in with plenty of splashing, it'll mix OK

possibly, but check for an imbalance issue- loose or missing balance weight, debris in the fan. Most rotating objects go through an imbalance period but smooth out past that speed, any looseness in the bearings may exacerbate it .

I found there's quite a big difference between the bigger firms like K2 and Aztech, and the smaller local crews. I can PM you a phone number for our guy if you want.

not quite. Mechanical stats had a resistor in them that heated the bimetal to get it to switch slightly ahead of time. Today's programmable stats have all sorts of rate-of-rise fuzzyness in, and turn off slightly below setpoint as they know there'll be a bit more heat added after the boiler is cut out.

be interesting to see just how much overshoot you'll get with straight on/off control. And how that changes with flow temp too

yep the warmth rising off the floor makes a lower temp much more palatable. but a stat that only switches after a 1c drop and has no accelerator or fuzzy control is going to be hunting massively make/model?

^ chinese clones of those are outstandlingly good value.

Not really, it's only in a week and I'm trying to get some baseline data. But it's only a few button presses to scroll through the current position any time I'm walking past the plant room...

some numbers from mine- which has a variable speed fan, tracking compressor load. At Tamb 4c (measured at the rear of the unit) the coil can get down past-2c. I've set defrost to start at -2c, a little colder than the factory setting. Just before defrost started it looked like this: a thin hoare frost over the whole coil, no obstructive solid ice. By the time the unit went through it's processes- fan off, ramp down compressor, change direction, ramp up, repeat, about seven minutes had passed but the coil had de-iced in half that.

how do you work that out @SteamyTea? the coil will be much cooler than ambient, it's how it works...

you'll get return business and no badmouthing too, Dave. It's not so bad really...

Been playing a bit with the defrost settings on mine- the start of the week was socked-in-cloud wet and around +2c for a few days. Probably about as bad as it gets... But i was able to reduce the duration and end temp a fair bit and still get a good defrost and clearance of water. The steamy puff is much reduced.

I know it shouldn't matter, but have you tried reversing the pipe sensors?

generally one 75mm duct will flow enough to the average room, running two ducts to each plenum offers increased flow or reduced noise, as required.