dpmiller

most modern TRVs are reversible so you can put them either end and orientation

do these mixers have one or two knobs?

Where exactly in the UK are you? Difficult to cite the Regs if you don't know which version...

depends if the PRV/ safety group was fitted correctly.

that opener looks mightly small for it's location, if it *can* move that far over?

^ that's a rubber waste compression, not metal olive

have they moved then? They certainly used to be in a part of the UK...

Do Beam sell onto the mainland?

Even tho none are set, try reprogramming them to zero- put in a value, save, then put in midnight times again. Just in case something is corrupt in the clock gubbins

"500 litre baffled water tank" eh?

Have some experience with Parkside grinders and in general they're great with one exception- the new-ish brushless 20V one. Very little torque, the wheel just stalls under protection any time you force it. Keep the revs up and it's fine. Not recommended...

Zoot, if you can't show us the heat-loss calculations that you *should* have in your possession and quote the model number of the indoor and outdoor units, then it is impossible to answer why the current system has no buffer. If you don't have the heatloss document (and btw no-one is expecting you to create or understand this, that's what you've got us for...) then *that* is surely something you can ask about as it was AFAIK a requirement of your Grant?

Give the nice folk at Schiedel NI a call, I think they do a Protect Box for this kinda thing and should be able to spec the whole system.

Kinda, I used the configurator that was available at the time then I bought mine from Plugin Solar. We had a scheme in mind, but when setting the trays out on the actual roof it became apparent that they were too tight to the valleys to flash and mount correctly and so we re-jigged to put two panels on a different face which then required purchasing a couple more bits of flashing. But the move actually suits us better in honesty as we retain production later into the evening now (but at the expense of peak output).

Well that's not correct. You don't need 100 screws, 5.5m of foam strip or 5m of Rooflex for *each* panel But will you not need side flashings, regardless of using the Rooflex for top and bottom (if that's what you're doing)? We went with the proper top and side trims and Rooflex at the bottom...

so what does your £98/ panel include for GSE?

Midsummer are still showing individual items

as this is only a tiny cottage with a few rads but high heatloss, should we not re thinking about the system's capacity during defrost, more than just heating power?

there are also boil-prevent thermovalves available if the boiler has suitable connnections. Some require a cooling coil inside the boiler, others are a double valve that injects mains cold water at the bottom and release hot flow at the top simultaneously. Our Bronpi stove was specced with one of these: https://woodmanstore.com/product/two-way-thermal-release-valve-regulus-dbv/

careful nothing falls into that open manhole, it'd be a b*gger to get back out again as you can't climb in without removing all the airlift gubbins that's bolted in...

drill it through but have one of these? https://www.celticwater.co.uk/leaf-catcher-downpipe-leaf-trap/ or https://www.celticwater.co.uk/leaf-separator-compact/

We were/ are in the same situation Ian- bordering the 1% and 5% lines. Local BC made no requirement so we chose to just go with membrane- if anything *does* rise and escape it'll get blown away

What is the level of radon risk locally- do you actually need a vent or is a barrier actually sufficient?

am I the only person that downloads and reads manuals while doing due diligence prior to purchase?

where is the massive expense in MVHR? Or have you not put ducting in already at this point? If you've built airtight enough I wouldn't be so sure just having a window open will actually give you the ventilation you require; gotta have crossflow and then you're into draughts...