dpmiller

Are all the fittings you've tried BSP? Might be worth trying an iron BSPT fitting in, it could well go in better and if necessary will massage the thread slightly. I wouldn't risk a tap coz if it actually *is* a different thread you'll possibly scrap it...

^ more normal there, @bassanclan

So that's a low voltage switch and you can only switch the output of the driver with it eg the driver is turned on 247.

Any chance it's 7/8" BSP as used on old outside taps?

the proper top flashing laps onto the top panels

how do you how much it cost?

On some, the pump is under PWM control to help achieve the dT

edit looking on Streetview it would appear that the boundary is halfway between each property (except for no.18 which uses the gap as the driveway to a rear garage). Would it be worth knocking the door of one of the other neighbours and asking them how it works for them? Try searching planning docs for the other houses as there might be useful drawings (side porch between 16 and 18, and again 30 and 32 for example

so who owns this alley then?

how does the boundary work between the other similar houses?

so they are barring you access to your property? Straight to the Police in this case.

what exactly does that even mean?

Vibration isn't just the stuff you can see or feel. There's a compressor being driven at a nice 150 or 200Hz, just right for a hum travelling down the pipe.

yep.

Why does it need court? If the boundary is *actually* some distance out from your wall they must have trespassed in order to fit anything to your wall and you are at liberty to remove same. If you can confirm that the boundary is a metre out (or whatever), let THEM be foolish enough to try legal action...

that'd be a good trick with check reveals

why not Wilo?

or cheaper still direct from China

Jeremy Harris had noise issues IIRC. As far as I'm concerned, if the unit is on flexi-feet of some kind then flexys are a must.

In the picture with the garage door, where exactly *is* the boundary and has this been confirmed by a mapper?

the insulation was just as a soft packer to ensure the slab was clear of the wall.

ours sits on the back step and I slipped a strip of inch EPS along the wall before the guys poured, for isolation.

we run a TS but with the heat pump on a coil (so no massive amount of glycol needed). I've it configured to have all CH flow passing through the coil as a buffer, and the tank heated farther during the DHW times. The CH can therefore run off diverted heat from the PV as well as from the boiler stove which is plumbed direct to the TS. My observation is that you can slurp heat out of the bottom coil of the tank quick enough that the bottom of the tank goes cold. Are you sure your scheme won't suffer from stratification and not actually hold as much heat as you anticipate?

I think I just uninstalled, cleared registry entries, and put it back on again?

next would be to check the connections between the mainboard and the internal display, I'd guess. Power off first! and if you can isolate the internal and reconnect the remote one, that'd be next (sorry it's a while since I've had ours apart and don't recall how the front display and mainboard connect)