dpmiller

people keep saying this, anyway.

what size is the installed cable for the cooker?

we're doing the E7 ASHP/ boiler stove combo too, and this year I'm trialing using the immersion diverter towards the end of the E7 period to get some extra heat in the TS without troubling the heat pump with excessive defrosts. I've also increased the room temp a degree to charge the screed a bit more. Stove isn't fired every evening but when it is, 3-4 hours makes for a cozy room to watch telly in and adds about 15c to the TS

why?

where do you live- Beiruit? The Bronx?

90deg chromed pushfit reducer

while you can certainly get drill bits with a 1/4" hex mount few are for masonry. Bosch Multiconstruction bits or similar will do it, but as you've no hammer action to assist it'll be slowish going https://its.co.uk/power-tool-accessories/drill-bits/multi-construction-drill-bits/ or here's a yellow option if you prefer https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dewalt-Multi-Purpose-Pieces-DT60099-QZ-Shock-Proof/dp/B01JYO15B0/

in that particular section, wouldn't the steel lintel be acting as firestop? up the sides of the window, or if using a concrete head, would be different...

pictures of the manifolds? and what are all the wires on the RHS connecting together to? what thermostats do you have? there's at least three zone valves, two pumps, and a buffer. That makes around eleventy million different options... And yes, get some insulation on those pipes. You're wasting a shedload of heat there and it sure won't be helping you get everything up to temp..

photos of equipment and display/ controller will help us help you then.

are there two setpoints, and do you have two mixers and manifolds?

if you've wifi there's plenty of simple automation out there. I got a few cheapo zigbee TRVs recently and they're very good, yes you can override them locally, but programming and resetting on the app is simples.

the swan neck will come out, it's got a grey rubber seal around it so one way or another will break free

I'd be surprised if your screed was cooling that quickly. Ours is around the same thickness, and takes the whole E7 period to fully charge with the downstairs not needing any more heat gain through the day. Warmth is certainly obvious to bare feet until noon or so?

3M VHB trim tape as used for side mouldings and the like on cars. Not the cheapest, but guaranteed to work.

yep. DI and RO water can eat through some metals, even certain grades of stainless. Lab pure water systems use only plastics and high-grade stainless for this reason, we don't want any trace metals in the water...

you'd need to be using DI water else residues could cause tracking over. Then, you run the risk of pure water tarnishing componentry...

I wonder if these stats have an accelerator (heater/ some AI copy of) that's massaging the sensor to improve response?

yes they work. I put the manifolds on a slight slope (same with rads) so the any air tends to move up and along to the end where the bleeder is

you've not seen one, or there haven't been any?...

it takes our unit a fair while to ramp right up to full speed. Around 10min at a guess, as there's a period to begin with where the pump alone runs.

Funny, I've been reviewing last year's data and comparing it to now, myself. We've got the woodstove now which adds flexibility. A pleasant fire of an evening adds a considerable amount of energy to the TS. Whilst warming the downstairs directly, it also means there's enough heat in-the-tank that the upstairs rads can warm without the ASHP being demanded every time. I've increased the setpoint of the downstairs thermostat by 1C and started it a bit earlier so it's actually running and demanding heat by the time the E7 period starts. That extra bit of energy into the floor really stabilises the whole-house temp. I've also taken a degree off the overnight flow temp. I'm running the immersion diverter on timed boost every morning just before getting-up time for 30 mins. The heat pump is working noticeably less hard and there are far fewer defrosts

colours- red/white vs white/red

I bought a Makita- cloney one off Amazon a wee while back and it has a (manual, but nevertheless...) oiler. Very impressed so far. Recommended... https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0B4J2BL3T

yep, the two manuals on Grant's website are next to useless. There a couple of chaps on here with a bit more info so hold tight...