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  1. Thanks for the ideas everyone. Maybe I'm not understanding this correctly - why do I need a short PB screw? I can see how horizontal battens would help generally but what to do for the window reveals? Normally a batten would go right where the strap is such that the PB for the reveal can be screwed into that from the side? Maybe I just need to put a batten down each side of the strap, then shave 3 mm from another before putting it over the strap and screwing it into the sister batten from the side?
  2. We have several straps fitted to the studs in our timber frame build: The straps are about 3 mm thick and do not cover the full height if the stud. Obviously, service battens and plasterboard won't sit flush if fixed directly over the strap - if it is even possible to do so as the screws would somehow have to find their way into the stud through the straps. What's the best way to solve this problem?
  3. @joe90 the 15mm end seems to be for copper? Can it also be used with PEX/PB? Apologies if it's a silly question - I'm still new to plumbing.
  4. Hello, How would I go about connecting a 32 mm mdpe main to the 10 mm pipework on a caravan? I can see reducers to go from 32 mm to 25 mm mdpe and pipe fittings for 15 mm to 10 mm but can't figure out how to go from 25 mm to 15 mm?
  5. I've run it past our SE and the designer and the recommendation is indeed 3 layers of 45x45 battens: Vertical battens fitted to timberframe studs (or 600 centers) Intermediate counter-battens fitted horizontally at 600 centers Outermost battens fitted vertically again at 600 centers Render manufacturer's guideline states that the render should not be continuous across differing background materials so I think we'll leave a gap between the blocks/renderboard and treat it the same way as an expansion joint.
  6. How do you mix blocks and renderboard on a single wall for a seamless rendered finish? We have the following situation in our build where the big picture window/bifold will have renderboard cladding (green) while it'll be blocks (orange) to either side: The external face of blockwork is 150 mm (50 mm cavity) from the timberframe so that would mean 137.5 mm of battens if we want the 12.5 mm renderboard to sit flush with the surrounding blocks? 137.5 mm could be formed using a triple layer of 45 x 45 battens but that doesn't sound right structurally? Is there another way to do this?
  7. Yes - the build is still quite some way from getting completed and we're looking to have the pipes installed and screeded before winter.
  8. The UFH will be filled and screeded before winter. The build is still in the early stages and won't be occupied for a while yet so freezing over winter is certainly a possibility. A burst water pipe is probably a lot easier to fix than a busted up floor due to frozen UFH! We also don't have the water connected just yet so that's not a risk anyway. Clever - but doesn't that risk getting air bubbles trapped in the system? Nothing - we still need to lay down the system. Just trying to plan ahead. Thanks.
  9. Filling with water seems simple enough (just connect to a tap) but how does one go about filling the UFH pipes with antifreeze instead? Would a simple 12V transfer pump do the job?
  10. Thanks, that's really helpful.
  11. Hello, Scottish Power have asked for: "Please provide and attach a suitable sized backboard (single phase 500mm x 700mm x 12mm) made of fireproof material (compressed wood not MDF) to the wall at the proposed meter location for the termination of our equipment." But I cannot seem to find a backboard meeting those size requirements at any of the usual builder's merchants? Perhaps I'm not looking for the right thing. What do people normally use for a meter backboard?
  12. Omi

    DPM repair

    I've also got some Black Jack D.P.M. that I intend to use to seal the inside and outside edges of the repair. Hopefully that'll be enough. Now the next challenge - I noticed that the builders have cut away the DPM from a few sections where the wall upstands join the perimeter (inner leaf) wall. In these sections, the DPM extends about half way up the joint and the remaining bit is mortar: What's the best way to address this? I'm worried about lateral damp transfer through the joint but not sure much can be done about that at this stage aside from just adding the DPC as normal? Thanks!
  13. Omi

    DPM repair

    Thanks ?? Not really possible to tuck into the slab so will try lapping some new membrane over the tears as close to slab as close as I can and then tape.
  14. Omi

    DPM repair

    Hi everyone, I noticed that there are a couple of vertical tears in our DPM where it comes out of the slab and is meant to lap with the DPC. What's the best way to repair this and should I even bother? Thanks.
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