tonyshouse

Thin insulation is very expensive, cheaper to drop the substructure 100mm and use an extra 100mm of insulation. aerogel and VIP’s are mega expensive, unaffordablly so

Need to be very careful that the whole floor is properly air sealed, most chalet bungalows and loft conversions have bad draughts under the floor, cooling the ceiling below and the floor above , with UFH a huge amount of heat could be lost unnecessarily

Sound attenuators, ridged metal spiral ducts for me. Oversize and run on low speed

I would leave it a year then do it, too much drying out and settling down to get it all perfect til then

Henley box

I would do new foundations while you are at it, horrid if you were to bet differential settlement, extremely likely

Other ideas, maximise insulation while you have the chance. Hundreds not tens of millimetres

Won’t help sadly

I would put slithers every so often between them known as sticks to allow air to circulate, raise off floor and leave for a couple of months if in a heated space, longer if I heated and clamped and weighted but allow air to circulate with them restrained nicely, five clamps

Take it down!

I hate stepped flashings, soakers are essential, a straight cut with an angle grinder slightly up hill into the masonry caves lead and less waste too. https://www.dropbox.com/s/93ov68omfwzd00v/cover flashing.JPG?dl=0

Ram in strong dry mix if decent gap and flaunch edges i would not use tile adhesive

Ram in strong dry mix if decent gap and flaunch edges

I think that in practice it will be ok , there will be plenty of air moving.

305mm wide cavity 3x100mm batts, they don’t like sliding over each other, crumple, roll up or leave gaps at the corners. the brickies put some in which I had to remove and re do as folded! I banned them did every bit myself.

I tried that but it proved more of a problem, I did slightly compress the blocks of sheets together to avoid that problem

PH is based on average outdoor temperatures in your location over a year to calculate the heating demand, different every day and summed up over a year ————- re my interseasonal store:- No but it is contributing, winter starts mid December and ends at the end of Feb when the sun starts warming the house up again anyway downward heat losses are greatly reduced , basement 19C this year at end of Feb, I do use some heat from a small heat pump down there now though as have family staying and they are not as hardy as me, 19C is ok with no draughts, but when inactive I need a proper woolly jumper.

Insulation thicknesses need to thought in terms of hundreds of millimetres , two or three, one barely cuts the ice.

No but it is contributing, winter starts mid December and ends at the end of Feb when the sun starts warming the house up again anyway downward heat losses are greatly reduced , basement 19C this year at end of Feb, I do use some heat from a small heat pump down there now though as have family staying and they are not as hardy as me, 19C is ok with no draughts, but when inactive I need a proper woolly jumper.

I am on 42kWh/m2/a all in , heating is almost never needed, -3C need 60W, -6C 300W I think I am probably OSB about 7kWh/m2/a for heating but I have difficulty separating getting out HW demand

Sorry no

I sometimes recommend the first 600mm should be insulated. Better plan would be EWI

Best to support the weight of the window on outside skin masonry, I used steel dowels in the reveal mortar beds to carry the weight and then fixes styles in my case to the back of the outside skin. Nothing has moved, I made my own cavity closers from pir or eps

Cut a pocket