tonyshouse

You can get lying down cylinders, and presumably buffer tanks too, easy for an expansion vessel

Terrible! knock them off and replace as planned

We used to do 12:1 ballast to cement semi dry , almost anything will do

I like easy to maintain so if it was mine I would rigid perforated pipes 1:60 fall 1:40 better, yes membrane, pipe bedded on aggregate

Yes, I think that the weight of the glass may have weighed down the casement, the mechanisms are adjustable in lots of directions and I am sutr this will sort your problem. Mine adjust with Allen keys. I have made some very minor adjustments, my windows are ali clad wood

Never seen any problems with internorm, none with mine after 11 years, they have all spares, looks like it is graunching on something, friction stay?

Nail puller and replace every other one glue won’t help, might need noggins to tighten everything up in line with the trimmers

Think about U-value of the wall - then decide

Surround with pea shingle will be all that is needed long term, test before covering

There won’t be a problem even if you get it wrong One inlet and one outlet would be belt and braces approach

Engineer

Interested in their U-value, can you share that number please

Can you dig a bit more under find if there is a pile there, it might be offset a bit so poke for it first, interested to know the diameter

+1for building inspector, lots of could be’s too thin to be footing concrete, could be the top of pile, then the slab on top of it looks a bit thin at about 225mm but with plenty of piles might be ok can you get original plans from the LA - would be worth paying for

I sat my 3g windows in the cavity they were actually slightly larger than the openings and fixed to the outer skin it is nice to have the windows in line with the insulation barrier.

Top course blue, one below same as rest of wall, one below that every other brick would be a header, with snapped headers in between, these would be slightly shorter 30mm between them, giving a 15mm dentillation each side. It would look very similar but be more weatherproof. with frostproof bricks not essential, I would still do it like that

Rebate the bracket into the wall by 20mm, or 20mm eps/xps behind pipe and angle bracket under it, then strap to wall with off cut of electric cable or similar even a cable tie.

Veissmann

It looks to me very much like the bricks used were not frostproof certainly they seem to have ‘spalled’ most likely due to being wet when they froze. sand faced flettons are the cheapest bricks and well known for doing this. ‘Stock’ bricks made from solid clay and fully fired would be my choice. when you rebuild you can stick with the same design and may be able to reuse the Staffordshire blues, they are beautifully frost resistant. Also shiny and the mortar does not like sticking to them. the projecting dentil course could be done not projecting which would look the same by using too shorter snapped headers rather than the two longer ones, this would remove the flaunching that I dislike as it is destined to fail and may well be letting in water that then freezes. I doubt that you will find anyone to do it but lime mortar works well, near me there is a 400year old brick wall with brick capings not even repointed yet and 8 feet high

Lots of reasons for cracks, too dry mix, too wet mix, incorrect sand, too fast drying out, movement of the sub base or concrete, stress cracks, movement of the insulation, thermal movement cracks difficult to tell which you have what will go on top? I can’t have been compacted properly at the edges or it would have fully filled the gap and so yes bits would easily break off for that reason- use better edge protection movement material and quash screed right tight up to it

Correct

Water hammer, it can be caused by the tap washer “bouncing” does it happen only happen when the one tap is turned off.

No, carry insulation up the cavity to seamlessly join with loft/roof insulation closing the cavity in masonry construction is likely to introduce a thermal bridge

I would very strongly recommend fail safe design, for me that means vinyl sheet flooring sealed into the shower waste gulley and coved and run up the wall behind shower wall linings resin is an alternative, blackjack and tiles ate not, they will leak - onto a wood structure, no thanks

I hate parapet walls! Can you knock it down to below roof level? They leak heat, leak and leach water in, gather condensation by pumping it from the house, cost too much to repair - repeatedly