tonyshouse

What tiles or slates are we talking about please?

No ventilation gap needed on walls, ? for small bits of roof there are exemptions for ventilation gap. I have seen no gaps and no problems lots of times add as much as you can between rafters, fill walls then 80mm sheet insulation under rafters and plasterboard , as much as will fit into the window without covering the glass bead

Sounds all wrong to me, are the drains partially blocked or bits missing from the traps?

Wet plaster for me every time, insulation in the cavity - on mine was 300mm

Sent PM

Unless your SE will sign off something smaller

Just apply

If you go pre app, then the determination date disappears and they can take as long as they like to come to ad decision all round my area. So I never ask for advice just apply, how can they so no when there is one at the other end of the same street

Manufacturers don’t pay double for anything, they are out to protect themselves and get away with the unnecessary, I hate waste and doubling up how long before they ask for a double dpm?

Semantic question, should it go on top or underneath the insulation, I always put it on top arguing that there it would act as a vapour barrier too, whereas underneath it could actually collect condensation if it got below dew point down there.

I think that it would drip clear of the sill

I would tip the lead up, undo the fixings, lift off the roof panel, add thin ply sheet on firing pieces to give a 1:40 fall away from the house , then replace panel. Likely have to trim the upstand

Flat roof needs to slope away from the wall!

I like low temperature spectrum warm white lighting - wish they would use it for streetlights bikes and cars

Therein lies one problem, rarely fully filled, leave a gap between the soffit and the wall plate and all is lost air from outdoors in between the blocks and plasterboard gaps around joist or beam ends will leak draughts into the floor void

Being able to switch things on and off from my phone or I-pad ? and from by the door being able to switch off the landing light from beside my bed from a switch, a real life saver, being able to pretend I am in when I am not by programming lights to similar to yesterday, auto porch light from dusk to 11:00 pm and if there is movement when it is dark

All cavities are draughty and fibre is also use in air filters.

The whole philosophy of cavity walls has a basic flaw in it and we are having to live with the energy use and comfort impacts of going down thar route. Design is important and as a nation we have got it wrong and won’t admit it or change. But why?

Here is some info on the problem and possible methods of rectification, I am working on innovative methods too https://readinguk.org/draughtbusters/going-further/dot-and-dab/

An 18” fireback will fit in but you can break out the brickwork surround and fit a 24” one I think , I like with fire clay throat pieces it would also be possible from the look of it to use it like it is - possible little repair low down at the back using fire cement after cleaning it up

It does not sound like stainless steel if it is corroding, it it galvanised steel?

I have seen these problems a lot, sometimes due to using too long screws or not using an application gun my remedy is to put a new fixing in next to the problem, oversink the problem one or remove, refill, onetime is fastest 29 years as a builder only ever used 30mm plasterboard nails on ceilings . Very occasional poppers on my own house three only I did retire nearly 20 years ago

Fibreglass quilt ?

I can see sips sagging, even breaking ?

m2 of wall minus openings x60 +10% some brickies are very wasteful, I make them use both halves of cut bricks and turn broken bricks into cuts ot halves. Seen 20% waste on big sites blocks same but probably have to order whole packs of both bricks and blocks