tonyshouse

Leadwork for the blue arrow, soakers/secret gutter and cover into diamond cut slot above water line

No studs, no air gaps, sheet material is best either composite or stuck together on site as it goes up. Composite is easiest and quickest but more expensive. should start with a target U-value and go from there i use fixing foam and the next day six insulation fixings per sheet belted well in

I can’t see what the tape or membrane is doing. It is just as easy or difficult to fix ply to the window as it is to fit the window board to the window, are we on wet plaster? I would have had a window board slot in the frame to mark it easy to fit, could glue and pin on a thin bit of wood or screw a steel 10mmx10mm square rod on abs sir windowboard or ply on that are reveals blockwork?

One a band for me - control cost from the outset. I used to run a building business and made a profit from doing what you propose but it isn’t easy and easy to finish up over budget

Separate lintels for me every time inner and outer alternatively check lintels which leave room for insulation in the head.

Look online for the instructions, likely similar to these https://youtu.be/LHuwCan0ZvI

Oil of peppermint well puts them off

Are we talking humidity, relative humidity, absolute humidity, indoors or outdoors heated or unheated, time of day or night?

Disconnects the instant the grid goes down

Forget ufh , for fast warm up insulation on top of slab , for comfort other water round, there are bigger risks to the structure with intermittent heating and likely condensation hopefully only on windows, you want it where you can see it, ashp can dehumidify . for the tiny office 3kW seems insane! Possible 1kW convector heater on a timer and thermostat, what does intermittent mean in hours per week

They don’t want three stories or future possibilities thereof ?

I repaired a large single garage roof built by a builder in 1919 on his own house, the roof has a nice fall, 1:40, on big joists nine by two and a half with inch x seven inch boards. what he next did was remarkable, a single layer of bitumen felt laid dry no tar, no clout nails with three inch overlaps turned down into a cast iron gutter clout nailed in the face. There was an ornate zinc trim nailed 3/4” back retaining a two inch thick layer of pea shingle over the whole roof, by then full of moss and sedum, the trim was designed to allow water to drain out into the gutter I replaced the roof in 1999, eighty years after it had been installed !

Eps beads can and do deplasticise pvc cables but if this a problem we would be hearing about problems, the idea is that the cables become brittle and loose their insulating properties but you need more than long term exposure to a once touching pvc cable, not enough deplasticisation ever happens.

Technically yes, in practice not a problem.

That would insulate but not really close the cavity, if I were having it done I would stuff the top of the cavity full of rockwool first as above.

That’s two so far then, thx ?

Shall we go for 100,000 signatures and get it outlawed by parliament ?

Traditional but use roller, plenty of smaller sizes available mist first, then caulk then two coats , hot potato is I do edges first, usually with a mini masonry roller to within 5mm of the edge if not another wall. with a brush second, then immediately roller the panel, ceiling or wall

I would use rockwool quilt stuffing it in til no more wants to go in

I think roof mounted systems on houses can come under permitted development but anything else need planning permission

Good idea, I might consider extending it 300 or even 600mm above that in a wedge , full width at the bottom of the plate reducing to nothing at the top, any membrane running over it. Bit tricky to cut wedges

Mine are engineered larch but Ali clad outside and remain fully dry.

The cavity is what I call an ‘in house winter cooling system’, full of draughts, cold, allows convection and even if you seal the top, still very likely draughty and cold.

Is there no cavity insulation in there at all? best plan might be to thermally line the gable wall internally joining up with the insulation barrier in the walls and ceilings

I worry about the sole plate getting cold. Were it fall below dewpoint I think that condensation would form on top of the dpc! Which is the analysis would be useful. there are ways of mitigating this problem