tonyshouse

I have used lots of Boulder ones, no problems, well one was fitted upside down bu builders contractor and unsurprisingly leaked, quiet and variable speed

I have dug trenches that deep several times by booking inspector for lunch time and concreting them in the afternoon. DO NOT GO DOWN IN THE TRENCHES

The coping stone must be going to leak, no flashing , no seal, looks like no drip either.

UGLY! And looks to have been leaking. What is that stuff under the lead and how far does it go up behind the lead?

Zero Vat on new build and lower maintenance for years to come, even decades if you design in low maintenance lower or no heating bills - plenty enough up sides to demolish and start again

It will be a lot quieter and you will save energy too

Normal is two brickies, one labourer, a hot labourer can service four average brickies. On day rate I would look for above 500 bricks a day can work to QS rates per m2

Dig a proper drain?

The horizontal force needs to be resolved, f = m x a . It needs to be zero otherwise things move you may need a ridge beam

Silicone outside only, you want water to be able to escape inwards

I wouldn’t use ply ?. 600mm c/c ss capped pins look nicer than nails, gutter brackets can help too

Re Ferdinand’s blog changing supplier doesn’t save any energy, may save money, and spending that on energy may make house warmer but still not saving energy. LED bulbs save electricity but the building will be cooler without the heat formerly produced by the luminaries, relevant in the heating season. I like it overall though.

Suspended floor is likely very air leaky and is uninsulated so likely to cool the house 100mm loft insulation is inadequate, 400mm minimum. empty house will get cold especially unoccupied - let the sun in as much as you can search for draughts from under skirtings, socket outlets, under window boards, pipe boxing’s, under bath

Think , then set target u-values, air tightness, energy demand

I would dig a hole both sides and smash out blocks and bricks to concrete level, lay pipe, build in lintels and blocks/blocks on top to match.

Diamond drill the hole, 150mm for 110mm drain surround with foam or polystyrene

300 cavity for me ?. Fibreglass batts, EPS below in cavity, cost effective compared to paying heating bills or retrofitting more insulation later

Aircrete blocks are naff, move crack and have poor adhesion to mortar especially on perp joints i used steel dowels to sit my bigger windows on built into the outside skin reveal central angle bracket is useless if only fixed to the top brick, use 600mm heavy duty once bent strap fixed bottom middle and top to the masonry or a plate but plate would be a thermal bridge

But do not drink artificially softened water

Stagger the studs, mitigate bridging effect of soleplate/bottom rail of stud walls. why two different insulation types likely insurance will be tricky as full fill double stud is innovative.

Water softener or move to soft water area

Sheet insulation u=0.1 best plan remember to leave a 50mm ventilation space above normal loft insulation ie deck does not touch insulation

I have never not been able to use them and used a very wide variety of gutters, what guttering are you using?

Over fascia vents for me every time ?

No need, possibly on internal walls if masonry