tonyshouse

I did mine before wet plastering and at the end still found a few problems on the final test

Oversized joists at 300mm c/c 28mm wdp ply, fail safe low edge detail, drainage layer on top of torch on felt poor soil, sedum plugs water first year and if very dry second year my one still there on someone else’s house 30 years later , fall was 12 degrees though

I think overcurrent problem on startup

I would worry about noise from plant room, cylinder will likely leak at some point in the future so better sited on the g/f in my opinion which often differs from architects I don’t like beam and block, potential air leakages due to gaps and cracks, both initially and opening up over time. now is the time to build in insulation, very cheap compared to retrofitting it. If you add sufficient you won’t need ufh upstairs

Yea! But spend your time wisely, decide on what u-value you want and your airtightness target. Design from there. it is always possible to keep costs down and to reduce costs, how fixed on ICF are you?

Where is the outlet? Is there a sluice in case it blocks? puddles on flat roofs are in my opinion unacceptable

https://www.dropbox.com/s/93ov68omfwzd00v/cover flashing.JPG?dl=0

Two acros under ridge lift back into position add some ties

Dirt and dust runoff clean with soap and water, vert carefully scrape paint off using the point of a Stanley blade, if difficult boiling water on a cloth and dab but it will spread

Are you sure that the condensation is on the inside, I get it on the outside at this time of the year, How do you ventilate the house?

I like top filters on supply, extract can have more basic filters, summer bypass is useful, I take my heat exchanger out and replace it with a dummy box. 0 to 100% speed control for each fan is good , programmable is nice and I use mine which has four preset speeds including boost, lots of time slots. noise attenuation, I have EAHP but very low power 60W input, no humidistat and zero humidity problems,

Never penetrate a flat roof, it will leak, actually all flat roofs are destined to leak

We made our own on one project, arrived box smeared round with white cement/yellow sand and carefully filled with concrete , turn out the next day build in after a week they were almost indistinguishable from sandstone ones

They an expensive way forward, the ones near me get permafrost on the panels in the winter from trying to extract too much heat from too smaller panel. work fine , cheaper to run than an immersion but high outlay

Will be ok, be sure it has fully set before continuing

Top secret , sets in ten mins

Bonding plaster cut with a little cement

Planks are better in my opinion so long as ends are sealed ground bearing slab best but not always possible, less heat loss and impossible for draughts in the middle of the house

Instead of beam and block use either in situ or concrete planks

Svara fan can adjust via an app, run 24/7 let it think for itself then adjust if you are not happy, theoretically doesn’t work but does in practice

Unless you are rich don’t do PIV, incoming air pushes out an equal volume of air that you paid to heat , nice to live in but wasteful and expensive kitchen extractor is ok in all cases

I would commission a building physics model to inform shading and danger of overheating, better fo find out first than after it is built. awnings only work when it is not windy how will you mitigate the thermal bridging introduced by the steelwork? Is the insulation barrier outside or inside the structure? beam and block floor can introduce draughts. looks like nice design,

I didnt use cavity closers, they cause too much air leakage and cracking - closed my own cavities without and cracking or air leakage and more cheaply too

Jack the frame up, lever it up and slide dpc in - last resort is to bang slates in as they will act as a dpc

When I did skylights I used laminated bottom pane, then two toughened panes, top one over-sailed the low edge by75mm to form a drip no failures apart from one on installation, laminated cracks very easily watch out for Newton’s rings and puddling on the glass if too flat