tonyshouse

We have done jobs where we dropped the first floor ceiling height a bit, need clever engineer and more difficult to find additional height. regs require 2m at top of stairs can relax to 1.9 but floor joists will need to be 200mm and ridge beam could need to be 250 overall move house is my advice

Double loft hatch for me, fully sealed on both, insulated to same standard as ceiling say 4 or 500mm quilt same u value for hatch arrangement more likely using some sheet insulation top loft hatch can flap upwards, mine has a bespoke counterbalance system

Definitely do NOT use dot and dab

Aerated blocks crack far too easily, move around and are naff in comparison to medium density blocks. No cracks is normal with them.

tonytray is 100% and permanent , not only the joist ends that leak but the blocks themselves, any cracks and those can develop later, joinsbetween blocks, bed joints and joists can shrink and move too.

Verge with no undercloaks or dry verge systems for me, I like 45 degree cuts to the bottom outside edges of slates. No water should be able to track into structure

We used then a lot ourselves and clamped them in with G clamps with metal plates that more than covered the size of the plates. also but don’t tell anyone with two club hammers, one each side, two plates, one each side synchronised banging again with metal plates so as not to do damage

I think thin mortar bed on slips under edge blocks. Don’t forget dpc

Should be OK

Thanks ! 10mm in for a porch , I often use 100mm lead

Also consider maintenance- tarmac often zero, block paving a nightmare for weeds, printed concrete near impossible to repair

Always on the warm side of the insulation

Insulate better then design heating if still needed i did once consult on ufh for existing flat over garage, did ufh above an insulated and soundproofed ceiling from underneath, everyone said it wouldn’t work but it did brilliantly

I hate blinding, I live vb in floors

Plus plenty more on heating bills for evermore if dot and dabbing and literal cold feet too

Not advice but I would ignore other neighbour - lots of people don’t even know about PWA

Slightly taller wooden skirting, some stick carpet on with a nice trim on top as an alternative

Very hot soapy water for me

Wrong! DPC can be flush or poking out

Mechanical fixing for me I built a peg (150mm long steel dowel into the reveal 50mm poking out to sit the window on ) for wide windows a centre support from structure below. Window reveals fixed in my case to ro the structure I hate the idea of combining insulation with structure, a mistake in my book

I would like to see a lead saddle under the ridge tile that abuts the brickwork.

For me comfort was more important than payback. I like your levels of insulation and wish others would do similar. energy is only ever going to get more expensive and so payback calculations will go out the window and lots including the regulators will regret that they didn’t go further with hindsight.

If you are worried you can paint it with “blackjack” to 75mm below dpc making contact with it. Then simply overlap the dpm on that plenty of people don’t?

Simple and cheapest will be a post at the corner. Otherwise an expensive skyhook agree about overheating, that can be ugly, building physics model will likely suggest reducing west facing glass and shading to south glazing

Should be OK, they have been there a good long time which proves that they are ok. Need SE to do calcs and a soil survey for them to work with.