tonyshouse

Yes, screed seems thin, needs pipe sleeves and movement joints in doorways

Very unlikely, be nice but don’t do anything for her

I like eps below dpc - breathable thermal bridge at soleplate can end up with condensation forming on top of dpc? I like the chamfer but it is likely not necessary or fit offcut back in with membrane on the chamfer

I would go 300mm insulation, you only get one chance, insulants are cheap compared to heat losses, no comparison when comfort enters the equation

Give it a wide berth

Inform your insurance company immediately

Continuous ribbon of adhesive is supposed to happen but rarely does

No need to worry as all the draughts will ventilate vapours away as they diffuse or get drawn in ?

Best way is to design them out, I tell engineers where I want the structural steelwork, ie inside the thermal envelope. There is more than one wat to crack this egg

I think that you can go as low as you like except at the top of the stairs where in needs to be 2m once saw 1.5m high bedroom ceiling got all excited as I thought we might be talking U-valves

I am giving you loft storage space safe from mould and condensation with a deck raised above the top of the insulation with 50mm ventilated void, nicely insulated ceilings too

I prefer eps beads to go right down to the bottom of the cavity to keep it all warmer and reduce thermal bridging

No other choice ?

The danger is that you won’t be able to fix it if there is air infiltration after you move in

Yes, it can be a fan in a wall os ceiling, slightly more powerful than a bathroom fan, whole house ventilation is very nice

Then same but use raising pieces to help form a new storage floor 50mm above the top of the insulation , I use 47x50 timber and and deck on top

Then cold air/wind will most likely be able to get into the void behind the plasterboard ?

I would remove the old slates and sell them! Then join new and old insulation in an OCD fashion, no gaps. i would remove the plasterboard from under the rafters, dispose of it, lift the chipboard floor carefully, install 400mm of ceiling insulation everywhere and keep the loft empty of junk

The problem with them is leaks round them and all the other leaks between blocks etc. I would worry about plasterboard on battens becoming a ‘plasterboard tent’ cold air in the void, high air leakages I don’t use poly, usually an air tight membrane, gravity is very good at stopping things moving and once trapped weight holds everything in place if you draw a pencil line from the tray to the airtightness layer in the wall do they join?

Diamond tipped chainsaw for a perfect result, I used to own one but gave it away

Walls will have way too high heat loss. So either live cool as you can upstairs 15 or 16C or spend a lot on heating

What is your construction, dot and dab?

For me if you can’t design it out 1:40 and please add sluices through the parapet

I use oil based paint to seal staining, nicotine and tar go through both oil and water based paints but chellac stops them (knotting compound)

Old gloss paint , two coats then when fully repaint two coats with the original roller