JohnMo

They are designed to provide a fixed temperature for any given flow, winter water temperature are lower than summer, and manufacturers install a flow restrictor on the water inlet to give year round ok performance, an increase delta T is required in winter; due low cold water temp being lower. Flow when inlet water is at its coldest is rubbish compared to summer, the restrictor gives worsening summer flow also. With a flow restrictor installed flow will be down 10 to 15% on advertised rates. However as with most things they tend to follow the path of least resistance, so open a tap and flow is diverted there instead of the shower. So could be a couple of reasons for the rubbish performance Plumbing arrangements giving biased flow to the outlets closest to the boiler. Shower mixer not responding to change of flow of hot water. It should be an adjustable TCV, so manage the temperature set even with flow changes. So flow rate reduces, not go cold/hot. The easy fix on new build, manifold to individual users. For new or old systems Canetis Superflow on inlet and removal of flow restrictor. This give s 30 deg inlet temp to boiler, giving improved flow. Shower mixer that control temperature not just rate of flow for hot and cold.

Ask for a meeting your you planning department. Go over the details with them. This should be just a maintenance issue, once you have listed consent, not a change - so no planning needed

MEV allows multiple extracts to a single outlet. In that case you ventilate the wet rooms and possibly the ones with no other ventilation. The inlet flow would then come window trickle vents and cross flow through the house. Or go dMEV, these have a fan in each wet room and have always running, low energy fans, with boost from light switch or humidity sensor. Put through wall vents (on internal walls) in the unventilated rooms. For this to work you need an air gap at the bottom of all internal doors. You window trickle vents work as MEV. Best to draw your house layout, look at where to have air going out already, where you have air coming in (window vents etc) and then can make a guess at where the air flow to and from, and see what room have no ventilation. Ventilation wants to go across a room where possible.

Been living in house for the a couple months with MVHR, and still can't get over how quite it is. Especially when you go to the toilet, put on the light, no noisy fan starting up, just quiet.

Why not Durisol, they are made in Wales, easy DIY, or they could advise local builders. Come pre insulated and give an out of box wall u value of 0.14. Wet plaster finish will give you airtight walls. They are also have plenty of standard details for block and beam etc. to reduce thermal bridging. With rest of your details and 200mm insulation in floor, an easy to achieve very well insulated house.

Nail or hook are more a regional thing aren't they? Your wife is normally right - and if you do it differently and it goes wrong she will remind you for ever. Are you installing yourself? If so you make the choice, or your wife may do, if you getting someone else to install go with their choice, or the issue is your if the wind come from the wrong direct any any fall off.

Mr Punter, seems to make the best suggestion. Combi boiler £1500 is less installed. An ASHP, will need an ASHP, £2-3000, plus larger radiators (to cope with lower circulation temperature), maybe new piping depending pipe sizes you currently have, you easily eat into £5-7000. This leaves several grand to improve insulation and drafts. Giving you low ongoing bills for heating. Get a low energy house first. ASHP good for well insulated and airtight buildings, they need a cylinder to work for DHW. Really wouldn't want to suggest something not fit for purpose, especially as you don't want a cylinder. A good combi, good showers, a good electric shower, worse than a rubbish combi. Both cost the same to run.

Bleed them

The UFH pump would normally come with a temperature control valve, the different temperatures would be set at the manifold. You just run the system at the highest temperature of two systems. Some things to discuss with your plumber. Although your boiler has a good modulation range, will it short cycle, when several circuits have met their demand (no flow required) and the weather is say 10 to 12 degs. Your demand for heat will be very low. Do you need or have you already got a buffer tank. If you are well insulated, it may not be worth installing weather compensation, we have it, but ended up turning it off, as it started to cause temperature under and over swings. Instead we ended up setting a temp that gave the least over swing by trail and error.

How many people installing, one person can do the narrow stuff, but two is better. The wide stuff, is just wide and more difficult, I went for narrow, because it was more manageable.

Carpet very rarely goes under the skirtings, never seen it. The grippers go around the room, normal a gap between gripper and skirtings. Underlay goes inside grippers to fill room. Carpet is stretched on to the grippers Carpet cut and rolled into gap between gripper and skirtings. Either, no gripper, not stretched correctly, or cut under size. We have twist pile and the edges are tucked under.

Not sure of the regulations in Scotland for internal wood cladding, but the wall and ceiling cladding isn't protecting another room space above or to the side, as the whole house is open plan. But as it's mostly all painted, it could have a fire rating. So my guess stays at wood

Have to say not that impressed, all new wood, use of Durisol for instance would have used recycled pallets that would have otherwise gone to land fill or been incinerated, keeping carbon in the supply chain. That with low carbon cement etc, would of actual got some proper conversation, instead it's a Roberson kit house.

Timber. Do they need to make the wood fireproof, oopen plan one bed house, with mezzanine. Found this on another site The COP26 House is an important milestone in the move towards mainstream use of home-grown timber in the housebuilding sector. This will reduce transport miles and carbon emissions while supporting local sawmillers and growers. The COP26 House is a one-bedroom unit with mezzanine studio, with an internal floor area of 70m2. The estimated guide price to build a home like this is between £1,800 per square metre for self-build and up to £2,500 per square metre, dependent on size, location, builder, and final finish specification

What he said

Why bother fighting, get a battery alarm that talks to the others, job done. As TonyT says, photo, update cert, done Peanuts in the scheme of things, why have the added stress.

Daughter stays in a new development house, with mvhr, but I think the whole development, of several hundred houses, only a few have mvhr, the rest are dMEV, so all most likely declared as ProDave says as 3.1.

We told we had to have a second test once house was completed. Anything other than that was not acceptable and a certificate would not be issued - cannot get a final SAP EPC either until I have said certificate. Cannot get a building completion certificate until I have as built EPC certificate.

The tape you referenced is great for sticking polythene and super sticky with that, not what you are looking for the decking, will not stick very well to wood especially if damp.

All my suppliers have charged vat, unless it was supply and install contract basis.

Some other things to consider Above windows and doors you need a drain slot so if water does get behind the cladding it can drain out. Keeping insects etc out, stainless or plastic mesh at bottom of cladding and at any drainage slots above windows and doors. Page 52 on the below download link has Some details. https://www.gov.scot/publications/timber-cladding-scotland/documents/

A cheaper alternative http://www.cpssolar.net/epages/62063063.mobile/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/62063063/Products/dcie48v1000u1

You can get immersion designed to plug straight into PV, they have to be DC and not that cheap, was thinking if this myself at the start of my build. Just an isolator and DC cables required https://www.zerohomebills.com/product/mypv-dc-elwa-solar-pv-water-heater/

Ours is a Heta Scan-line 8, with soap stone to slow down the heat output.

If your well insulated get one with a small a kW as possible, otherwise you melt. Our room is 6 X 6 and vaulted ceiling 6m high, half a load on min setting will have us opening the windows to cool down after about 10mins