JohnMo

Also worth considering are Coanda effect outlet nozzle, these throw the air several metres, so across a room, clinging to ceiling. This gives more flexibility for outlet positions

BPC Ventilation do a guide. Building regs will state flow rates you need to achieve. Ducting, metal or plastic stiff duct will need silencers between room to eliminate cross talk. Semi flex, connect via a plenum chamber and eliminate the cross talk. Don't go with flexible tube as the pressure loss is huge, so fan run at higher speed to compensate, making system use more electricity and make more noise. Passivhaus institute has some good reading material. The basic things I thought about, keep ducts short as possible, buy a bigger unit than you think you can get away with, as fan speed for a given output will be lower. Shop around. Read as much unbiased info as possible.

It not a CO2 alarm you need, it's a CO alarm.. very different, carbon monoxide is what kills you and produced by burning a fuel - CO2 is what you breathe out. In Scotland you need a CO2 monitor in the main bedroom, but don't think you need that in England. Interesting, Scotland regulations guidance note, specifically exclude the use of combined heat and smoke alarms, as heat alarm are only to be installed in kitchens. If the alarm is battery powered, the battery cannot be replaceable. CO alarms do not have to connect fire alarms.

I think the rules in Scotland and England are different, so where are you based?

If they see, they can take it, I had a motorcycle nicked, with a disc lock on, the bike was retrieved, and they had broken the disc to get the lock off. If you want a cheap shed - how about from pallets, then clad it wood or steel roofing sheets.

If you aluminium covered PIR insulation, you need to separate from concrete, as it forms it forms harmful gases. Aluminum reacts with the alkalis (OH) found in portland cement concrete. When these two chemicals are combined, the reaction produces hydrogen gas. This is why, when the reaction occurs in wet concrete, you'll notice tiny bubbles coming to the surface of a slab. Use a thin DPM to separate.

When you replaced your oil boiler for ASHP, did the contractor also do anything to your radiators, or are they same as we're installed with the oil boiler. It could be the radiators are slightly under sized to meet the warm up time you are expecting, as the circulation temperature will be lower with ASHP. The easy fix is to operate you heating in a similar manner to UFH, that is long operating periods and water low temperatures. The house will loose a set amount of kW on a given day - normal central heating throws big chunks of heat at the radiators for short periods, ASHP, give smaller chunks of heat for longer periods, the kW given to the house and lost by the house is the same in both cases.

Ordered our kitchen, back in June, it was installed about six weeks ago, the AEG fridge freezer hadn't arrived and no reported delivery date, however was offered an Electrolux, same fridge freezer, different badge with next day delivery. Our cooker hood was scratched and have an 8 week lead time for a new one.

I did they same, heels ok, toes cold. In bedrooms I didn't but UFH pipes below the beds, as in previous house we had them below the bed and felt like I was melting in bed

I would beware of joints under your concrete, should the joint fail, what do you do to fix it? A tee and 90 above the floor and run the second pipe to you ice maker

We have a huge overhang above our lounge windows, great in the summer, but we do get solar gain after lunch now, we had the windows open to get some cold (8 deg) air in the house last night as it was 24 degs inside.

We ran our cold water in the concrete below the insulation so the water was alway a good drinking temperature. So may be run the cold pipe at the bottom and hot in the middle

Depends on the floor buildup. Don't your architect or structural engineering drawings specify what it should be. Ours was reinforced C34 above sand blinding, then 200mm of insulation, then bonded cement screed. But no one was supplying during lockdown, near us, so we used more C34 as that was readily available and were using it at the same time for structural pads to hold our roof down.

Review Got the heater, from eBay and it comes with a remote control. A little larger than expected, but ok. You can set temperature and run down timer and change fan speed from low to high, you cannot operate without fan on. The heater will modulate the heater output, once it senses room is up to your pre set temperature. Fan is a little noisy for a bedroom, but if you just want to take the chill of a room, which what I was looking for it's fine. Once the room at an ok temperature then switch it off. Once you select off, a 60 second rundown timer starts to allow the unit cool down before it stops. For under £20 not bad

There are others on this site, that charge the floor via UFH on cheap rate overnight electricity, basically an immersion heater in a tube. Very simple plumbing and low cost parts. DHW, is done in a similar fashion but in a cylinder, in summer excess PV will keep your DHW hot if you install a diverter. Small panel heater in bedrooms if you want them warm. Electric towel rads to dry towels winter and summer.

May be worth getting a magnet and check if magnetic or not, stainless isn't magnetic.

Just installed a gas combi, with thermal store, the thermal store acts as the buffer for the central heating, through a boiler coil. Tank thermostat set at 35degs. UFH uses the thermal store water. The cold water is fed through the DHW coil to an Atag A325ECX boiler which can takes pre heated water. The immersion is connected to PV diverter, use surplus electricity, expect to get all my summer hot water for free. In the winter the combi gets water at approx 35deg so performs well.

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I use gloves for everything now, as a kept loosing my finger print (small cuts and scrapes) for my phone.

For UFH design you download loopcad for a 1 month free trial. You build you house in the software and you can then experiment to get what suits you and the house. If you are not air tight on the rest of the house MVHR, may not be the right way to go. If you are, look on eBay for surplus stock clearance etc, my whole MVHR, cost £2700 for everything. I went for oversized fan units to keep fan speed as low as possible, to ensure noise is as low as possible. Match airflows in and out, in England I think it's 0.3 air changes per hour in Scotland 0.5.

Have a slightly higher demand to yourself, and also running a combi, tried it without a buffer and the boiler just short cycles, so you are going the right way. I have used an open vent thermal store, with the boiler heating the store via a coil and thermostatic switch set at around 40 degrees. Using store as I want to dump excess summer solar PV into it as heat and then use as DHW in the summer. If you can also run your cold water feed to the DHW through a coil in the buffer, this will preheat the cold water and improve DHW performance in the winter.

We had a barrel for burning stuff on, so did my own experiment Put Icycene spray foam off cuts, PIR, Rockwool and glass wool, durisol blocks, aluminium vapour acvl and Pert-al-Pert tube materials on the burning fire at different stages. Icycene and PIR burnt very quickly Rockwool not touched , came out the way it went in. Glass wool, mostly unaffected, sort of matted together. Durisol blocks, become slightly more friable, but didn't burn and stayed in shape. Aluminium AVCL, paper backing burnt away, but otherwise intact, just a bit wrinkled. Pert-al-Pert, plastic disappeared, aluminium core remained intact. PIR, would I use in a high rise or anything above a couple of stories no. I have it inside my Durisol blocks, protected by concrete and Durisol and under the floor, again sandwiched between concrete. Icycene, is inside roof, protected by plasterboard, and aluminium AVCL. This would buy time to escape the building. I have Rockwool in every internal wall, to mitigate fire spread. Should of had in the roof, but 250m2 of roof I would have lost the will to live, installing it. Like all things it a balance of risk Vs reward. Companies exist to make profit, would you really trust any of them - watch the film Dark Waters about Teflon

Just bought one similar, but with remote. Will also report back. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plug-In-Wall-Heater-500w-Mini-Electric-Space-Portable-Digital-Timer-Ceramic-Heat-/133901305662?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

We have two issues 1. Changed the use of one the bedrooms and need some additional heat. 2. Room has wet underfloor heating running at low temperature, but we installed carpets with UFH underlay, but it insulated the concrete floor from room too much. Room temp ok for a bedroom, but not for sitting in for any length of time. Need a temporary heat source as room will revert back to a bedroom in a year or so. Have seen this, but not sure if a load of rubbish or good, only need about 300 to 400w. Anyone used or have an alternative temporary solution. Thanks https://www.dunelm.com/product/plug-in-ptc-heater-500w-1000190124?defaultSkuId=30737374&branchCode=0515&ds_c=Christmas_Heaters_[GOO-LIA+PSB-ELECTRICALS-HEATING]&gclid=CjwKCAjwz5iMBhAEEiwAMEAwGC68C9R_lEL5lStKsf9mfXkq8I79IUi_83djyk6HGVSVFfV2-66O3hoCm-oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is what our instructions said that came with the pump When using pump models with pump housing code 65B (item 9 in Figure 3), use the G1/2 check valve (item 14 in Figure 3) supplied in the packaging. This prevents water from flowing through the pump backwards when any faucet is opened, thus causing damage. • When using a check valve other than the factory supplied one, pay attention to the appropriate closing pressure. • Install the check valve after the pump in the direction of flow, so that the arrows on the pump housing and on the check valve point in the same direction