JohnMo

Just bought one similar, but with remote. Will also report back. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Plug-In-Wall-Heater-500w-Mini-Electric-Space-Portable-Digital-Timer-Ceramic-Heat-/133901305662?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

We have two issues 1. Changed the use of one the bedrooms and need some additional heat. 2. Room has wet underfloor heating running at low temperature, but we installed carpets with UFH underlay, but it insulated the concrete floor from room too much. Room temp ok for a bedroom, but not for sitting in for any length of time. Need a temporary heat source as room will revert back to a bedroom in a year or so. Have seen this, but not sure if a load of rubbish or good, only need about 300 to 400w. Anyone used or have an alternative temporary solution. Thanks https://www.dunelm.com/product/plug-in-ptc-heater-500w-1000190124?defaultSkuId=30737374&branchCode=0515&ds_c=Christmas_Heaters_[GOO-LIA+PSB-ELECTRICALS-HEATING]&gclid=CjwKCAjwz5iMBhAEEiwAMEAwGC68C9R_lEL5lStKsf9mfXkq8I79IUi_83djyk6HGVSVFfV2-66O3hoCm-oQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

This is what our instructions said that came with the pump When using pump models with pump housing code 65B (item 9 in Figure 3), use the G1/2 check valve (item 14 in Figure 3) supplied in the packaging. This prevents water from flowing through the pump backwards when any faucet is opened, thus causing damage. • When using a check valve other than the factory supplied one, pay attention to the appropriate closing pressure. • Install the check valve after the pump in the direction of flow, so that the arrows on the pump housing and on the check valve point in the same direction

Do you have a check valve installed to stop reverse flow?

I went a slightly different route, and used Sarnafil S327. Fully welded standing seam, but not metal. Can be installed by only approved and qualified installer, came out at £70 per m2 with felt underlay installed. We have fully voulted ceilings and didn't want rain on steel noise.

Would you be better having the insulation below the concrete? Wood above the insulation will give very little load bearing if you used for cars later. Would you benefit from better u value for the walls as the building is being heated, your electrical bills could be huge? Consider using a layer of PIR over studs on the inside, if you tape this you could delete the vcl and improve u value by reducing the repeat thermal bridge. Do you need a double skin of osb/ do you need any osb? Should there be a dpc/ DPM at the bottom of the wall?

Today a few scraps/ off cuts from the build. Next trees we cut down a year or so ago, just need to chop it up, and build somewhere to store it, so out with the huge store of pallets we now have and build a log store

Well, 8 degs and wet outside, so we lit the stove. One small load of wood on minimum air setting, we now have the windows open to cool down.

Use soapy water at the joints, if foams you have a leak, if it doesn't you don't

The main reason for using was really airtightness and vapour control, so was applied per instructions and used their tapes and jointing materials. If it adds anything to thermal efficiency that's an added benefit.

If you are adding an airtight membrane and battons, look at something like PHS Hi Therma, which with a service void gives an increase R value of 0.79. Then skip the PIR.

Just made a few changes to the way the UFH is working. Did away with the bathroom thermostat all together, the manifold has self balancing actuators, so went for a simplified scheme altogether. Timer to run pump with and without a call for heat, runs for about 14 hours a day. Only have thermostats (simple dial type) in bedrooms now; to keep the bedrooms cooler than the rest of the house. Only one other timer/thermostat to switch of the boiler on/off. Thanks to the contribution on this and many other threads, I've read over the last few days.

I needed anti freeze in my gas powered UFH as it pressurised during last winter without the house to keep it frost free. The slab was a huge chunk of ice most of last winter. So well insulated, that once it froze it stayed frozen for days. But this has mostly been flushed out now get air out the system during commissioning.

Do you run the UFH all the time, or on a time switch

Great will have a fiddle

Hi after some assistance, does know of a thermostat that can be installed in a bathroom. The heating is wet UFH. Ideally a wireless one, as would be easier to install. The problem I have is, the thermostat is outside the room and I was going to have a probe through the wall. But we moved the bathroom around and I now have a shower the other side of the wall.

That's the anti freeze I used. I had no water at site, so fill with a hand pump, same pump was used to pressure test. So I pre mixed it with the fill water in the Jerry can. To manually fill took about an hour (50 L) RHays 10 bar is what the instructions of my pert-al-pert pipes stated. The risk is at the high pressure, something is likely to fail at the high pressure, not when you have lowered the pressure. Because you done something at lot of times doesn't mean it's safe or less unsafe. I've climbed ladders for 50 years, never had an issue, fell off one this week, it still hurts.

This what Uponor instructions state • Pump up the pressure in the manifold to 2 x the operating pressure (minimum 4 bar, maximum 6 bar) for at least 1 hour. After an initial slight drop in pressure as the pipes expand, there should be no further drop in pressure. Check the pressure gauge during this period to ensure that the pressure remains constant under this period. • Decrease the pressure to the system working pressure, or a minimum of 2 bar. The system pressure will initially increase as the pipes contract under the lower pressures and will then stabilise. If the pressure has not fallen below working pressure after 1 hour the system is pressure tight. • Uponor recommends that the system should remain under pressure whilst the floor is laid so that if any damage occurs to the pipe, the laying of the floor can be stopped and the damage repaired immediately. The floor should be laid immediately after the pressure test. • Where there is a danger of freezing, suitable measures such as the use of glycol-based antifreeze should be taken, using the correct mixture of water and antifreeze solution. However, before start up, the glycol mixture should be thoroughly flushed out of the system and disposed of carefully. Any reason the manifold cannot be installed? Assume the pipes are stapled or fixed down to the insulation. The pipes held unpressurized are liable to be being crushed as the screed contractors walk all over the pipes.

Or get the blow torch out and char them also. If you can see them, so can UV and eventually what ever you treat them with will need to be retreated, with little or no access.

We had ours filled with water and pressurised last winter, just add antifreeze. We used flowmaster antifreeze from Screwfix it's cheap and works. When you install the piping, you need to do an initial stretch of the pipe wall at 10 bar, then lower the pressure and hold between 4 and 6 bar. Filling with air has a lot of stored energy, so if anything does come loose you could damage equipment yourself or others. You will have several hundred meters of of pipe with (maybe 10 bar) 4 to 6 bar in it. Equipment pressurised with air when it fails, fails with a huge amount of force, because the air is compressed and expands, water cannot be compressed, so when you get a failure it is a low energy event. It's not safe I would recommend water and anti freeze, but it's your choice.

Our door has 15mm PIR insulation within it and it gets a U value of 1.0. You could do the same on the internal face and then over clad with some ply and paint.

Practical exercise in what can go wrong with ladders, if you don't listen to your head telling you it's stupid to do something. Yesterday my wife was out and it was raining, so decided to clean the inside of the upper windows of our lounge, approx 6m high. Our flooring is down and it's a waxed finished oak. So moved chairs and nest of glass side tables out of the way of the ladder. The glass table were still under the ladder. Cleaned the upper part of the windows ok and reduced the ladder height to approx 2.0m, proceeded to climb ladder no problems, when at the top, the feet of the ladder slipped on the wooden floor, me and the ladder came crashing down one the glass side tables. The tables broke in thousand pieces, but many large shards of glass remained. Lucky for me I only had small cuts all over my legs and quite a few bruises, it could have been a lot worse if I had landed differently. Back to working today, so can't be too bad. Learning of the story 1. Think, if it all goes wrong where will I land. 2. Ladders and waxed surfaces do not mix. 3. If your head says it's not a good idea - it may not be. 4. It maybe a good idea to have someone around when you are up a ladder, in case it all goes badly and they can call for help. 5. Think can I use an extension pole and not a ladder.

For reference, our panels were on the roof for about 7 months, before being connected to inverter. We had them wired to the DC isolation switch, which was switched off.

No idea what they are called, but all the Slater's here use them (NE Scotland). The support for the scaffold board in knocked into the sarking board under a removed (or not installed) slate. It think they would only work with sarking boards

Go 4G, £35 a month all the data and calls you want, you can even connect a landline with right hub, although you get a mobile number. Doing all via mail order, took a couple of days, and about 30mins walking about the house to find the best signal.