Dave Jones

those are oppressively low. Better planning at the outset can help with this.

it boils down to, do you need warranty or not. if not local authority as they are the least interested in hassling you.

as long as you have a min of 12/13mm /M fall then just make both runs work to the final manhole. May need to drop one a little more or move the chamber closer etc.

2600 down 2400 up

Ive found BC to be very flexible with soakaways, they will let you have some scope to site it if its a tight site.

yes this is probably easiest way nail to the side of the noggins to bring it down to all the same height.

talk to your local tile giant or equiv store they will give you couple leads.

for such a tiny amount barrow it.

something about building that brings out the worst in people.

surely there is a volumetric wagon local to you to save all that messing about.

dont think there is anymore to add.

the difference is a tray has a weeper to allow the moisture out. All i am saying is that's what's required for regs to do the job properly, with diy you can do what you like and your pipe may be fine who knows.

sounds worse than it is, a day with a micro digger with breaker and the old floor will be out. half a day to insulate and dpm then you ready for underfloor and screed.

better off with the digger, you have the wrong size dumper for it. too big. you need a 1 ton, have a look at the muck truck wheeled they are much easier to move than a tracked machine. https://www.sandhillplant.com/ this guy has some nice ones.

used https://www.lightingforgardens.com/ they are very good quality, register with them as a builder(self) they will give you 20% off their web prices.

because it costs pennies to do and can save thousands. You could use the same argument for roof tyvec under the tiles, why bother if the tiles are providing the protection ?

fischer paykal cooler all day long. swanky sw1 pads cant be wrong.

all the builders merchants stock an insulated hatch with a built in ladder for about £80. fits 600 centre trusses.

i agree. Just takes a little thought though. wherever the flue is going o be placed put a 2m tray above to give leeway. It can only help cant it ?

although the provision of a tray during the construction of the wall is considered good practice. The guidance is there for a purpose at the end of the day. To protect the building.

they do, warranty providers though are more demanding.....

no problem. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/ducts-flues-through-core-drilled-holes-.pdf

metal ones on top, try and position it so the tile cuts work at the top. bottom is the stickable flashing so have more leeway. I ran a length of 450mm damp under the top and bottom flashing to belt and braces.

to meet current NHBC regs it needs a tray above it.

what is it your trying to achieve ?