Dave Jones

no this is bad advice, especially for newer air tight houses. Trapping moisture in the house isnt a good plan.

only ever use a 'hybrid roof' when its designed by a firm with PI insurance for you to claim against when it goes wrong. Personally would not ever use a VCL for a traditional cold roof, newly built houses are air tight enough without stopping any moisture from being able to escape. Trickle vents wont be enough.

what vapour barrier are you using ?

problem with these systems is you have to have your floor finished including under floor heating etc before your walls are built as you cant work off them or stack materials etc. Adds more unnecessary hassle to the build. You will have enough without making more!

roof tile, conc or slate, flat then a blue engineer on top ?

no this is bad advice . It will be a layer for moisture to be trapped on. avoid any sort of hybrid roof they all allways bad.

If your outer skin is brick or block what you have proposed doesn’t work brick or block. try 150mm of eps and 75mm screed no need for double dpc just one under the insulation married to the wall dpc is fine.

can see why they didnt batten out the underside of those joists to support it as the insulation wouldnt fit.

there are only two ways to insulate a roof, warm and cold. cold roof is easiest as it needs no vapour barrier as moisture rising through it and dew forming inside it is vented as its open to outside air. warm roof on the other hand has to be sealed so moisture rising up from the house cannot get into it as once it does it cannot get out and you will have mould/rot/mushrooms growing. The main issue with a warm roof is having enough build height as they are a min of 150mm deep usually. obviously in an attic roof you wont have anything like this space available between the trusses so you have to go with a cold roof and copious amounts of ventilation above the insulation via the eaves and ridge.

id make sure to have a minimum of two outlets if its an enclosed parapet. Is it a warm or cold roof ?

pipe a gas supply to it also, they are much better (cheaper) to run than the electric ones.

amazing looking shed, now to brick it up!

bit like putting the 50p's into the electric meter in the 70's.

If the flat roofs are open to the elements underneath why bother with VCL and insulating ? Wouldn't bother with vents either as wood breathes. If on the other hand the space under them is going to be heated then you need to decide on a cold or warm roof design. Warm being far superior.

mains gas an option ?

they 'work' for the elected councillors. Attend the next meeting of the planning committee in person. Our local council is equally useless, it takes a certain type to work for the public sector ......

get your local counciller on the case. even if they issue a notice you can appeal it.

only one thing is guaranteed with hidden gutters. They will block and they will leak.

do you think they updated the maps for next time ?

i dont see the problem here, dpc is working as intended ?

job for your local councillor.

you buy the map from the utility company, they are indicative only.. You CAT scan and keep a record off it. Then if you do hit and damage you can argue your case against costs. Your lucky with electric if it was BT you could be into tens of thousands. http://www.digdat.co.uk/ is a good start.

Can you raise the front of the drive so the water bypasses you from the T junction ? How is the T junction drained, are there ditches or piped ?

grey water pumped chamber. As we all know soakaways are a waste of time in clay ground so it has to go somewhere else, normally the sewer although the sewer companies dont like it.

try www.online-bedrooms.co.uk they can produce a CAD design of your requirements for no charge. Just under half the sharps prices i found and its made to measure.