Dave Jones
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Everything posted by Dave Jones
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Heat pump latest government offers
Dave Jones replied to nod's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
that's ok there are quite a lot of people who believe in a magic man in the sky also. -
can i put a cat flap on an internal door (which is wood and 4 panel)
Dave Jones replied to TryC's topic in Decorating
get rid of the moggy instead. Non native to this country, destroy countless songbird chicks.. -
Heat pump latest government offers
Dave Jones replied to nod's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
ah the sins of the father approach. very woke. maybe worth looking at the GDP of india and China if you think they are poor lol. -
another reason to use subframes, none of that hassle.
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Combi, Storage Combi or electric shower?
Dave Jones replied to Rachieble's topic in Boilers & Hot Water Tanks
what about outside ? -
Heat pump latest government offers
Dave Jones replied to nod's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
personally not 100% sold on the so called 'climate change' or weather as it should be called. I do believe moving on from oil and coal irrespective is the right idea but we should not be bankrupting the country at the same time and do it at the same pace as the biggest users say china or india. Phase out vehicle and mass transit use of oil in next 30 years and then the housing stock by turn of the century. Id also look at removing cyclists from the road network as they are a major cause of pollution by slowing down vehicles. Make dedicated paths for cycles. -
Solar PV and Heat pumps - the economics
Dave Jones replied to MYLOUBYLOU's topic in Underfloor Heating
maybe a batter solution is battery storage and time shift usage to pay very cheap all the time. -
alutrix is the best.....
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not that's its much help but subframes (pre built cavity closers) are much better as they are tied into the brickwork as its built up.
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you dont have a warm roof by the looks, you have a traditional breathable cold roof. Tyvec supro is a breathable membrane and will not stop moisture moving into your insulation. You also don't need a vapour barrier with a cold roof as it doesn't really do anything apart from trap humidity inside the house.
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the point being, how is it going to go right ?
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just to be clear a traditional trussed cold roof does not require nor should have a VCL.
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i would think the walls will be dabbed with boards first then plastered. You will then have a gap where both the board and plaster finish at floor level. Foam this up prior to skirting. same with any stud walls.
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yep rip that lot out and maybe use mdf liner to give more room. They also look better without all the knots. pointless foaming also, save your cash. Could that mess hanging out the ceiling not be moved into the stud by moving it forward a tad and a bit wider ?
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How to drill holes through my external wall for the big MVHR ducts?
Dave Jones replied to Dreadnaught's topic in Timber Frame
chainsaw for a shed construction!! easy!!! -
no this is bad advice, especially for newer air tight houses. Trapping moisture in the house isnt a good plan.
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only ever use a 'hybrid roof' when its designed by a firm with PI insurance for you to claim against when it goes wrong. Personally would not ever use a VCL for a traditional cold roof, newly built houses are air tight enough without stopping any moisture from being able to escape. Trickle vents wont be enough.
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what vapour barrier are you using ?
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problem with these systems is you have to have your floor finished including under floor heating etc before your walls are built as you cant work off them or stack materials etc. Adds more unnecessary hassle to the build. You will have enough without making more!
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no this is bad advice . It will be a layer for moisture to be trapped on. avoid any sort of hybrid roof they all allways bad.
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If your outer skin is brick or block what you have proposed doesn’t work brick or block. try 150mm of eps and 75mm screed no need for double dpc just one under the insulation married to the wall dpc is fine.
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there are only two ways to insulate a roof, warm and cold. cold roof is easiest as it needs no vapour barrier as moisture rising through it and dew forming inside it is vented as its open to outside air. warm roof on the other hand has to be sealed so moisture rising up from the house cannot get into it as once it does it cannot get out and you will have mould/rot/mushrooms growing. The main issue with a warm roof is having enough build height as they are a min of 150mm deep usually. obviously in an attic roof you wont have anything like this space available between the trusses so you have to go with a cold roof and copious amounts of ventilation above the insulation via the eaves and ridge.
