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PeterW

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Everything posted by PeterW

  1. PeterW
    Depending on the details you want you can download them from many sites.
  2. PeterW
    +1 to this @Smallholder This is the issue - it’s only normally hay that gets baled small. You also need to decide if you want wheat straw or barley straw, and the compression rates etc. You’ll need to find an Ag contractor to do this and a farmer who will be happy for you to bale probably only part of a field in this way.
  3. PeterW
    Primer on rough surfaces only.
  4. PeterW
    Legal requirement to make good by a supplier in the event rework is required. It is them rectifying their own problem.
  5. PeterW
    I would start with cavity wall insulation - blown bead isn’t expensive and is a days job for a decent company. I can recommend a couple depending on where you are in the U.K. Then I would look at air tightness, windows and doors and finding the leaks. Finally, look at improving internal insulation but only when you’ve done the first two. What insulation is in the attic and the floor..?
  6. PeterW
    Every joint. Then use air tight tape up to the edges of the tunnel.
  7. PeterW
    Perforated stainless balcony with a T profile edge that comes out the same distance as your protruding wall and then frameless 10mm glass - you may need to put returns on it but stainless corner clamps would work or even bonded glass if your budget isn’t too restricted.
  8. PeterW
    Lots of aluminium tape ..! Rigid or flexi tunnel ..?
  9. PeterW

    Openreach!

    PeterW replied to patp's topic in Electrics - Other

    How did that work ..? Is it 14 days from order or 14 days from installation ..?
  10. PeterW
    You won’t get that out without damaging the roofing - on the side you can get to, you could cut the laths back 3 rafters and expose the top of the blockwork and remove it and then backfill with PIR. On the slated side it will be more difficult. Other option is 25mm of PIR between battens on the inside which will give you a service void too so you don’t need to chase blocks for electrics ..? Then board and skim as normal ..?
  11. PeterW
    If you use plastic pipe they may let you drop that in one go with a slope as long as you put an IC at the top - you don’t want one immediately at the bottom and ideally you want a nice slow long radius bend at the bottom and a sharp one at the top. Use one of these at the bottom to stop any slowing down of the contents. https://www.drainagecentral.co.uk/110mm-Long-Radius-Drainage-Bend-225-Degrees-B5033-B5932 If you used 22.5° then you’ll get 3m drop over 8m run.
  12. PeterW
    EBay is your friend for change of £25 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Emlite-Landlord-Electricity-supply-Meter-MID-approved-100A-Short-Cover-/264926521552?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  13. PeterW
    I use 3-400mm.
  14. PeterW
    That frame and stone is beautiful. You could get a very nice door made for £1200, and that would be more in keeping and you could get a new one with a smaller double glazed unit that will be more thermally efficient.
  15. PeterW
    +1 to this. If you look carefully at the photo you can see the slot I have arrowed You need to put a flat blade screwdriver in to the slot, push back against the spring and turn it counter clockwise. Just do it half a turn at a time as if you go too far it won’t roll back on the frame.
  16. PeterW
    I would suggest the “smoke” seen was a heavy condensation plume from the boiler and not something to be concerned about. It sounds though that the condensate pipe in the boiler may have come loose - do you have any pictures of where the boiler is leaking from ..? It sounds like you’re not entirely comfortable at what you are dealing with though so I would pick up the phone book - where are you located ..?
  17. PeterW
    I’m assuming you’re going to use some forced dehumidification then as that is very tight to be painting on a new plaster. You need to specify you want paint suitable for new plaster and I would hold back on final finish until the wet trades such as tilers have done as you will get marks on walls etc.
  18. PeterW
    The Venturi effect would do the opposite and pull air the wrong way - fans on these sorts of units are tiny. Can you not use a plenum box on the intake and install the sensor in that..? The other low tech way is install activated carbon filters in a pre filter box - should reduce a substantial amount of the smoke. If you want slightly more high tech then build an ionisation box on the way in too.
  19. PeterW
    Is yours the rendered chimney ..?
  20. PeterW
    https://shelly.cloud Probably best to use a 1PM so you can also power monitor and understand the load.
  21. PeterW
    ….the forum has two. They are not calibrated but can be used to set up a system although some BCOs don’t care ….
  22. PeterW
    Shelly can do IFTTT so just hook it in line with the boost immersion on the tank ..?
  23. PeterW
    Or about 500 yds from the sea in 10 years time …. Welcome ..!
  24. PeterW
    EPC and no cavity wall or attic insulation means you should not have qualified for RHI. Essentially this is borderline fraudulent and if they did the EPC then they know this.
  25. PeterW
    How are you measuring this ..? That Alpha pump will struggle to get you 3.3m3/hr anyway so if you think you need that then you need a bigger pump. What is slightly incorrect is the use of the open pipe scenario as a heating system is a sealed system and the return flow “helps” the overall flow rates. Min flow rate for Samsung 16kW is 12l/min - have you read the MIs to get to the minimum flow ..?
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