PeterW

You put the plug in, press the preset button and walk away. It sets the flow temperature and the time.

sadly the data from London shows they have increased emissions and reduced the average speeds of vehicles … if they could have taken up some of the significant pavements etc to put lanes in then it would have worked, but the cycle super highway projects are pretty much a failure. As a cyclist though I agree, they need to do something ..!

Mira mode does it - you can programme the fill and temperature level in the app from memory.

Main cold supply goes to the control block at the UVC and the only thing they gets tee’d off before is the outside taps. Control block has a balanced cold outlet that feeds everything else. That way the hot and cold to all mixers etc is at the same pressure and flow. I prefer to tee off WCs too before the control block so a flush / fill affects both hot and cold but some others don’t like that approach.

Which product in particular ..? Vapour barrier ..?

That’s about 12-14 days effort on local rates, which for a full rip and strip including chasing walls isn’t too bad.

@Curtis just a really minor point - flip the utility layout over so the hot water tank is on the opposite side, make the slider door go the opposite way and then give access to the cloaks from the hallway not the utility. Other than that - like that layout !

Aico - fit and forget and have some great features such as test buttons to test the whole system and silence the alarms etc. Not sure the Ricochet heat alarm is suitable unless you use protected cabling but think @ProDave may be able to advise. Also need to confirm if they are mains wired.

No issue with a PIR but you need to ensure the fan has an overrun timer or humidistat.

Lay it over before the UFH, tape it to the walls so it has a bit of slack then pour the screed (assuming liquid..?) then when it’s dry just cut back the excess.

Use 30-40mm PIR as an upstand. Glue it in place with gun foam. You then put a slip membrane over the top of all the insulation before screeding to ensure you don’t get any between the insulation.

Q2 - will be fine but flow will drop on both outlets Q3 - always, and preferably from the same balanced supply

+1 to this. I’ve only ever used that threat once but it had a profound effect on the solicitor in question …. The SRA is far from a toothless trade body ..!

You’ve got space for insulated plasterboard. Need to get the detailing right on that corner though, especially with steel, timber and blockwork involved.

Right so you will have exact measurements from the frame manufacturer for your windows. I reckon you won’t have too many issues - the only one may be getting the frame but Dan-Wood are now manufacturing in Poland and reckon they can turn around fairly quick.

Why..?? Go with a blockwork skin both sides, get a decent joiner to make you frames for building in the windows and order them when you put the footings in. Don’t go mad, go with a decent brand but standard designs and you’ve probably got a 9-12 week lead time. As you’ve not got planning yet I wouldn’t be value engineering the zinc out, and I think you’d be surprised at the cost tbh.

Ah ok, thought it was the 100-W. They are correct, the 200-W is an order item.

Think you miss the point - that outside rendered wall becomes the inside when it drops below the glazing so it’s a huge thermal bridge. Needs some element of insulation.

The EWC flashings are correctly designed for this sort of installation - you can see how they are cut into the wall with the lip to stop the flashing pulling free. You can’t paint lead very successfully ..! So how is that detailed at the change of direction ..? I can’t see any flashing return round the corner which you need to seal the top of this detail. There is a lot of things that can go wrong here and leak - it needs to be right first time. I would be treating this as two separate panels - the first up to the end of the wall, then a second unit covering the end that is open. Both need different fixing and watertight detailing. Due to the thickness of the upstand you’ve got room to play with a frame system too - that allows you to detail all the fixings, sealing and flashing and then fit the glass.

Ok so that needs doing in 2 sections. The “architect” has drawn something that is only suitable for the enclosed end, the open end will need a full aluminum flashing as there is nothing for the glass to mount onto. You can’t just stick some structural glass compound on top of that rubber coating and hope the glass sticks to it. Have you taken a straight edge to any of that ..? More than 3-4mm out of plane and it will need packing etc. Have you spoken to a specialist and got them to properly survey this as that is not a quick or simple job - a picture speaks a thousand words. Also - where is the insulation in that kerb, and how are you insulating that flanking wall as it’s a big cold bridge.

Here you go - Velux modular long lights. Will do what you want, out of the box design and can also be opened. https://velcdn.azureedge.net/-/media/marketing/master/velux modular skylights professional/pdfs/50405501v11953048010technicalhandbook31.pdf

Telehandler and offload at the road. If you have space to store materials too, you could probably hire one for a week or so and get the bulky stuff delivered together.

@Curtis you’re looking at over £2k/sqm so a decent budget and nothing non standard other than the roof in zinc. Can’t see why you can’t hit that number to be honest.

Veissmann Direct usually have them in stock in the UK - what model..?

Patination oil does work but make sure they also put some on the underside of the lead. TBH there is nothing stopping you changing the design now to a framed design with 3 or 4 panels and a back gutter - if you’ve not ordered the glazing, it could all be modified. Patination oil doesn’t fix your original issue here which is one of the unit design and the glazing type, both of which do need to be addressed before you finalize the order for the glass. I’m assuming that there is a timber fillet/bearer against the wall that is shaped for the glass to sit on ..? How has that been sealed against the wall ..?